Halflingspy Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hey all - I finally got my first army, Colette and her army of dolls... now its time to put them on the bases proper. Does anyone know if those wooden bases in all of the pictures for them are buy-able anywhere, or are those made with green stuff? And if they are made with green stuff, any tips on how? I've never used green stuff before, and am feeling a little intimidated about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scurry Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 there is a video here that shows how to make them: http://wyrd-games.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18399 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoboStele Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 I got mine from Mystic Hobby Studios. They are awesome, and were relatively cheap. And the customer service at MHS was superb as well. http://www.mystichobbygames.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaane Feinwong Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 (edited) Just pay a visit to the coffee section of your local grocery store, pick up a big box of birchwood stirs and then head over to the hardware area and get some wood glue, super glue and sandpaper. I make all of mine from actual wood. you can use popcycle sticks, but you'll probably want to split them a few times. I just paint mine and skip the stain. I've done some with stain and they don't come out any better. Just water down some paint of your choice (gray or burnt umber) and you should be fine. Chances are you have something around the house that will be just fine for bases. I've even used wood glue and coffee grounds before for an earthy dirt look. Edited February 18, 2011 by Kaane Feinwong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 I do something similar to Kaane Feinwong, however I use balsa (or bass) wood from the craft stores. These will usually be to wide, however a sharp knife fixes that real well. Here is a tip though, dont cut all the way thru the wood, just sort of score the top (be sure to throw in both "with the grain" and stagard "against the grain" cuts). It helps when gluing, yet still gives the individual board look. After that stain it with some dark wash or glaze color (be sure to let is dry). After that dry brush on the final color and your done (unless you want that polished wood floor look, in which case you will need to throw on a few layers of mixed gloss/ matte medium). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Personally I love using Cherry Veneer strips from Lee Valey (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=40840&cat=1,250,43217) they are awesome, just watch when glueing them on, if you get white glue on them you might not be able to stain/paint them as well as you'd like. They are simple to paint, just take a wash eg GW sepia, and paint it on, instant wood planks. I'll try to get some pictures I'm going to try to get these bases on my McMourning crew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melnibonean Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 I sell them here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvatarForm Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 I sell them here. I was about to suggest Fiendish Fabrications... but Mel beat me to it... +1000 for those tasty themed bases Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halflingspy Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Walked into a coffeeshop, grabbed 8-9 thin popsicle-stick like stirrers, going to try tonight. Its my first try actually converting/building anything, so a bit nervous to see if I'm up to the task. Thanks for the advice everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowbeast Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 I just use the ones from Back 2Base-ix, the same as on my maritime figures for Warmachine. You have to take care not to use the ones which are too scrappy, I think there are neat ones and rotten ones. Iron Halo, Micro Art and others should have plank bases. Green Stuff should be no trouble at all, just scribe the lines and brush with a wire brush to make grain. Dot with pin for nail holes. Regarding wood, my experience with making rollingstock with real wood decking is that you stain them before any other chemical; I used some GW and P3 inks. To stain after gluing will give light spots where the colouring is not accepted, due to the glue being soaked into the wood. Ozsteam gives a quite detailed recipe for staining... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 I sell them here. I'm gonna suggest these to because that has got to be the most shameless of shameless plugs in the history of shamelessness. They look cool too. You can practice working with greenstuff by filling gaps in your models joints and making little platforms for their feet to stand on on bases when you base them if you cut off the tabs and use gravel, snow and such. The biggest tip I ever got was wait 5-15 minutes for it to start setting before you work with it as well as keep anything you don't want to stick to it VERY wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halflingspy Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 I don't have green stuff yet, but I hope to soon - I spent like an hour trying to figure out how to do with the popsicle stirrers and scissors, which was tough. I know Malifaux would be cheap, but suddenly wanting exacto-blades, modelling clay... its adding up fast! Can't complain though, makes me feel accomplished. Used scissors to cut down the stirrers, trial-and-error patching into place after that. Once I got it to fit the