Looking for new needle files

[Hinton]

The set of needle files I have are starting to show some wear and tear, so I'm looking to pick up a new set. I've looked at Micro-mark and some other places, but I can't tell what "grade" of grit they are; they're listed as "Coarse", "Medium" and "Fine".

I've also started using sandpaper (400 and 600 grit) to smooth out rough areas and the file marks, but it's kind of difficult to reach into small areas. I've tried gluing a small piece of sand paper to a toothpick, but it still doesn't quite work.

Basically, I'm looking for files that are in the 320 to 600 grit range. Anyone know of anything like that and where I might be able to find a set?

Or even some kind of tips?

Thanks in advance.

[goblyn13]

you'll want to stick to Fine grit, unless you really like to take details off.

This is a decent set of straight needle files:

10 piece Diamond files

If you want to get those really hard to reach places, you might want to look into a set of Riffler files as well

Riffler Files

Or if your looking for something a bit less expensive:

Gale force 9 file set Its worth it to get the ones with the little plastic covers over the end unless you plan to put the needle file into a holder (your hands will thank you)

Edited September 12, 2008 by goblyn13

[Ritual]

You want the diamond needle files! Yep, they will cost you, but it's the same as with buying a quality brush... they'll last you a long time and will not be expensive in the end considering how much use you've got out of a single set.

[Coneman]

Heresey miniatures sells a great set of 10 miniature diamond files, only 100mm long, fine grit with nice pointy ends for getting into those tight spots.

Not sure of the actual grit but its reasonably fine.

[GreyHorde]

I'd like to get that riffler set linked by goblyn13 for the odd angles, but that's down the road a bit. For now, I can vouch for the GF9's, they're handy little suckers. On some surfaces, though, if you want the super smooth look with no tool marks, follow them up with very fine sandpaper or some other polishing device. I have used a Dremel with polishing bits, the cone-shaped ones for jewelry. The fine points wear off almost instantly, though, so the next step might be these jeweler's synthetic rubber polishing pins. I've heard good things about them, but have not had the cash to order & try them out for myself. Hope that helps...

[Wren]

I like a nice set of small diamond needle files. Finding a good quality of said has been a challenge. By small I mean 2mm diameter, which usually means 4 inches in length. The usual ones I see are 4mm diameter and 5 inches in length. The length doesn't really make any difference, but that smaller diameter makes a big difference in being able to get into the nooks and crannies. I've tried a bunch of cheap and even a few less cheap options I found online. Some are decent.

The best set I have I purchased at the Reaper factory store during Reaper Con. I believe these are made by Rio Grande. You can order from these guys online, but you first need to set up a customer number and get a catalogue or something. Since I went to Reaper Con again this year I just picked up a backup set there. I like these files enough that I'd probably go through all this arcane procedure to replace them. A set of 10 or so different shapes cost $20 at Reaper, not sure if they added a little bit because they had to order it from another company, which would be reasonable.

[Hinton]

Thanks for the replies and info, everyone.

On some surfaces, though, if you want the super smooth look with no tool marks, follow them up with very fine sandpaper or some other polishing device.

Yeah, that's pretty much what I'm looking for if I can find it in a needle file set or some kind of device that I can easily attach small pieces of the 400 and 600 grit sandpaper to so that I can easily get into the tight areas.

I might try a few different sets out and see what works best.

Thanks again, all.

[matty1001]

Just try buffing the models up after filling with some wire wool, just do it lightly and it removes all the little scratches, and gets into nooks and crannies.

Next step...crack open the brasso!

Peace and love...

[Nathan Caroland]

Been a long bit Matty, good to see you back.

[Hinton]

Been a long bit Matty, good to see you back.

Ditto that. Where the heck have you been?

And I've tried buffing with steel wool (grade 0000), but I must be doing something wrong; it just tears, shreads and leaves steel wool dust everywhere. Any tips on using it properly?

[Wren]

I buff with the Dremel, there's a bristle wheel attachment thingy which I'll look up if you have a Dremel.

[matty1001]

I'v been living in Spain (Malaga) for the past 3 month and will be here until Jan, and as such I don't get much access to the net. But I do pop in from time to time.

