pae Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 Isn't the VMC light flesh actually darker than the VMC medium flesh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritual Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 No, Light Flesh is very light. It's like a mix between GW Pallid Flesh and white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pae Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 Maybe it was my dark flesh that was lighter than the medium flesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzoangel Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Just picked up a number of the P3 paints and I love 'em! Back to the old GW flip top bottles........yeehaar!!!..........it feels like the good old days again. The paint is superb, easy to mix, great coverage, nice matte finish, top stuff. Just waiting for the whole range to come out now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maestro Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Everyone is talking about how wonderfull the vallejo smoke is and a must have. Are you sure they're talking about Vallejo Smoke and not Tamiya Smoke? I have both, and while Vallejo Smoke has it's uses (like mud and rust) it is indead grainy/flaking as you said. I do on the other hand, LOVE Tamiya Smoke. It's brilliant for (table-top) metallics and I also use it for shading white, although in that case I thin it down a lot.. I've also just bought VMC Ivory as I've heard a lot of good stuff about it. Tried it out on some bone and I quite like it. Now all I need to do is experiment with it a lot more!! Another must have: VMC Deck Tan; very light colour with a brilliant coverage over black! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wren Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 I think Vallejo Smoke fever has calmed down a little, but a year or two ago it seemed like it was the magic cure all paint and people were raving about it on many miniature fora and discussion groups. There are a fair number of folks who also sing the praises of the Tamiya clears, including the smoke, but it never got to quite the same point. I like my few experiments with the Tamiya clears, but I'm weirdly sensitive to a lot of chemical odors, and unfortunately it's one of them. Makes me dizzy and queasy for hours. The results are nice, but not worth the cost of my time. ;-> I should probably give away or sell my clears, I'm sure there's someone else who could make better use of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritual Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 I like my few experiments with the Tamiya clears, but I'm weirdly sensitive to a lot of chemical odors, and unfortunately it's one of them. Makes me dizzy and queasy for hours. The results are nice, but not worth the cost of my time. You should taste them! They taste wonderfully! At least the red one, which is the only one I've got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosch Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Also, if you leave them open in an enclosed space you get high sooner or later. You decide if that's good or not - personally I have started to open a window when using them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wren Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Ritual, do you know the taste of all your paints through the happenstance of your brushlicking method, or do you break out a brush to do a taste test when you get a new paint? ;-> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritual Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 @Wren No, it's a result of brushlicking... I know I will taste the paint as soon as I start using it so I don't need to taste it at once when I've bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duende Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 @Wren No, it's a result of brushlicking... I know I will taste the paint as soon as I start using it so I don't need to taste it at once when I've bought it. So what's the best tasting paints out there, Anders? And do they go better with red or white wine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritual Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Personally I think some of the VMC brown colours are the best. But the reds aren't bad either. If I have to pick one favourite it would be VMC German Cam Black Brown. I usually don't drink wine when painting, but the brown paints and plenty of others (dark paints mostly) work really well with a dark ale or stout. Honestly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maestro Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Anders, ANYTHING goes with dark ale or stout... John *who thinks most metallics taste awfull* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritual Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Anders, ANYTHING goes with dark ale or stout... John *who thinks most metallics taste awfull* Aye, fair enough! You surely have a point there, John! :vb_cheers I haven't used metallics since before I became a devoted brushlicker, until a few days ago (but I only tried them out for a couple of minutes and never tased them...). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolfDreamerNZ Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Has anyone tried the Adiken range of paints - I bought a whole set off TradeMe - (like a New Zealand eBay) - and haven't quite worked them out yet...they come in bottles like VMC, reguire a stupendous amount of shaking (they have been settled for over 12 months the owner said) and that's about all I know so far. As I learn more about how to use paint - like thinning to avoid chalky highlights - I'm sure I will get more use out of them - but for the amount of shaking required I am not too keen on my initial results....they appear to have no agitators in the bottles - so spare sprue bits are being added as I go - but I don't know.... The only thing the site says is: http://www.adiken.com - sorry can't link direct to page due to frames - go to paints and then adiken presentation... Apparently Eric Louchard. has written a tutorial using them but I can find no reference to it on his site which they link to. Any experience would be greatly appreciated.