Thryth Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 Hello Everyone, I hope that I do not open a heated debate, but was wondering what the story is between metal and resin miniatures. The reason that I ask is that ********** [other manufacturer] sometime releases miniatures in both metal and resin. I like the weight of lead miniatures, and do not see an advantage to the few resin ones that I own. Are the resin ones supposed to hold better detail, or something along those lines? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vytis Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 Its an interesting debate..Resin aggravates me, mostly because the molding process leaves a residue on it that requires a good cleaning, metal only a quick rinse. Even then, my primer doesn't always stick. For larger figures, resin is the better choice over metal (plastic is the best IMO, but thats too expensive for anyone other than GW) simply because it weighs a bunch less. At 54mm, the difference is negligible, and there I think its a bit of a tie. Smaller than that, well I don't think there is an advantage for the painter for metal over resin. Resin probably costs less to make (not sure myself), but I'd take metal every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gi6ers Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 In the smaller scales that I paint, 28-40mm resin definitely holds more detail but at the same time this detail isn't always paintable (try some of Tom meier's latest stuff) For me I like the weight of metal and find it easier to clean up for painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baz Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Well resin tends to pick up detail better and is a lot safer to work with (in the casting stages anyway) and is a lot easier on the moulds than metal. I takes a bit longer to harden but this is balanced out by the fact that people expect to have to clean up a resin kit themselves so you save time on cleanup. Cost wise there's no reason that a resin kit should cost more than a metal one. Weight for weight resin is about the same price as lead and the moulds are made from similar materials that have a similar cost. In fact given that most manufacturers use large expensive centrifugal casting machines to cast metals means that resin should be cheaper. The main reason that resin manufacturers give that resin kits are more expensive than their metal counterparts is that there is less demand for the kits and that they may not sell as many as a metal kit. This just depends on the size of the company. I'm sure forgeworld sells more of one of their resin kits a year than a metal manufacturer of a comparable size sells. In short resin is the better material to work with if it's manufactured well, but whining companies that don't have a very good technical grasp of how to work with the material are pushing the prices too high for it to be accepted as a viable replacement for metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty1001 Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I love resin. Come to think of it I havn't painted anything other than resin for about 3 or 4 month now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritual Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Resin definitely holds better detail than metal and if it is well cast it takes very little cleaning to make it ready for painting. There can be some air bubbles in the resin that need to be filled, but again it depends on how well it is cast. If I can get a resin casting of something a really talented sculptor has made I would go with that rather than a metal version, due to the crispness of detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supervike Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I do like the feel of metal, but honestly, as long as its miniature and my 'subject' matter, it makes me no nevermind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonforge Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 well having worked with both.. as I was casting metal yesterday and resin today Ill make a few compairasons. With metal, speed is the factor..I can cast 500 miniatures in a hour or so..with resin that would take me a week.. resin is relatively slow. From mix to demold time were talking 15 minutes on average with resin and 60 seconds with metal. Resin is lighter weight than metal so the larger the item the more expensive the metal item is to ship over the resin one. Resin holds details better than metal, but metal is more durable and resin is fragile and breakable in thin cross sections. Metal molds last for 1000's of copies, I might get 50 copies out ofa RTV rubber mold before it tears and Im making a new one. Large items cast in metal as they cool and shrink, will get a granular look to them and get cracking and pitting. Resin on the other hand the larger the otem the nice the casting. Small pieces with thin crosssections tend to get small air bubbles in them if not properly vented. Rejects..if its a miss cast metal figure, back in the pot it goes..melted down and recasr. same goes for all the gates and sprues. Resin, if its a miss cast its in the trash can it goes..same for gates and sprues..so your throwing away waste material. The price of pewter had risen to over $8.00 a pound so large objects like big dragons can now cost a fortune to produce and retail price is expensive. A resin cast dragon can cost a little less. plus its much lighter to ship. I like resin, I find its easy to clean up and has amazing details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baz Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Weight seems to be a factor that keeps getting mentioned. Resin is much lighter and cheaper to ship but for gaming models I prefer metal as the weight means they are less likely to be knocked over and damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastman Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Well resin tends to pick up detail better and is a lot safer to work with (in the casting stages anyway) and is a lot easier on the moulds than metal. Other than the heat of the molten metal, it is safer