Treehouse

I didn't see that. That's a very cool idea. With Dreamer, you could summon the Bandersnatch and with Otherworldy chain-activate it and let it Crawl. Keeps it safe too. And since the Rougarou is a minion, you have plenty of healing in Dreamer's crew. Also the Daydreams for -1WP.

Right, missed that one, the target does the walk action itself...oh well.

Right....so Hungering Darkness comes to mind. Or Lures as well. Or just lure more enemies close before doing Alpha's Challenge for creating more WIP duels. Though I'm not sure if the AP efficiency is there. Come to think of it, with Lilith or Waldgeists you could entangle a target to give it Rooted, then do the challenge, this way a model gets 3 damage more.

Cool, thanks a lot! Mhm, I guess I could cut out the legs from the sculpted base and touch up the hole with putty. I'd have to do something to the base anyway after taking away all the interesting stuff.

I'm thinking about getting some Rougarous but don't have the Titania (yet). So I've ben thinking about the other masters I've got. Dreamer: Well, Daydreams are aura 4" -1 WP, the Rougarous Challenge of the Alpha is pulse 4" resist WP, so that could be a thing. Maybe in Turfwar also, especially if you have a Widow Weaver. Though then you would want to place the Rougarou outside the Turf War area if possible to lure models outside. It might also be worthwhile to summon in Lelu next to the Rougarou, then activating the wolf via Otherworldly, trying to lure people in for double pounce by wolf and Lelu. (I think I'll try that. Possibly move some Daydreams close first.) Pandora: The wolf's Challenge in combination with Misery aura of Pandora and possibly Sorrows could be really mean. You could run Iggy in there first and Throw A Fit, for -2 WIP. Then have the Rougarou close to Pandora and hopefully get many models close (especially if Dora has Fears). Any combis you have used/theoryfauxed of?

Thanks GMort for the ongoing unboxings! I appreciate that a lot, especially being able to see the models in plastic not just render, before buying. One question: Is it possible to assemble the Changlings and plants as single models? Well, one Changling is in a plant...but the rest? I was thinking of using the Changlings form the Emissary's base as 'alternative' Changelings and the plants for its Hungry Land markers.

If you get to the point where it makes a difference for you whether the consistency is whole milk, skim milk, soj or pumpkin spice latte, you are most likely at a point where you don't need advice on how far to thin down your paint. Hence, 'consistency of milk' is a fair enough average to work with.

Right you are

What I meant was taking the upgrades on two different non-master models as by the given restrictions.

Depends. If you are countering a sheme that is usually performed by enemy shemerunners - who tend to be on the lighter side - it is not as important. Also models that are hard to hit, because of terror duels, manipulative etc. can be good Malifaux Provides targets. The Doppelganger is perfect. Concerning Lynch / his crew, something came to my mind. It's not competitive and more gimmicky, but it's there if there is a window of opportunity (also has nothing to do with Malifaux Provides, but Thousand Faces): If you take 2x A Thousand Faces and you are planning to hit big with Lynch's Final Dept, you could theoretically swap both Thousand Faces for Pact and draw a card. You then activate Lynch last, draw 2 extra cards. That's plus 4 cards. If you drew a couple of aces, lets say 2, you could have 12 cards in hand. It's totally nothing to plan on or probably not even worth it - but maybe if the opportunity arises to outright kill a Teddy or likewise, it might be a nasty surprise.

About Mei Feng, I was actually a bit disappointed when I read Shifting Loyalties because I deemed her to be a rough but good person. But now she's using a doctor to reattach fingers she has cut off herself so she could do it all over again if the protection money doesn't come flowing? Damn. And Lynch, yes, he does seem more of a guy you would feel sorry for, but on the other hand he seems to have no troubles turning people into addicts of magical crack and then uses them to fulfill contracts or get consumed by Huggy. He is a tragic person, but in the end he is still just thinking baout himself. I'd say altogether that the faction's masters can be 'sorted' into good(ish) and bad, while the aims/heads/beliefs of all factions (except Gremmies :P) are evil in various definitions. Gremmies - now that I think of it - are actual as good as it gets in Malifaux for a whole faction, I guess. They have powerhungry individuals (Somer) but mostly stick to themselves/their families. And Ulix just likes his pigs. He is basically Malifaux's Peta. But luckily with clothes on. Gremlins loot and plunder and will kill, but don't have an agenda of exploitation, deceit and murder like the other factions.

So it basically does three things: - make a model last longer (if sheme markers are available) - makes it better at removing enemy sheme marker (you can remove a marker even if at full health) - get rid of paralyzed etc. (if this is worth it, I don't know)

@Sybaris: I have no experience with Titania whatsoever, neither have I read her card thoroughly, so I can't comment on this. But I understand that the whole Fae crew is ace in dropping markers, so yes, that does make sense. @Redline: Mhm, true. Also because of (0) Revel in Reclamation he should be plenty fast to get to enemy markers to remove them from game via Malifaux Provides. ------------ Lelu and Lilitu: Just brainstorming on this one, but if you take them both, each will heal from it. So you could get - say - Lilitu into the thick of things with Fears Given Form (which idealy was A Thousand Faces first and you swapped it before going in) and her +1 on all duels to really tie up models. Then, Lelu as a flanking denial piece drops sheme markers and eats them to heal Lilitu. (But that actually lets me question the rules: You apparently can heal even with full health - hence being able to remove sheme markers even at full health. But I guess only actual healing is shared, so if Lelu is at full health when eating a marker and thus won't heal, Lilitu woudln't heal as well. What do you think?)

