Webmonkey

agreed,.. they look nice but a little bland. Higher highlights will help,.. but I would suggest watching some old black and white movies. You'll notice that it isn't just black and white,.. but a 1000 different subtle shades of grey. (what should be green (tree leaves etc) shows up as one shade of grey,.. the brown tree trunk as another grey,.. the red scarf the hero is wearing is yet another shade of grey,..etc,..) These small variations will add life to the pieces.

It looks awesome. (though if I may suggest, try using the macro function on your camera. Might help it not be so blurry and out of focus in places)

My only complaint is that the initial release only really covers playing the game from a "Guild" perspective,.. so to speak. There aren't any rules for playing the things that interest me (ie: Gremlins, Neverborn,..etc) These will likely be released as later edition stuff,.. but still,.. being that Guild is probably my least favorite faction, it makes it hard to want to play.

ok,.. finished base-coating the flesh, and took an extra moment to do the eyes and eyebrows. Next up,... the Pastel Skin Shading Tutorial!!!

To that end, I suppose that I should apologize in advance to the fans of Alita. Having never seen the comic, I have no clue what she looks like. My colors are sure to be all wrong. But hopefully you guys can enjoy it just the same, and not hate me forever because of it

it is an Alita model,.. Like I said,.. I think the name of this one is Alita Rebirth or Alita Reborn,.. but it's all written in Thai or whatever,.. so I can't be sure. You should check out the shading tutorial when I get it up and running.

ok,.. just a few more base coats of skin tone,.. and then I think that I'll be ready to start shooting the tutorial this weekend. (need to figure out some video editing software though,.. and find some place to host it. Youtube maybe??)

well done, as always.

And a peek at the direction the cyborg bits are taking,..

as always,.. don't judge until it's finished,..lol

ok,.. so the colors on the wing aren't coming out quite the way I'm seeing them in my head. I'm gonna have to do some more tweaking of the color and patterns until I get what I want, or may even need to change direction completely. But in the mean-time,... here's a bit of a sneak-peek at the main body,.. (still in green stuff and sanding phase, of course)

So then,... in a completely irrelevent topic thread,... I was posed an interesting question today, and thought that I'd pass it along to you guys,... Batman vs. Darth Vader Who wins???,.....

Threadomancy: casting a spell that causes fabric to sew itself together,...

There are no inherent rules against ressurecting an old thread. (I do it all the time) If the thread was locked, it's likely that it had degenerated into fight between posters, or some other form of unacceptable/offensive material. As such, the thread was likely locked to stop the fighting, and the offensive material removed. (which is why you no longer see a reason why it was locked, as that reason has been removed) Hope this helped.

give it a go,.. you might be surprised at how well it works.

A trick I learned with my GW Dark Elves,... deploy further back. Most people, (when given a 10" deployment zone for example) will place their army as far forward and up against the line as possible. I learned that simply pulling back that extra 3" made all the difference. It makes for a whole other turn to get in range,.. and leaves them standing there, 3" in front of you, to get shot in the face at your discretion.

It might also be that I'm getting to be an old man these days. The vast majority of the MTG crowd and whatever (at least around here) tend to be somewhat younger then I am. Don't get me wrong, I remember being that young. But the topics of conversation that they choose,.. well, lets just say that I'm past that point in my life where it has any relevance to me. Plus, I'm a painter first and a gamer second. I'm there more to show off my paint, and see other people's work, then I am to play a game. And if there's no one there to relate to,.. it make it hard for me to want to go.

I have the problem of the "card-floppers" have all but taken over my LGS. I only get weekend days to go and play, and it's always a MTG tournament, or (believe it or not) Yugi-oh is huge here. And even if the tournament isn't happening, they are all still there,.. and you kinda get back-handed dirty looks for daring to take up a table for terrain. (which admittedly, about 4 card players can game in the same space it takes just 2 mini gamers to play). But still,..

Teenage Mutant Ninja Gremlins???

Zelda themed vik crew,...

*pops in to say hi,.. and then toddles off to bed*

You are most welcome. (some day, I need to do a tutorial video so you can see it. I could try with my phone,.. but I'd prefer a camcorder, or better yet, a set of video recording glasses so that you can see it all from my perspective) (not sure that there'd be much call for such a video though)

alright,.. I covered most of this during the clockwork fairy, but here's the short version,.. airbrush and compressor (your choice of make(s) and model(s)) white primer (best undercoat for flesh tones, and a rattle-can is fine) greenstuff/greystuff vasoline (or whatever brand of petroleum jelly. this is used at the joints,.. apply to one side, then apply greenstuff to other surface. Mash both halves together, shape/smooth as necessary to fill any gaps, etc,... let dry. sand. The vasoline allows it be broken back apart easily enough so that you can paint the pieces later without having to worry about getting into any of those tight spaces that would otherwise show up if the pieces were fully assembled. After the pieces are broken apart again, clean off the jelly,.. prime, paint, glue and reassemble when ready) sandpaper (400 or even 600 grit) pastel sticks (easily purchased at any arts/crafts store for around $5 for a whole set. For skin shading, you'll want to use a red to reddish-brown tone. shave down into a powder. I like a two brush method,.. one to pick up and place the powder, and the other to smooth it out) Paint (any flesh tone will do, and may vary from model to model. But I find that I like Testors-Model Masters Acrylic 4601 Lt. Skin Tone. If you have to order it,.. be sure to get the Acrylic,.. they have the same tone in an oil base too 7601 I think. This will cause issues later on. Not only is the dry-time too long,.. but some other water based paints and various top-coats may not "play well" with the oil. Especially if the oil isn't dry and you try to use the pastels,.. it'll end up a wet-slimy-grainy mess)

Thanks for the thoughts guys. Some may work better then others. And I suppose its worth mentioning that the other wing is metal/mechanical

ok,.. finally got it to let me post. Not sure what the boggle was. Anyhow,.. here's a pic of the wings. It had a nasty gap in it where the two halves meet. (big enough to stick the business end of a screwdriver through). But I think I got the greenstuff blended in well enough that once I paint it,.. it should hide the seam well enough. The backside is a little rougher, but again, once I think it'll hide with paint. Anyways,.. here it is in primer stage. Now the question is, white??? or black???,... or perhaps a fade from white down through a dark brown at the tips. (I'm leaning towards this last one)