brib4169

Good call, that older post was pre-1.5

I thought of that too, but I needed to order more magnets anyway, so I figured I'd try that first. The new plastics are so much lighterI that I only need one of the cubes to keep it down sufficiently

Has been asked before, still no official answer http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?32053-can-arcane-effigy-and-casting-expert-be-combined-cast-a-2-ap-spell

You won't save any money compared to the foam cases, big tool boxes can cost $30 -60, magnets can run up to $0.10 each. The biggest advantage is that there is no foam rubbing your paint off I have had some problems with the 10mm magnets being stronger than the glue I used (zap-a-gap). I have recently switched to 2.5mm cubes and using 2of them on a 30mm base and it seems to be working better. I have no problems with models sliding. I did have a small problem with the 10mm magnets being stronger than my glue

I'm firmly in the magnets and tool box camp. The 50mm and old 30mm (no logo) bases take a 2.5mm deep magnet (I used 2.5 x 2.5 x 10mm) The 40mm bases and the new 30mm (have the Wyrd logo on the underside) take a 1/16" magnet ( I used 3/16 x 3/16 x 1/16)

don't have my cards handy, but iirc, The freikorps armor is immune to all pulses auras and blasts (like raspi's bearskin armor), so the wound never gets in

know your enemy http://tabletopgeeks.com/wp-content/downloads/malifaux/tactica/PandoraTacticav2.2.doc

Welcome to the game. Crew selection is a very personal choice, and a lot will depend on what type of crew you want to play. A good general starting point is to buy the starter box plus one (maybe two) extra blisters. There are several that don't require a huge buy-in to be effective. Here are examples. Want a shooty crew, try Perdita, Ophelia, or Von Schill. Want a melee crew, go with the Viks, Mei Feng, or Lady J. Want a survivable crew, go with Seamus. Want a challenge, try Pandora. Marcus is not a bad option as he and Raspy can take a lot of the same models so you will overall need to buy less, but you will probably want a lot more than what is in his box. Sonia has a good box, but is a lot like Raspy so you will not be getting as much exposure to other possible play styles. Other options: Check out the wiki (http://pullmyfinger.wikispaces.com/) for each and see what sounds good. Contact your local henchman, get a demo game arranged, they usually have multiple crews. If you have a FLGS near by you can always pop in during events (or better yet join in) and see what people are using. Most players have a extra crew or two (...or six) they are willing to let you try out before you buy.

If I didn't already have a lot of $$ invested in http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wildwestexodus/wild-west-exodus-sci-fi-western-miniatures-game I'd be tempted

When I have this problem with my zap-a-gap bottle, I take a pair of pliers (ideally ones with a rounded jaw ie/for gripping pipe, not a straight one) and gently squeeze the cap at the point where it is glued, you should hear the glue crush as the plastic flexes, you should then be able to twist off the cap. I don't know of any glues that come with an applicator, but you can always buy an applicator like the ones here: http://www.micromark.com/applicators.html I have a http://www.micromark.com/micro-glue-applicator,8048.html, but save the $ and make your own, just clip the very end off the eye of a sewing needle (so the eye resembles a tuning fork) and stick the pointy end in the eraser end of a pencil. Find some sort of little plastic cap to put the glue in and viola, DIY glue applicator setup.

Brutal effigy is nice if you don't want to Take her totem. Abuela is decent and can give another Model the family trait.

You could always try a hole saw. Glue the paper to the mdf. Then cut the whole thing

Withall the small details on the new plastic kits, I recently converted to testors ( http://www.testors.com/product/136635/3507AT/_/Liquid_Cement_1_Oz.) more for the applicator, but the glue is excellent too. For metal I still use zap a gap. And since I mistakenly bought the jumbo size bottle that dispensers way too fast I bought an applicator http://www.micromark.com/micro-glue-applicator,8048.html which is nice but you can save the $9 by filing the head of a large sewing needle and stabbing it into the eraser end of a pencil

You can rubberize any tweezers by wrapping tape around the tips. I reallylike the cross-lock type. I have a cheap pair that works reasonably well (bought before I discovered that website)

http://www.micromark.com/tweezers.html If this this is a persistent problem, it might b worth investing in

