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GS, vulcanised moulds, and break points


green stuff

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I've done so in cases (not having the armature extent into the hand and so far none of them caused any trouble with breaking off at the wrists with casting.

For instance: http://www.coolminiornot.com/104240

No armature bejong the wrist on the stafflesshand. The stafftop has hardly an armature in it either as with most of the hair. None caused trouble.

http://www.coolminiornot.com/105480

No armature in the ears, tails and foot loose from the ground... no problems

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For the most part, in my limited experience mind you, I have found that as long as the GS is thick enough and handled with a moderate amount of care, that it will make it through the vulcanizing molding process fairly well. It is the small details, like chains and thin weapons that tend to distort or break altogether.

For instance, Bishops chain needed a wire throughout the whole of it, and for those of you that have purchased him, can see that a bit of extra GS was needed to fix it all to the tab and give support to the chain. It was thin and the first time around, broke off entirely at the hand which of course caused me no amount of headaches and a small tantrum that I hate to admit.

:D

Also something else to keep in mind when you are getting a miniature ready for a mold, make certain to have the miniature cleaned well, no grease or vasaline residue left on the miniature, and certainly don't connect or layer any of your GS without making certain there aren't any contaminates (lubricants) as they tend to seperate during molding and you may find yourself with an offset master and a damaged green which is going to require time and money to get taken care of.

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