Plastic Mini Construction Tutorial

[Silas Cordell]

Hello,

After seeing several comments about Wyrd's plastics being difficult for newer modelers, I thought I might jot down some pieces of advice that I hope will make someone's life a bit easier.

First, let's consider the materials we should have on hand.

1. The sprues (obvious, really)

2. Clippers (model clippers are best, but nail clippers will work, also)

3. Hobby knife

4. File (optional)

5. Glue (I strongly recommend plastic model glue. I use Testors model masters, which comes in a black bottle with a metal needle applicator. Super glue will work in a pinch, though)

6. A clean, well lit work space

Once you have everything set up, the first step is simply to look over all the pieces on the sprue. Some of the sprues have alphanumeric codes to make it easier to identify parts of particular models, but don't skip this step regardless. Try to have a good idea of what each piece is and where it goes before you ever pick up a tool.

When clipping off the bits, there are two methods. I tend to pick a model and clip off just the parts for that model, assemble it, then repeat. It can be easier to be sure that nothing is missed if you clip off all of the pieces and divide them into piles for each model first. Nothing is as bad as having a model mostly glued together and discovering that you've left something on the sprue that won't fit now.

"Proper" technique for clipping sprues (as I was taught) is to use your clippers to cut through the bits of sprue holding on your selected piece about 1-2 mm away from the piece itself. Once the piece is completely free of the sprue, then use your clippers, knife, and file (if you want) to clean off the tabs that are still attached to it.

Once you are ready to start gluing bits together, test fit EVERYTHING. No matter how straightforward a connection appears, test it first without glue. Try to dry-fit as many pieces as possible together. Yes, sometimes you will feel like you need a third hand for this, but the advantage it gives cannot be overstated. The better you understand how the pieces fit together, the smaller the chance you will make a mistake assembling the model.

It is usually best to glue the entire model together before gluing it to it's base. This gives the best opportunity to adjust the models balance and pose.

tl;dr version: Take the time to examine the sprue before you start clipping pieces, and test fit everything.

[Clousseau]

A couple of extra little points;

Clean off any flash or raised lines (from the mould split line) before assembly. Using a knife blade drawn along the line at 90 degrees to the model works well as an alternative to filing.

If the sprue attaches to the model at the feet consider leaving/filing a 'pin' of plastic to enable the model to be pinned to a resin base or metal bas insert (as drilling & pinning is more difficult in many cases). Obviously you don't need to do this if glueing directly to the plastic base.

Liquid plastic glue (Revell in UK) is better than super glue.

A ready mixed model filler (I use Green Putty) is great for filling any small gaps. It dries really quickly and is easy to sand.

Finally consider how you will paint the model. It may be better to glue some parts on after partially painting certain areas.

[Omenbringer]

I would also add a clean the sprues in warm soapy water to remove any residual mold release step prior to clipping anything. This will help with both paint and glue adhesion later on.

[Tombanjo]

I would also add that it's worth looking closely at long thin parts before you start clipping to make sure you do it in the right order. I'm assembling the Misaki box now and things like the ball and chain could have posed a problem. Hopefully the plastic has enough elasticity in it, but for parts like those, with points of attachment at the ends and in the middle, or on thin parts and thick, like the Totokage with the chain knifes that attach on the blade and at the arm. I cut those parts on the thin points or outside points first, then the middle attachment point. This means the part is less likely to break by being held at the ends as it flexes off the middle point...they have a relief. Not sure I've described it clearly but seems to work.

Dave

---------- Post added at 02:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:53 PM ----------

A little detail on the tool list, I totally agree with the tool set and would add the following details:

Files: I think a small set of needle files with different profiles is a must, various flat and curved surface are a great compliment to your ability to remove seams etc. Not really expensive and last forever.

Hobby knife: Play with different blades to find one you are comfortable with, I tend to use #11 x-actos or similar, long straight edge and a really useful sharp point. Stronges recommendation here would be to make sure you change them, a dull knife will wreck a model and increase possibility of accident as well. I tend to change them when I start a new box. If you have a couple handles you can keep older blades for the tough jobs like working with metal figures or some of the tougher stuff basing may throw at you.

Clippers: Never tried nail cutters, but a small set of side clippers is usually all you need (again, if you do a lot of metal cutting get a pair for metal and one for plastic). The thinner the profile the better your chances of having a clean, low stress cut from the sprue.

Tweezers: These models have some very small pieces and tweezer type tools are helpful. I actually prefer small needle nosed pliers, with a little texture to the gripping surface over typical tweezers. The extra grip lets me position pieces more accurately, where the tweezers with no grip let the piece turn in the grip, making positioning much more difficult

[Omenbringer]

I would also add that it's worth looking closely at long thin parts before you start clipping to make sure you do it in the right order. I'm assembling the Misaki box now and things like the ball and chain could have posed a problem. Hopefully the plastic has enough elasticity in it, but for parts like those, with points of attachment at the ends and in the middle, or on thin parts and thick, like the Totokage with the chain knifes that attach on the blade and at the arm. I cut those parts on the thin points or outside points first, then the middle attachment point. This means the part is less likely to break by being held at the ends as it flexes off the middle point...they have a relief. Not sure I've described it clearly but seems to work.

This is great advice for cutting plastics from sprues in general however during GenCon I watched Nathan flick a Ten Thunders Archers bow about a million times with out it breaking (long thin, completely unsupported piece that would usually be one of the first things broken on a model). Their plastics really do seem to handle repeated flexing a lot better than most other brands I have played with (definately not saying to tempt fate but...).

[Tombanjo]

This is great advice for cutting plastics from sprues in general however during GenCon I watched Nathan flick a Ten Thunders Archers bow about a million times with out it breaking (long thin, completely unsupported piece that would usually be one of the first things broken on a model). Their plastics really do seem to handle repeated flexing a lot better than most other brands I have played with (definately not saying to tempt fate but...).

I agree, the stuff does seem to be forgiving, but like you say, don't want to tempt fate...Nathan has a big box of bows to flick..I got one chance to get it right

[i_was_like_you]

Aside from the Nathan ropes on the Hanging Trees and one of the Archers' arrows, I haven't had anything plastic snap. Of course I do take into consideration the same points Tombanjo raised regarding clipping them in the right order.