Narcissus

This is a really cool idea. I've been thinking about getting properly into mailfaux for a while and the plastic sculpts have convinced me. I just need some help picking a faction! Flames of war: mainly German tanks. Elite and aggressive generalists. This is my main game. Warhammer: warriors of chaos and bretonnians. I like elite close combat fighters. Warhammer 40k: nurgle chaos space marines Magic cards: red and green. Simple and damage. Rome total war: Romans, brutii Command and conquer: GDI Warcraft 2: Orcs Knights of the old republic: sith sentinel Super Mario brothers: Mario :-P Super smash brothers: Link Very excited to see what you pick. Thanks!

Great looking gangs. It is great that you will have this nice little selection of gangs for demo games. Lots of variety and character. Definitely a gang for everyone's different tastes. Those faction rule cards you made up are really handy. Great idea and great paint jobs.

Very colourful. You should host the pictures here too (I would guess you would get more responses that way). Posting online is a great way to get feedback to push yourself as a painter.

Hello. I've finally gotten around to painting some of my Red Chapel Gang. I was planning to paint them in a black and white style like Sin City. I ended up adding a bit too much colour in the blue highlights. The overall theme still fits somewhat. Here is my finished Seamus model: I'm pleased with some of the work on the model, as I pushed myself to try different colours and techniques. The overall model is pretty mediocre though. Here are some corpse counters I built as well: The skull pile is from the GW skull blister. I will try to get the other four models completed for the start of the world wide campaign next week. They are nearing completion. Comments and constructive criticism are appreciated. Thanks!

Looks very nice. Definitely makes a nice avatar. Good integration of Nicodem with the corpse cart. Looking forward to seeing it painted. That is one huge model though!

Great tutorial. I've been planning to do some magnetizing soon and was trying to decide how to drill the holes. I think I will just get some drill bits that will hopefully fit with my pin vice. Thanks for the tutorial.

Looks great. I like how modular most of the elements are. I think it would make for a very atmospheric game. Thanks for sharing.

They look great. I stumbled across them here before WCP. THe uniformity across the group looks very striking. As I said before, I love how the blending with the painted dip looks. Lots of depth but none of the strange build up that often happens with dip. My girlfriend is making up a Perdita crew just now, I will show her this tomorrow for some inspiration. Thanks for sharing.

That base looks fantastic. I am looking forward to seeing more progress.

I know it has been said many times, but this is an incredible project. I am impressed with how well conceived the layout and details seem to be. You have hit the fine balance between adding enough detail for interest and not adding so much that it is overwhelming to complete. Congrats on a great looking project. I will be looking forward to seeing the finished boards.

I just use woodland scenics water effect. I am adding some to a base this weekend so I will take some pictures and put them here for you.

Q'iq'el-your tutorial is really great. I hadn't seen that. I like how you used the plasticard instead of the bricks to create the different tile patterns. Very cool. I like your idea of using different types of clay as well. I just had milliput and greenstuff on hand, hence the reason I used those. I will try to find some clay and experiment with it a bit. i_was_like_you-I agree. I like water effects. I was thinking about making some puddles in missing stones with the bricks. Adding in details like sewer grates and things would just add to the effect. Huang da wei-For a swampy theme I thought about making some sloped sand and little bits of a pier on each base and then putting water effects underneath it. The trouble I had with it is that I want to make a display board that fits with it as well and I thought this might be a bit tricky to incorporate. Ratch-As Q'iq'el shows in his tutorial, once you have build the press mold it would go quite quickly to cover the bases of a small force. Adding some little details and other junk on top would help to break it up a bit too.