He's really mean with Brawler Pandora. Especially if you also take Sorrow(s). Since he can force the opponent to degend with WP instead of DF, you will get extra Dmg because of Miery aura(s). Up to three times, even. If you have a strategy were its a good idea to take the Widow Weaver too, you can also make Bishops attacks harder to resist. It might even make the Poltergeist a valid choice with his 'Distract', but I'v enever tried that. He could be a nice beater in a dreamer crew because of the Daydreams aura, and Teddy's smell fear, but then again, he's not a minion and really expensive, so I don't really see him there. He might be nice with models with Pounce nearby because of his push-trigger, but that again is probably not worth to set up.

Yeah, you really don't have any reason not to take Thousand Faces if you are going for a 1 SS upgrade anyway. It's nice if you can switch gears and what I just thought of, it will make Fears Given Form easier to organise with your own deployment. Say, if you want FGF on Lilitu, Huggy etc. simply give the model TF instead and don't worry about activations. This way, for example, Graves can activate next to Huggy and Show Him The Door without the Df duel. Then, when activating Huggy, switch to FGF, maybe even just in the second turn, as needed.

Hi, I was thinking about good uses for Malifaux Provides and would like to ask whom you usually stick it on to. Here's what I've done so far: Doppelganger Being able to lay down a marker even if engaged and use it to heal is very nice, used it in Bodyguard. Hungering Darkness Have used it once on him for anti-sheme running as you can use any sheme marker and don't need to be wounded to heal (at least that's what I've learned in another threat). You could also Heed My Voice of an enemy to let it lay a marker for you if you are low on wounds (enemy model considers Huggy friendly, so they don't count as engaged). It might be better than hitting said enemy because of +1 cast and no trigger needed. Teddy While it might safe his fluffy bottom and lets him do some sheme-denial by removing enemy markers, I'm quite undecided on this one. I guess he benefits more from Retributions Eye but I'll have to try it out more. Cherub While he can't take it, he can let others lay a sheme marker as a (0) action, basically handing out a free heal. Might be too much of a hassle though.

Just with black and grey, I think there won't be much of a difference, as the white creates the high contrasts.

I've tried different methods and tend to switch alot and try out new methods or order of stages, but here's what I find useful: 1) Brush: As Butch stated, size doesn't matter so much (well, for very small details or quite large areas you might want different sizes) but the quality of the brush, in particular its ability to keep a pointed tip and to hold a good amount of paint without distributing it in one go. I Use Windsor&Newton Miniatures Series 7 #1 as well and have never looked back. Fantastic brush, and actually cheaper if you consider taht you can use it a looon time. Make sure to use brush soap or a similar way to properly clean it. Just using water won't get rid of all pigments and they will keep accumulating where the brush meets the .... metal thingy...don't know the English name for it. I use The Masters Brush Soap - awesome stuff. http://www.artdiscount.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/460x458/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/m/a/masters_brush_cleaner1229951235_68.jpg 2) Consistency of paint: The longer I've been painting, the thinner I like to have my paints. Mostly. Sometimes for a quicker paintjob using layers from dark to light I like them a bit thicker. But mostly they'll have to have the consistency of milk the way I like to paint right now. This way, the layers underneath will shine through and you can get good blends with it. I mostly use shading and glazing for my Malifaux miniatures, that's why it works for me. 3) Applying paint: As already stated by other posters - load the brush with paint but don't float it or dunk it into the paint. Try to keep the area where the bristles meet the metal clip (?) free of paint. Then unload the brosh on a paper towel or a piece of cloth etc. by gently pushing the bottom of the brush (not the pointy tip) sideways against said towel. Reapeat if needed. Avoid puddles of paint on your miniature or pushing the paint in a way that it leaves an 'edge'/'border' --- you can use a second dry brush or q Q-Tip to get rid of too much/unwanted paint. (Also washes and inks, to bring out the layer underneath again) 4) Shading, Glazing, Washing Shading: Use paint to darken/shade specific areas of a miniature. Don't only use black, try to find a darker colour of your base tone and mix that in too. Washing (with Inks): Use paint to darken/shade the whole miniature or entire parts, i.e. a piece of cloth, metallic parts etc. The paint is meant to float into gaps but will also darken/dying the layer underneath. Washing (with Washes): Again, broader area but paint has way less pigments and is not supposed to dye/darken the parts but instead mostly float into gaps. Of course, Washes and Inks can be used for specific areas or details as well as 'blacklining' etc. too. Glazing: Use very thinned down paint to dye areas of a model. For example, apply purple, blue and green hues to skin colour. Think of it as a filter like you use for photografy. For example, I've done the purple hues on my Hungering Darkness using glazes: 5) What I do: Right now, I try to paint fast but with a quality I'm content with. It also has to look good on the tabletop. For this I think you need high contrasts of light and dark as well as of colours. First, I spray-prime my models with black from underneath, then with grey from the side and then with white from the top. In this way, you create lights and shadows even before painting. (Even better used with an air brush, sadly I don't have one - for example, Orco Negro's miniatures in your example were painted with help of an airbrush as it looks like). Then, I apply the base colours. Very much thinned down and in a darker tone as they are supposed to be later, as the white will lighten up the paint quite a bit. You could kind of play it like this already (with the white parts dyed of course) and it would look OK, albeit quite faint. Then I apply more shades to the darker areas. The nice thing is that using this method, you'll don't have to think about were the shades and lights have to be that much. A lot of the work has been done by the base coat. After the shading, I apply thin highlights and then a wash to tie the layers together. Sometimes I then add a final highlight. Some more WIPs: These were quick paintjobs. If you add more layers and apply them more carefully, you can get more detailed and smoother results, like below. (The skin has glazes in the shades for example)