base, I took a sharp knife point and make cuts, then used an ink wash to stain the wood to look worn. Put on a little gloss varnish... I'll have a picture of it soon up, once I figure out how to upload it right - I know its far from perfect, but its a start.... which brings me to my next newb question - how the hell do I get off the metal base of the mini so I can glue the legs to the new flooring I've added? Well, without snapping my new mini in half that is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanislav Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 I'm gonna have to give a thumbs down to the Back-2_Basix ones. Their mold quality in my opinion has gone to crap. I have been meaning to try FF, just haven't gotten ahead enough in the painting department to try. They look nice, I have just gotten burned last time I ordered the B2B ones so I am a little gun-shy. I love Dragonforge, he just doesn't have any true planking ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaane Feinwong Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) I know its far from perfect, but its a start.... which brings me to my next newb question - how the hell do I get off the metal base of the mini so I can glue the legs to the new flooring I've added? Well, without snapping my new mini in half that is... That's the best way, a slow start that is. I think I made three or four bases before I actually put a model on one. After twenty or thirty models and tokens later, I had tried different styles and found what I like best. Now it's easy but I do have some models that I probably should go back and re-base. As far as your sticking your mini onto the base, you have two options. 1: Cut off the entire bottom tab with a pair of cutters and then trim anything else down with your hobby knife or 2: Cut enough to leave a "pin" or wedge and then cut that into the wood to glue it. Do whatever you feel comfortable with. Be sure to pick you up some of these mini-clamps or something like them. They will be invaluable in holding together your wood designs and a few models to boot. A pair of Forceps (hemostat) too while you are at it. You can get those at almost any hobby store. Great for clamping onto a model while you paint it. Edited February 21, 2011 by Kaane Feinwong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halflingspy Posted February 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Okay, model prepped, the base created and stained using Sepia ink wash (GW) and then a little gloss varnish. Realized a few things - one, I needed to cut into my own base to put in the metal clip underneath. This model would be a little unsteady just on her feet alone, since they are so close together, and I also wanted to see if I could pull it off. Found wire cutters, cut the bit down to size, and an old (probably too dull for this) knife and slowly whittled a hole to fit it in. Some bad things learned here... -One, I crushed my dancer's outstretched hand in the wirecutters by complete accident, giving it more of a lobster-claw appearance. -Two, Really hard to slot this in, then glue it in place. Got impatient and bent the model right under the knees... slooowly got it back in place, painted over it. Whew! So, obviously a newb, and the model isn't fully painted yet (blue/white color scheme though) as you can see. Also... can't get my camera to focus on small minis it seems, going to have to fiddle with my manual mode for a bit. I'm hoping that after a LOT of trial-and-error (this took way too long), the next will be easier, and since their feet are not so pointed in the same place, I can clip off the bottoms and glue them in naturally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buhallin Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 A couple of suggestions: Do you have wirecutters, or side cutters? Most standard wirecutters V both sides of the cut. Side cutters have one side flat and the other with all the angle, so you end up with a clean(er) cut on the side towards the model. Can make a big difference. Also, I'd highly suggest getting a pin vise and pinning the model to the base. It's far easier than trying to cut/drill holes with a knife. You can use brass rod for the pins, but honestly I use paperclips and they work just fine. Just get a nice small drill bit, practice a bit, and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halflingspy Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Thanks Buhallin for the advice - I'm getting real wirecutters when I head to the store on Thursday, although I'm frustrated because I want these done BEFORE I go so I can... gah, chicken or the egg I suppose. Pinning is something I've been afraid of for a long, long time. I'm still working on modelling, painting, and light conversion work for now... pinning comes later I think! Finished all six bases, got a lot faster and quicker at it - thanks for all the advice guys, I think I'll be moving this to a painting-work-in-progress thread now that these bases are done. Did I mention I love the amount of help you can get around here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. Footman Posted February 23, 2011 Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 looks good so far, looking forward to seeing them thursday I gotta take pics of my McMournings myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exploding youth Posted February 23, 2011 Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 We also make some plain planking ones: http://shop.battlebunker.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211&products_id=4071 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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