Wherever I go, there I am... ready to paint ...and this is mostly emptied, you can cram a lot of stuff in one of these

I put magnets on everything then use a toolbox with metal drawers

Governors proxy is good if you play against anything using a lot of Wp based attacks

I was finishing up a little painting and wanted to take a quick picture to send to a friend, I had happened to set the model down on the base of the light I was using and it just clicked. So for those of us that like to take pictures with our phones or other Point and shoot cameras (not sure but a DSLR might be too big to fit under the light), here is a simple "light box" with a build in light. I figured I would share since getting decent pictures is something a lot of people struggle with. This is pitching the light, not my mediocre painting skills These lights are cheap and easy to find, I think I got mine at an office supply store for about $20 http://www.officemax.com/office-furniture/lighting/desk-and-floor-lamps/product-prod3300015 set your model on the base and angle the light down I turned the flash off, put the camera under the light, and fired away. I haven't played with angles yet, this is pretty much straight on. A quick crop and you get a finished product Granted this is a cheap fluorescent light (blue tinted - that background should be white), but the illumination it provides is good. if you happen to have an Ott brand ( http://www.ottlite.com/p-343-folding-task-lamp.aspx )or similar with the full spectrum bulb the colors might come out a little better, but they cost a lot more.

One of he local henchmen, bruglyother in the forums, did something similar except he magnetized the bundles so the could be added or removed for line in te sand. I'm sure there are pictures somewhere, maybe in his blog Found it http://www.wyrd-games.net/entry.php?120-What-I-ve-been-working-on

Juju is a lot of fun, but he is not a doll (construct only), I don't own collodi so Im not sure if he has any synergy. Wicked dolls are significant within 3", Weaver widow can give him rotten contents, he is also a lot of fun with aZoraida.

A lot depends on what style of play you want. I really like tuco, and the effigies. Wicked dolls are nice too. A mature nephelim if your opponent is resistant to your obeys. Haemlin (merchant, not master) can be fun. Take papa loco with a nurse for lots of fun times. Arcane gunsmiths are nice if you need ranged, but I like tuco better. Insidious madness if your facing a lot of immune to the influence models.

I've always had good results with the armory ones (has comic book characters on the front), but I have read reviews who have had bad experiences, they are cheaper than GW so not too expensive to experiment.

I've always liked this series of videos, there are a bunch of other good ones in his library

I agree with trying them all before you buy. I have tried several generations of GW, and reaper, never got around to trying P3, and currently use a lot of Vallejo simply because that is what my FLGS stocks and I prefer to be able to see the paint in person (look at the bottom of the bottle) and not on a screen or in a pamphlet. I have also started dabbling in some of the interference paints from Golden brand (from a local art store). If you really like the GW or P3 stuff you can buy empty dropper bottles and transfer it over. I had to do that with a bunch of old Citadel and reaper pro paints paint pots that kept drying out. As far as washes go, if you want a fun DIY project, check out Les's washes (the guy who runs awesomepaintjob.com). Here is a link to his recipes. http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/261541.page or you can buy them from here (his recipe, different name, long story) http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=54 a wet pallete is simple to make, simply take a sealable container (like tupperware, but I like the ones with the clips on the sides so I dont shake thing's up), place a damp sponge inside, add water to about half way up the sponge (or less depending on how often you are opening it, just don't let the sponge get dry), cut parchment paper to the same size as your sponge (no overlap or you could wick up water), lay it on the sponge and gently touch it down so that it adheres but does not let beads of water on top. Viola wet pallete. Good places to look for the hobby portion of our game are http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/forums/list.page (the painting section) http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/ http://tutofig.com/ check youtube for how-to videos, Awesomepaintjob has a good series, and you can follow similar threads from there. I would avoid the Dvd's, none of the ones I have seen are quite what I expected. Everyone is teaching their way, and painting is all about your way. One exception that I haven't seen yet, is the Jeremie Bonamant one http://www.jeremiebt.com/pages/page.php?page=jbt_interview_dvd〈=uk it is supposed to give a lot of theory (color, light, shading, etc), so should be good. A guy who has that many golden demons (30+) can't be that wrong. Sorry I rambled so much, hope it helped