DavicusPrime

This probably isn't entirely useful as these are "fly wings" rather than the typical bat wing look demon'ish critters have, but maybe it'll give you some ideas... I tried making wings for my Nurgle Raptors rather than jet packs in my last 40K army. The picture below shows my prototypes. The first was plasticard with Greenstuff veins, the second is what I actually used which was a wire frame and wire veins sandwiched between two layers of paper glued together. The third was just the paper and wire frame. I used Greenstuff to build up the end that connected to the model and painted it as pictured below. And then attached to the model. If I were to try making a bat wing, I would probably try something similar. Starting with a wire frame for the "arm and fingers" then using paper and glue to create the webbing. Then build up the "arm and fingers" with Greenstuff. Hope that gives you some ideas. -DavicusPrime

And that is why an FAQ would be needed if that's not what they meant. -DavicusPrime

I've always played that the terrain effecting the LoS/Cover status of the target has to actually be between the shooter and target. If the players define an "area terrain" piece where the base of the terrain feature imparts an effect, I would still rule that not being totally inside the base would negate the effect. But without a specific rule, it falls under the players define the terrain before the game part of playing the game. -DavicusPrime

It would probably work fine. You'd have to do each side separately, letting the first side cure before flipping it over to texture the other side. In actual use, it might not lay perfectly flat with both sides having a random thickness and texture. But I'm assuming that isn't going to be a deal breaker. If you don't roll it up too tight, I doubt it'll hurt the paint on either side. If I ever get around to making one, I may use some of the scrap to test the dual sided idea. -DavicusPrime

Simply adding some sand to a quart of house paint can do the trick. I've used white glue and playground sand in the past ($5 US for 50lb bag and $10US for a gallon jug of white glue) it might be a little rougher than what you're looking for though. The textured spray paint mentioned above could very well work with the least amount of effort. -DavicusPrime

Yeah... That's my bright idea to paint the edges the faction color (haven't decided how I'm going to deal with dual faction models yet). I originally had them painted a darker blue but I decided I liked the brighter color. What you see above is the entirety of my painted models, so changing my mind won't be a huge hardship at this point. For now, I still like the blue. One problem I had was once I got paint and a coat of varnish on the bases, the crescents began to not slot nicely on the swarm base and/or once in, was so tight a fit that getting them out again risked pulling the mini off the base. To fix that, I shaved a little off the edges of both the crescents and the swarm base until all the "sticking points" had some clearance. This has lead to me going to the other two sets of spiders I haven't painted yet and preemptively fixing their "sticking points". -DavicusPrime

I finally got around to putting some paint on these things. So here's the set of Arachnids pictured above... -DavicusPrime

Thank you very much, sir! You are a scholar and a gentleman! *grin* -DavicusPrime

I've used their stuff quite a lot too. The only problem I had was some space marines I assembled with it had a habit of splitting at the waist when dropped straight down onto a hard floor (I had washers glued under the base for stability... which made them land perfectly on their bases, but the impact caused the glue holding the legs to the torso to fail). After a rather klutzy night of game play I had half a squad of models to reassemble. This would never have happened had I assembled them with plastic glue. None of this is to say that super glue from any supplier is bad. All I'm saying is that plastic glue has at least this one advantage over super glue. And plastic glue will NOT work on any material other than styrene based plastics. No resin, metal or combination of plastic, resin or metal will work with plastic glues/cements. So you'll pretty much always need super glue on hand for everything else. -DavicusPrime

The goal I have is to get a 36" x 36" flexible mat textured with a cobblestone pattern over 100% of it's surface as the base for city terrain. Right now it looks as though the Zuzzy stone work mat is going to provide the best store bought option. If I were to design the cobblestone pattern myself it would have a mixture of herring bone, Wave and generic off-set brick patterns with the occasional grate and/or manhole, similar to the base inserts I make for my models. But unless I was going to be able to mass produce them to sell myself, which I have neither the experience, the skill nor the facilities to do so, the time and cash required would be a bad investment compared to just buying an alternative that meets my needs. I'm grateful for Harbringer's willingness to test out my fairly ignorant ideas and sharing his manufacturing knowledge for our little thought experiment here. And thanks to the rest of y'all who tossed their ideas into the ring. -DavicusPrime

The way I minimize damage due to excess glue is to put a small puddle on a post-it note and dip only the contact point into it. This keeps it off your fingers and only on the bits you intend on gluing. Overall, it's a pretty minor problem. The few mistakes I've made with plastic glue over the last 30years is miniscule compared to the number of times I've superglued my fingers to something, including one or more of my other fingers. :-) -DavicusPrime

I use Testors Plastic Cement. The main difference is that the glues for plastic actually melt the parts together. Effectively creating a weld. Positive - Once set the parts aren't coming apart. Negative - Getting the glue on parts of the model you don't want it on can damage or distort the detail. -DavicusPrime

This is exactly why I have been struggling to use Ramos well. So many options, and all of them viable, means I'm going to be needing a lot of games under my belt before I would consider myself competent. Add to that, relearning the game in it's new incarnation and it's going to be a very long time before I have a clue what I'm doing. Especially considering I only really get to play one weekend a month. -DavicusPrime

