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What paints do you use?


redben

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I have used a little bit of everything. I had used citadel paintes till they switched to thoes crystal pots with the black caps - I had so many of thoes dry up on me or caps seal up though I never recall gettinv paint on the threads.

I still have some ancient citadel with the fliptops, i have the entire line of P3 but I worked fo PP and got them cheap - I think are a little bettr the GW. Got a lot of Vallajo when I was into Confrontation and I still love thoes and I use some Foundry and Golden Artist Fluid Acrylics.

Been years since I painted and finding it fun to start over and relearn things....

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I have used a little bit of everything. I had used citadel paintes till they switched to thoes crystal pots with the black caps - I had so many of thoes dry up on me or caps seal up though I never recall gettinv paint on the threads.

I still have some ancient citadel with the fliptops, i have the entire line of P3 but I worked fo PP and got them cheap - I think are a little bettr the GW. Got a lot of Vallajo when I was into Confrontation and I still love thoes and I use some Foundry and Golden Artist Fluid Acrylics.

Been years since I painted and finding it fun to start over and relearn things....

Gw has since gone back to the flip tops they had a ton of complaints cause of the older pots sealing themselves shut

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I use GW Chaos Black for priming 15mm miniatures, Vallejo white primer for Malifaux.

Tamiya for 15mm vehicle base colours and german camo.

All the above applied with an air brush.

Vallejo paints for brush work.

GW washes.

I have a couple of P3 and Citadel pots that are more in what I would call 'fantasy' colour ranges.

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I own paints from Reaper, P3, Vallejo Game & Model and the now defunct Derivan range. I recently had to throw out all my GW paints because they'd all dried out over the course of 3 years. I'm currently loving P3 paints but each have their positives and negatives.

Reaper triads make it easy for lazy painters to achieve a highlighted look without having to mix paints. I would literally paint from the darkest to lightest colour and maybe add some white in at the very end if I was bothered. Unfortunately, I have found that some of the colours are thick and some are incredibly thin.

P3 paints are incredibly opaque which makes it easier to paint armies quickly. White and yellow go over black undercoats with no problem whatsoever and you can thin the paints down with water without the pigments clinging to the edge. I personally dislike the P3 metallics range. It's very prone to splitting, it's thick and dries out quickly (as in the entire pot is dry, even when it was new and sealed).

Vallejo Game colour offers a one to one colour correspondence with GW colours. When I first ditched GW these were the paints that I was using but I quickly became frustrated by their watery-ness (which is actually quite good for particular methods of painting).

Vallejo Model colour is thicker than Game colour and offers an unbeatable range of colours, particularly colours that are true to WWI-II. Technically speaking, I should be in love with Model colour but I'm not sure why, I just don't...My first paint in this range was a flesh colour and it took so long to dry...I'd go to lay on a second layer and the first layer would peel off. And then there were the annoying blockages in the squeeze bottles...the amount of times I've exploded paint onto myself :P...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Most of my colours are Vallejo Model Colour, but I have some "bright" colour from the Game range too. Other than that, I _love_ GW metalics and washes, Tamiya Clear Red for blood effects, and the old Rackham paints range for skin tones, "fluorescent" colours and some of the most beautiful greens and blues I've ever seen. :)

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