This tutorial will show you how to quickly and easily create brick bases for an army using greenstuff or any other sculpting putty. I'll show the steps for building a simple press mold to quickly make nice bases. For this tutorial I used a flat round base, but the method would be almost the same using an inset base for Malifaux. I'm new to this forum and wrote this tutorial for my blog, but I thought I would share it here as well. The final product. Materials -greenstuff or milliput (or any other air drying putty, I use milliput as it is cheaper) -a base (recessed like warmachine or malifaux or flat top like GW bases) -chapstick or vaseline (a lubricant, many others would also work, I used chapstick) -plasticard or cardboard (only a few square inches) -paint and flock -miniature bricks -sand paper Procedure I recently saw this tutorial [ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMcAV4RPbJQ[/ame] on building brick bases and casting to create bases. I don't currently have a casting kit or materials so I decided to try it with a press mold. I was also inspired by these cool brick Mordheim bases at Massive Voodoo (a great website, lots of incredible stuff). This tutorial will show you how I made a simple press mold to make lots of brick bases for a Mordheim warband. I tried two different techniques that I will show you here. Part 1: Build a press mold First we need to build the press mold. I have a small bag of these little bricks I bought online. They are pretty useful for basing. Our first step is to cut a piece of plasticard or cardstock out to the size of our finished mold. I built mine about 50mm x 50mm, slightly larger than a 40mm square base. The plasticard will make the final mold a little more durable. I then made a thin layer of milliput of a uniform thickness around 4mm on top of the plasticard. Cover the top of the milliput in vaseline or chapstick (to stop the bricks from sticking as much). Plasticard and milliput The next step is to make the design we will want for our brick pattern. I decided to stick with a simple pattern as I think it will show up best on a small base. You could use more complex patterns. I pushed the bricks a few millimetres into the milliput in a fairly uniform pattern. I left a few spaces where bricks have fallen out. Once this is done, leave it to set overnight. Small bricks pushed into the milliput at a uniform depth. You want it deep enough to create a good indent. Alternative methods The first mold I built I first glued the bricks to a 40mm base and then pressed the greenstuff on top of the dried bricks and base. This worked alright, but it was harder to control the depth of the mold. Bricks are glued onto the 40mm square base. Master is pressed firmly into the greenstuff. If you do not have the tiny bricks, you could still follow this tutorial by creating a master by carving bricks individually onto a 40mm base using sculpting tools and an exacto knife. Once it had set you could follow the procedure above. Part 2: Make a base After setting overnight, our press mold should be ready. Carefully pop out each of the bricks. You can use a sanding block or some sandpaper to clean up the master (I tried to get mine to uniform height using a sanding block). A blurry picture of the two press molds. The mold on the left was made by pushing in bricks, the mold on the right was made by pushing the putty onto the master (method two). You can see the difference in depth with the two methods. Get the base you want for your final model. Create a thin layer of milliput or greenstuff on top of it (you could go really thin and just have the top of a brick layer of you could go thicker and have the full bricks). Put some chapstick or vaseline on top of the milliput once it is smoothed. Take your press mold and push it down on top of the milliput. Push firmly so the indentations go in a few millimetres, but not so firmly that it all squishes out over the base. After molding. After pushing the mold down, carefully remove it. You should have something like what you see above. Some of the lines might not be deep enough. Using your sculpting tools or an exacto knife, carefully clean up the lines between the bricks. You can also remove damaged bricks and draw in cracks and indentations if desired. Let the milliput cure for a few hours and then add some sand and ballast in some cracks and larger damaged areas. Add any other details you want on the base. You can see here that I have cleaned up the cracks between bricks, removed some bricks, and added a little bit of sand. I would recommend using your tools to make sure the lines between bricks are on the outside edges too (I didn't do that here). You can see where I sanded the outside edge as well. Part 3: Painting and flocking After curing, your base is now ready. You can clean up the edges using sandpaper or a sanding block to create a smooth outside edge. You can then drill the base to pin a miniature onto. Prime the base and paint it as you would for any other model. I quickly painted mine by painting it with Americana Raw Umber and then drybrushing Codex Grey, Bleached Bone, and Skull White overtop and the dulling it down with a thinned wash of Devlan Mud. I glued on a little bit of flock with PVA glue to create some moss between the cracks. To improve the look you could paint the bricks different colours. Additional details like rubble, wood, scrap metal, etc. on top of the base will also improve the illusion. Here is the final painted base. Next time I would spend a bit more time on the painting. I think the painting is a bit bland. You can see that we have created a decent stone brick effect though. Milliput or greenstuff? I used milliput for most of this tutorial. I generally dislike using straight milliput for sculpting as it tends to flake and stick a bit for me. I usually mix greenstuff and milliput. For bases like this though, milliput is much cheaper. It is also possible to sand milliput to clean up the bricks and the edge of the base. I would recommend using milliput (or something similar) over the more expensive greenstuff. Greenstuff would definitely still work though if that is all you have. Hope this helps someone. Enjoy!

Looks great. I like your method for the bases. I saw a similar tutorial using sheet styrene but I think the balsa wood would be much easier and faster to work with. Thanks for sharing.