Agreed. Though I really do prefer the old Howie's looks compared to Miss Step and the new Howie. The beefiness of the old model's legs just says enforcer to me. Though, it took me forever to assemble him and reassembling him after he got dropped once. My opinion of the new Howie may change once I see him in person. -DavicusPrime

So far the only plastic kits I've assembled are Lazarus and Miss Step. Lazarus was actually a really well designed model. It went together very well and the articulated joints meant there was a lot of ease and flexibility in posing. Miss Step was more difficult to assemble with all the little bits. And the spindly legs, arms and cables make me skeptical regarding her durability. Being able to use plastic glue on them means that ultimately, the bonds will be stronger and more resilient than the typical Superglue on metal. And plastics do survive the whoopsies (being dropped and what-not) way better than the metals. Add to that the fact that you don't have chipping problems with the paint like metals typically do. This all adds up to even the more fragile sculpts on the new plastics being quite resilient to wear and tear as long as you aren't too careless. Honestly, if I didn't already have a bunch of time & money sunk into the metals I own, I'd replace most of them without hesitation. -DavicusPrime

At least they kept the tradition of killing off Sean Bean's character. I'm having trouble remembering any movies/TV Shows that Sean Bean's character actually survives to the end of. -DavicusPrime

I thought it was all about the exposed mammaries (HBO's not so secret weapon). Thus, I've heard the show referred to as "boobies with a chance of dragons". At least they aren't undead mammaries. -DavicusPrime

Thank you for testing this out so we did't have to. So the caulk is just too sticky to use a mold then? -DavicusPrime

So funny. So wrong. Must bleach brain. *shock* -DavicusPrime

There's just no such thing as enough protection. =o -DavicusPrime

And look at what's on the horizon for gremlins: A gang of Drunk Asian'ish Greenies with a giant freaking Golem Made of Freaking Beer Kegs! And a gang led by some crazy old lady gremlin with a freaking spanking spoon! If I wasn't already playing Malifaux, these two masters would have been all it took to get me in. But then, if launching explosive piglets with a "pigapult" didn't get you excited before, maybe this isn't your game after all. -Davicus "Say no to Undead Prostitution" Prime

Ooooh. What kind of terrain? Awesome. I'm looking forward to hearing about your results. I suspect you're right on my roller idea, but that's brainstorming for ya. I was looking over those Zuzzy flagstone mats and I think I may just bite the bullet... However from the Zuzzy forum, they're running with a 6wk backlog. So don't go ordering from them if you need it right away. -DavicusPrime

:+fate 3 sets should work for you, as others have said. In 1.5v I had 3 sets of arachnids. I magnetized two sets and never put my third set together as I wasn't able to summon more than 3 or 4 a game and never needed that third set. Now that it's possible to whip up 3 at a time, I've begun putting that last set together. I still doubt I'll ever have all of them on the table at once, but as I already owned them, I will have them just in case. If I didn't magnetize them, I'd probably run with 4 sets, 6 as singles and two as swarms, just in case. Singles and swarms work very well together offensively, if you've got to take something down and your other models aren't handy. But have different roles regarding schemes. The singles can fan out dropping scheme markers as they go while the Swarms can destroy enemy markers in a 3" aura (they destroy all scheme markers, so try not to trash your own in the process). So having both available is worth it. -DavicusPrime

Small Model Count (low cost of entry). Versatility in how you use your collection (You collect factions, not masters). And it didn't take me long to wrap my head around the rules/mechanics of the game. I escaped from 40K and went looking for new games to try. I played Heavy Gear Blitz for a while but I just couldn't seem to really get the rules and my opponent typically tabled me every game. That opponent suggested we give Malifaux a go next time we met. So I picked up a Ramos Crew off ebay and bought a couple blisters of models to fill things out to about 35 stones (by 1.5v reckoning). My enjoyment level was much higher that HGB, though I still wasn't winning (but that's normal for me. :-P). I added Kaeris to the mix and started having a little more success. Then I switched over to an Ophelia crew and I actually started winning. Turns out semi-suicidal shooty folk is more my thing than an old dude with his clockwork melee swarms. The one thing that kept me out of Malifaux when I first heard about it back around the release of the second book in 1st Edition, was the whole zombie hooker thing. I know that angle is exactly why some folks jumped into the game, but I found it rather distasteful (No, I'm not a prude. But there are things I'd rather not have to explain to my kids just yet :-\). However, I've been noticing that some of the new sculpts are heading toward the not as "inappropriate" as the old (ex. Taelor actually gets a whole shirt now!). There may still be zombie hookers, but at least I don't have to break out the greenstuff to PG-13 my models. Edit: Also, dice hate me. A lot. Really, really hate me. -DavicusPrime

All three games I played I took Joss with Bleeding edge Tech. I held him back, but close enough to my spiders to keep them healing. And his presence made my opponent a little cautious to push too far into my side of the board (we were playing recon). I LOVE HOWIE!!! I pretty much denied an entire side of the table using him in one game. The free walk action ("nimble") was wonderful. He tar-pitted my opponent's tank (Freidcorp Strong arm), while walking around inside the engagement range letting him walk around the Strong arm and pick-off other models that were trying to slip around them with his full 2 AP. And I don't blame them one bit. I just don't want to have to buy whole boxes just to get one or two of the models. But I'll probably end up doing it anyway. Perhaps I'll just have to get a Nicodem crew and convert all my unused models into mindless Zombies. -DavicusPrime