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrEvilmonki Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 I use glass beads or cut up nurglings as agitators. I would imagine plastic wouldn't be weighty enough to mix the paint easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wren Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 I was using the Adiken paints a fair bit for a little while, particularly for skin. I'll admit, once the Reaper Master Series came out I pretty much switched over exclusively to those. The Adikolors are decent paints, but like many paints, they take a bit of getting used to, and they're not quite as consistent across the line as we painters would like to see in an ideal world. The Adikolor paints act like they have a bit of drying retarder in the mix. So if you'd like to experiment with wetblending or feathering (using a wet brush to feather/soften the edges after you put down a layer), they are good paints to try that out with. It also means you should take some care about waiting for basecoats and layers to dry while painting or you can lift up or get air bubbles underneath previous layers. I didn't have a lot of problems with those issues, but it occasionally cropped up. I did have a fair amount of problem with getting little air bubbles when doing base coats over textured surfaces. By no means are Adikolor paints the only ones I've had that problem with, but the problem was more pronounced, and based on working with my own additive mixes, I think it's a result of the drying retarder. It helped to use Adiken's own thinner, but it also works just to blow on the mini after laying down the coat (or even carefully use compressed air) or pop the bubbles with the tip of a dry brush. The colours in the set are very nice, but as a set it's stronger in the light to mid tones and weaker in the amount of darker tones. There are some there, but you'll probably have to do some mixing to get shadow tones. The colour I really liked for skin is Dragonsbreath, which I think I highlighted with Arena or something else incongrously named. There are also two light browny gray colours (Battledust and Scroll something) that I really liked for rocks, horns, stuff like that. Their metallics are supposed to be really good, but I hardly use metallics so I can't say. They put out a few additional releases after the first suitcase, I'm not sure if those are in your full set or not. These include four XPM (extra pigmented) metallics and a selection of inks. I don't work a lot with inks and generally find them frustrating, but the Adikolor inks have been my favourite. (Reaper only just added inks to the Master Series line and I haven't experimented much with them. There's no yellow, and the Adikolor yellow is very nice.) These are links to several threads on CMON with discussions of the Adikolor paints. If you do a search on Adiken and then Adikolor, you may turn up a few more threads with bits and pieces of info. http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=8472 http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=3689 http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=5425 The tutorial written by Eric Louchard was a four page glossy that Adiken printed up to go with their suitcase release. It was also given out at seminars that he did at Cons on behalf of Adiken. They would not sell it separately, I tried to get it as I had purchased the previous suitcase release and didn't need another full set of paints. I took Eric's seminar at GenCon one year, which was great. I think I have an extra copy of the printed material and could try to mail it to you. I'm not always the most reliable about mailing, but I can try. :-> Or I can see if I can get a scan of it. The tutorial is based around Eric's technique of underpainting. This is where you start with a black prime, then spray from the top with white to get a zenithal prime. So the primer is already doing the basic placement and intensity of your highlights and shadows. What's not in the tutorial is that Eric uses artist's acrylic white to smooth the edges of the white prime and add additional range to the depths of tone between the white and black. Then he goes in with thin glazes of paint to establish colour and tone the shadows and highlights of each area, with final highlights being done with traditional more opaque layers, I believe. This link is a miniature I did in that style a few months after the tutorial, using the Adikolor paints. These are not great pictures, they're from when I was photographing against a white background. There is some graininess from the zenithal prime, but it's not quite as apparent as it is in these pictures. The skin on almost all the minis I painted between March 2005 and March 2006 was done with Adikolor paints (and bad photography). The Angel in my CMON gallery is almost all Adikolor save for the silk glaze on the dress, and the Japanese courtier is about half Adikolor half others. I'd have to dig up my painting notes from the time to remember specifics on any others. http://www.coolminiornot.com/117060 These links are direct from Eric on either the painting technique or Adikolor paints: http://www.lonebrushman.com/underpainting.htm http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=15436&hl= http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=10026&hl= The company Adiken has gone out of business. This has nothing to do with the quality or sales of any of their products. The owner was from France, and went back after his father died. It's not clear whether the financials were tied up with French companies or if he just let his own company fall apart out of grief, but either way, it's no longer operational. So if you fall in love with any of the paints, you might want to order a few backups. They're still being sold, usually at significantly reduced prices, at several places online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r2-j1 Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 I bought about a dozen Adikens at Gencon when they first came out a few years ago. I really really disliked them. They now sit in a bag in a closet, in the dark. I do know of a few very good painters who do like them though, so decide for yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skya Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 I so cannot stand Adikolor paints. Their conistency is well, inconsistent. The paints breaek apart to easily and I just cannot for teh life of me get them to flow off my brush properly making control with them sketchy at best. I'll stick with my Reaper Master Series and my Valleyo Model Colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolfDreamerNZ Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Thanks for the opinions guys - and Wren especially for the detailed post. I read the suggested articles on CMON and think I have a handle on it now...need to find a paint shakery thingy and go from there - I have them now - may as well use them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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