redben Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 These might be some naive questions but humour me. Do the base inserts Wyrd do slide into the slot for mini on the bases and do the inserts themselves have slots to place a mini on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudders Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 They fit into the round lipped bases, which have a slot but the inserts don't have slots - basically you chop off the insert on the bottom of the model and topically pin through the base into a leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redben Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Pinning is sadly beyond my appalling modelling skills. There goes that shortcut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudders Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Its not too bad - you can pick up a handheld drill and bits including suitable pinning material for less than £10 - just pick a meaty bit of metal to drill into for your first attempt. Drill into the model and then use superglue to put a length of pinning material in. Pop a dab of paint of the bottom of the pin and place it on top of the base so the paint leaves a mark to show where to drill through. Drill through the base, cut the length of the pin down and bend it under the base for extra security. The whole process should only take about 10 - 15 minutes. Sounds like a good opportunity to get a new skill to me! Good luck if you give it a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Or you can just use some Gorilla Glue and hope for the best. That's how I roll. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Another way, which I have been doing is to trim nearly all of the tab off apart from a couple of mm underneath a foot. Take a needle file and round the remains of the tab to form a peg. Drill a hole through the insert with a suitably tiny drill bit, you might need to enlarge it with the end of a needle file, probably easier to make the hole fit the peg rather than the other way around. A tab of superglue and you are done. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radium Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Or you can just use some Gorilla Glue and hope for the best. That's how I roll. So do I. I hate pinning with a passion, so I almost never do it. I just file the feet of the mini smooth and glue them to the inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redben Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 So do I. I hate pinning with a passion, so I almost never do it. I just file the feet of the mini smooth and glue them to the inserts. Do they stay on okay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Eh. It's not so much that I hate pinning. I LOATHE pinning. I don't have the patience for it. That and NMMs. So little patience to learn to do NMMs correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Igor Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Another trick you can use is to place a small bit of porous paper (coffee filter for instance) between the two surfaces you wish to glue. This strengthens the glue bonding quite a bit. You can even burn off excess paper with a lighter. This has been a technique I've been using with great success for 20 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Another trick you can use is to place a small bit of porous paper (coffee filter for instance) between the two surfaces you wish to glue. This strengthens the glue bonding quite a bit. You can even burn off excess paper with a lighter. This has been a technique I've been using with great success for 20 years.Huh. Paper, eh? I'll have to give this a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bucket_boy101 Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Wouldn't the glue burn too, and make you h...I mean smell real funny? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Igor Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Not if you use a cyanoacrylate and wait for it to dry first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 cyanoacrylate You cyanoacrylate. You brought her. Seriously, though. Which glues are cyanoacrylates? For reference, I usually use Gorilla Glue or Locktite brand super-glue.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Igor Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Super glue like GW, privateer press, and locktite should be. I don't know if gorilla glue is, but I don't think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CannibalBob Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Super glue like GW, privateer press, and locktite should be. I don't know if gorilla glue is, but I don't think so. All "super glue" is a cyanoacrylate glue. It is the active ingredient in the glue. Gorilla Glue is not so much a type of glue as it is a brand of glues (same as Loctite, Krazy glue, etc). They make lots of different types, including a super-glue (blue top). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radium Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Do they stay on okay? Yes. My Colette has been dropped off the table and such, and she's never come off the base yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 I'm a pinner, I've had too many models fall apart after they've been painted to take short cuts, but a couple of guys in my gaming group swear by Zap-a-Gap. It's a brand of glue available from Modelzone in the UK. I have to say that it appears to be pretty effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 I'm a pinner, I've had too many models fall apart after they've been painted to take short cuts, but a couple of guys in my gaming group swear by Zap-a-Gap. It's a brand of glue available from Modelzone in the UK. I have to say that it appears to be pretty effective.I've seen it. You can get it at hardware stores in the US. (Home Depot/Lowes). My FLGS sells it, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowopal Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Another pinning trick to get your model to line up with the holes you drill in the base is to get some poster-tack putty. I get mine at the hardware store. but, it should be available at office supply places too. It's a little tricky to find as most employees don't even realize it exists. But, I've heard it called Blu Tack as well. It's used to put posters up on the wall. Anyway, this stuff is cool because it stick lightly. So, you drill your pin holes in the model. Then you put you poster tack putty down on the base and press it firmly down. Then you position your fig where you want and push it into the putty. You may need to hold the putty down a bit when you remove the fig as it tends to get stuck in the holes in the feet of your model. Then you just drill where the little bumps are in the putty. and glue your pin in. I pin EVERYTHING. I pin arms, I pin base inserts into the bases. I pin feet into the base inserts. I pin heads. I even pin the manequin arms in place. Pinning is really simple. It takes some patience and some really tiny drill bits. But, my guys and gals are solid. It's always funny to watch people gingerly pick up my figs at demos to move them. Then I smack over the figs and drop them just to show they won't come apart and they still pick them up like they are fragile little eggs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinistercats Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 "superglue" tends to be on the brittle side I've found. It can shatter if dropped just right. Gorilla Glue makes a Glue that has some rubber (i believe) in the formula to try to add some "give" to the joint. It seems to work pretty well. I do still pin everything I can though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swarsmike Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 "superglue" tends to be on the brittle side I've found. It can shatter if dropped just right. Gorilla Glue makes a Glue that has some rubber (i believe) in the formula to try to add some "give" to the joint. It seems to work pretty well. I do still pin everything I can though. I use a superglue made by a comPany called bob smith industries. They long ago fixed the brittle issue to the point I have models 10 years old thAt are still as strong as the day they were assembled. They may still make a glue that has rubber in it for added stability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
U.S. Male Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 Another trick you can use is to place a small bit of porous paper (coffee filter for instance) between the two surfaces you wish to glue. This strengthens the glue bonding quite a bit. You can even burn off excess paper with a lighter. This has been a technique I've been using with great success for 20 years. Well that's a new idea. Never heard of anything like that before. But if it'll help me get the peacekeeper together without pinning the arms, that's great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
U.S. Male Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 "superglue" tends to be on the brittle side I've found. It can shatter if dropped just right. Gorilla Glue makes a Glue that has some rubber (i believe) in the formula to try to add some "give" to the joint. It seems to work pretty well. I do still pin everything I can though. I use gorilla wood glue all the time, and I've got some of the original industrial, water-activated glue. But that doesn't seem appropriate for minis. Is there another kind that I'm not aware of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 I use gorilla wood glue all the time, and I've got some of the original industrial, water-activated glue. But that doesn't seem appropriate for minis. Is there another kind that I'm not aware of? They make a super glue, and their regular glue is pretty good (but has to be used pre-paint since it foams up at the join). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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