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Mining Town Demo Board Project


Antiquitas

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Three hours of fun this evening finishing of the hills, cutting out the platform for the beam engine, and making the drainage / river system.

It now all fits!

There will be a pipe from the pump barrel to the outflow, where the water cascades into the culvert and joins the river.

The river goes into a drain under a wall, flows along an open channel, and goes through a pipe under the Guild House.

The other end of the pipe forms the start of river again.

The high walls by the beam engine have a coal bunker cut into them.

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I have blacked out the whole board with a 60:40 mix of black emulsion and PVA.

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Now i'm twiddling my thumbs waiting for it to dry!

Time for a tea-break...

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what is the upsid of mixing pva trough your paint?

I had always used white polystyrene when making boards and these needed a tough coat to prevent 'chipping'.

I would usually use a PVA, emulsion paint (colour to suit terrain concept) and sand (for texture).

Sometimes i would use layers of tissue paper instead of sand as this can be smoothed or wrinkled to give some unusual effects.

The paint added in just saves a stage and makes the PVA go further. Generally I would use a 60:40 mix (paint to PVA) and add sand until it was still runny enough to brush on (one or two handfuls depending on the quantities).

The mix fills in any joints, can be 'piled up' on the bottom edges of cliffs, and can be stippled or smoothed as it dries

Black paint mix gives depth to the terrain and usually only requires two differing wet washes and a dry brush to look really detailed and realistic.

I have boards that are made with low density polystyrene that are 8 -10 years old with very little damage showing.

There are probably simpler methods but this one is cheap and easy and works well for me.

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hmm... I think you should check the display mode (on every page above the first post). I have it on Linear mode - this displays the posts according to the time they are posted. I think most of us have this display. The other two (I believe you are viewing one of those) are probably better once you get used to them because they allow you to view who answered which post.

I for one just click the add reply at the bottom...

anyway, the mixture PVA, Paint, sand works for me to. Although I usually don't add paint just the "mixture" as we in the club call it. It is PVA, water and sand/gravel. the consistency is like a paste (a little watery).. once dry I then use black mat acrylic sprey for undercoat.

the "mixture" is necessary for two reasons:

1. as Antiquitas stated - it preserves the hell out of terrain

2. polystyrene (low and high density) is eaten by sprey - so for protection..

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I have to agree that adding the Glue into the paint and sand saves a ton of time and results in a very durable and ready to paint (or seal) surface.

I differ a little bit in my mix but I think it results in a much more durable final product (and of course a lot less actual work).

  • Instead of PVA I use Carpenters/ Wood Glue (stronger than PVA by a bunch)
  • Instead of regular paint I use Drwall Primer paint usually oil based and always in white (it is sometimes called PVA paint). This way I dont have to prime at all afterword.
  • I always add my terturing medium to the mix (usually playground sand since its cheap, easy to get, and most importantly does require sifting or cleaning like the stuff outside does).
  • My final rations are close to 1 :1 :1 (or until it looks like the breakfst item creme of wheat)
  • Instead of several different coats of paint to color it, I just use Minwax Polyshade (usually in Chestnut) to color and seal in one step. Just like when dipping mini's it does most of the work of creating realistic color depth for you. And as a sealer, polyurethane is hard to beat.

That board gets better and better with each addition Antiquitas, and all I can say is damn you work fast.

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Yep - changed the mode and now on linear - hope it helps!

Wood glue IS a lot stronger (and I use it when fixing bits together) but in Ireland it is stupidly expensive - most things are here! - so large tubs of PVA do the job. I haven't noticed a difference in shell strength on boards when I have used wood glue mix though.

I have never used Minwax Polyshade so I haven't seen the results on boards up close but I will order some and try it. Thanks!

I do a lot of boards (but this is the first for a 12 month 'cos of work commitments etc) so I try to keep the materials costs to a minimum and will use any paints (emulsions and acrylics) that are being thrown out or are at car-boot sales.

I do like to use multiple layers - and wet washes and dry brushing is so quick anyway - but to me the proof is when you take close up photos in games and all the colours and textures make it look real.

That makes it all worthwhile!

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You should be able to get MinWax Polyshade from pretty much any Do It Yourself stores (in America it would be places like Lowes, Home Depot, True Value Hardware) and a lot of craft Stores that sell wood working stuff (once again in America stores like Hobby Lobby or Micheals). Unfortunately their website is one of the few without a store locator so can't help for Ireland.

The color I prefer to use is Pecan (It may take a few more coats to get to the final color you want but offers a lot more color control because of it). Other good colors are American chestnut and Antique Walnut (great for showing dark rich soil).

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With Christmas and work on Boxing Day there hasn't been a great deal of progress.

But one board was finished on time and the other is progressing - be it at a slower rate.

I redesigned the slag-cart as it didn't look right - now it's a bit more to scale.

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and made some bushes out of Plumber's Hemp and Flock.

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The Beam Engine board is getting a paint job (still wet)

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And the coal bunker is under construction

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The cells have bars and beds

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and the store is getting its windows, shelves, counter and doors.

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A lot of bits are under construction but it will be slower this week as we are busy at work.

My Christmas treat has arrived - some Hirstarts molds - so I can start production of barrels and sacks for the store.

One good bit of news - Mike is still away so I still have some time - could be Orthodox presents?

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I know it has been said many times, but this is an incredible project. I am impressed with how well conceived the layout and details seem to be. You have hit the fine balance between adding enough detail for interest and not adding so much that it is overwhelming to complete. Congrats on a great looking project. I will be looking forward to seeing the finished boards.

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