than resin. To do resin casting at anything approaching a commercial level, you need a really good ventilation system, and well-fitted (with a functional organic vapor cartridge) respirators for each caster. There were several kit producers on the garage kit forums who've had to quit casting resin because of sensitivity or allergies to the resin becoming a major health hazard (IIRC, potentially fatal in one case). Resin is also a lot more abusive to RTV silicone molds than metal is to real vulcanized molds. For some resin models, the RTV molds are only usable for 20-25 castings before they are damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stubbdog Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Eastman, I saw your avatar, and was like "hey i dont remember posting a reply to this topic..." Then i realized that it wasnt me and that we have the same av... just thought it was funny.. I got a lagh out of it anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonforge Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Other than the heat of the molten metal, it is safer than resin. To do resin casting at anything approaching a commercial level, you need a really good ventilation system, and well-fitted (with a functional organic vapor cartridge) respirators for each caster. There were several kit producers on the garage kit forums who've had to quit casting resin because of sensitivity or allergies to the resin becoming a major health hazard (IIRC, potentially fatal in one case). Resin is also a lot more abusive to RTV silicone molds than metal is to real vulcanized molds. For some resin models, the RTV molds are only usable for 20-25 castings before they are damaged. Actually a respirator will do you no good. The vapors given off from resin are isocyonite based.. basically like the vapors off superglue.. this is NOT cyonide..thats totally different. The molecules are so small they will pass through any cartrige filter you can get. Ventilation is the key to it. The vapors off resin are actually heavier than air so they sink to the floor level and build up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastman Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Actually a respirator will do you no good. The vapors given off from resin are isocyonite based.. basically like the vapors off superglue.. this is NOT cyonide..thats totally different. The molecules are so small they will pass through any cartrige filter you can get. Ventilation is the key to it. The vapors off resin are actually heavier than air so they sink to the floor level and build up. The organic vapor cartridge is there to trap the molecules - it is an adsorption/chemisorption process, not a physical barrier filter. (I don't just play a mad scientist on TV, I really am one) That's why a real respirator with a cartridge will work and a dust mask won't. (Of course they don't make respirators that seal over beards, so I think I'll pass on the world of resin casting) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberdark Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 i have found that resin does not work as well for me. my piece i just had got a bad spray can on it and when i used the acetone to remove the paint it ended up eating away the face as i slowly rubbed it off. next thing i knew my kraken miniature had no face. grumble grumble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duende Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 Umm...don't use acetone on resin. Pine Sol is better. Acetone eats it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberdark Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 Umm...don't use acetone on resin. Pine Sol is better. Acetone eats it. yeah....i found that one out. grrrr......matty was the one who told me to use acetone.... i knew it....he and dragonforge are working in cahoots to take me down. *uber scratches head and looks around for spy satellites.* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritual Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 Acetone eats SOME resin! I've used it on both Ilyad minis and Hasslefree minis in resin without damage. But, I've never let the minis soak in it but have just poured it on and scrubbed it at once. But, ALWAYS test on something first! ALWAYS! REGARDLESS of what product you use! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty1001 Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 I did say to test on the thread Uber, sorry bout that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberdark Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 and i thought WE had something special... *sobs* i thought you loved me......boohooo....uber puts on wig and runs down the hallway crying.* :laugh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brushmistress Posted October 30, 2007 Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 Umm...don't use acetone on resin. Pine Sol is better. Acetone eats it. Guys don't usually learn that one until it's too late. They've never had artificial nails applied and then tried to change the polish color. Melts like butter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritual Posted October 30, 2007 Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 Aren't artificial nails in plastic? A good quality resin survives a quick wash with acetone, although I wouldn't let it soak in it. But it's enough to get the paint off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brushmistress Posted October 30, 2007 Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 Aren't artificial nails in plastic? Plastics contain resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastman Posted October 31, 2007 Report Share Posted October 31, 2007 plastic =/= resin yes, many plastics will dissolve in acetone. Polyurethane resin (the popular one for resin kits) is fairly resistant to acetone. I threw a scrap of resin from the last kit I prepped into acetone last night. Still undissolved after nearly 24 hours of soaking. (I don't just a play a mad scientist on TV, I am one IRL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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