Hinton, I just tear off small pieces, scrunch up into a little ball and the buff lightly.

But whatever you do, don't ask your Mother to do it whilst you are busy. Unless you want a lovely Enigma gnome with featureless face!

Peace and love...

[Hinton]

I buff with the Dremel, there's a bristle wheel attachment thingy which I'll look up if you have a Dremel.

I have a Dremel knock-off; pretty much the same thing (rotary tool) without the name.

I'v been living in Spain (Malaga) for the past 3 month and will be here until Jan, and as such I don't get much access to the net. But I do pop in from time to time.

Hinton, I just tear off small pieces, scrunch up into a little ball and the buff lightly.

Oh, ok; thought maybe something had happened to you.

Thanks for the tip; I'll try that.

[Wren]

Here's the tip I use. It is a fine, end stage kind of thing, I still need to file and sand down the mould lines and rough patches, but it gives a nice fine finish as the final step. It also gives the mini a uniform shine, so I can more easily spot if I've missed lines and pin holes and stuff. I test it on the bottom of the mini to make sure it's not actually gouging. Some metal mixes definitely seem to be a little softer. I set it on 9 or 10 (maximum setting on my Stylus) for Reaper minis, less for most of the boutique brands.

One downside is it throws off the little metal 'hairs' and they can get into your clothes and poke you in a very annoying fashion. Wear eye protection and a smock or old sheet or something.

[GreyHorde]

Here's the tip I use. It is a fine, end stage kind of thing, I still need to file and sand down the mould lines and rough patches, but it gives a nice fine finish as the final step. It also gives the mini a uniform shine, so I can more easily spot if I've missed lines and pin holes and stuff. I test it on the bottom of the mini to make sure it's not actually gouging. Some metal mixes definitely seem to be a little softer. I set it on 9 or 10 (maximum setting on my Stylus) for Reaper minis, less for most of the boutique brands.

One downside is it throws off the little metal 'hairs' and they can get into your clothes and poke you in a very annoying fashion. Wear eye protection and a smock or old sheet or something.

Interesting...I have two similar items in different types of metal. They came with the unit and I've only used one for removing paint from a small area on a piece of wood. Never tried either on a mini, though; figured it would remove detail. Maybe it's time to try them out on the bottom of a mini or two, a shield or something from the bitz box. Thanks, Wren!

[Hinton]

Many thanks for the info, Wren!

I gave it a try this morning, although I was a bit concerned. The last time I tried using a Dremel on a mini (to remove an integrated base), a tiny little slip and half the mini was gone.

Using the tip you mentioned, however, gave some great results! I tried it out on several different minis (starting with one that I didn't really mind if I ground away details) and they really shine now. The tip really smoothes things out without taking away the detail. I'll definitely be using this in the future at the end stage of prep work.

Think I'll also look into getting a set of the riffler files that goblyn mentioned. They look like they can get into the nooks and crannies a lot better than the set I have now.

[Wren]

I bought my Dremel to remove integral bases, though I now use it far more often for the buffing. I found the base removal had a bit of a learning curve. There's an optimal setting for each metal mix and you need to go slow and steady and sort of shave the base away, trying to remove the metal relatively evenly, the tip will bounce if it hits a big bump. Mine has to be moved in a motion towards you. (Which is just stunned because then you get covered in the shavings.) It's likely the style and size of the Stylus make it a little easier to control. I also found it helpful to use one of these grips, which I picked up at Lowes. I thought it was only $6, but the size seems to be the same as mine so either I'm misremembering or there was some steep inflation the past couple of years. Anyway, depending on the pose of the mini you can face them head and detail downwards so the cushions of the grips block the Dremel tip if you slip. It's not foolproof, but it helps a lot.

[Hinton]

I got so paranoid after ruining the one mini with the Dremel that picked up a jewelers saw for removing integral bases.

Could probably use one of those grips though; have to see about picking one up.

[absolute_d]

Hell I still use Dykes and a flat file. I just don't have an optimal space to hang my dremel from. I only use it anymore when I need to buff or set really deep pins.

Oz