CannonFodder

Not quite, You are limited to 2 out of faction Mercenaries per crew. While Z is limited to 2 Merc (Including those 4WP or less) she is not limited to other models

Not 100% sure about triggers, I know its not a disengagement strike, but the ashigaru (book 4) have a trigger that triggers outside of normal activation. Also most trigger say "after damaging opponent...". But that is a side issue. I had a game the other day with Kaeris breaking away from Perdita who only had one wds left, when we hit this issue. Makes a bit of a difference in situations like this. ---------- Post added at 01:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:16 PM ---------- Also this link, I'm not sure applies. It refers to teh attacker can't do trigger, this is a defensive ability. http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread...l=1#post405071

The basic question is: Are Disengagement strikes considered Melee strikes? If yes, then if Kaeris is hit by a disengagement strike, your opponent takes 1 dmg, and burning token. Can someone confirm if this is true.

its best to double check but I think Henchmen can only lead in brawls, not scraps.

You really need to try Nurse using massive dose on a necropunk turn 1. You get to drop Killjoy and Better 29 inches from your deployment zone if you have 2 Masks in your starting hand. I've yet to see someone be happy about having 22 SS worth of melee beatsticks starting their activation in thier deployment zone after 80% of you crew have activated. Its safe to say that turn 1 you can easily take out 10-15SS worth of models. And turn 2 you are definitely using a SS to activate first.

I haven't seen anything to say you can't. If the kill from rancid transplant gives you the fifth BP then to me you make 2 Manifest requirements at the same time. What doesn't count are when you pick up a corpse from an enemy models and get 2 BP. Once a model becomes a corpse token it no longer is an enemy. Corpse tokens are neutral for game purposes and are never "from enemy models".

much appreciated.

if going for Mcm crew, I would first look at if I want the Avatar. If playing the avatar you want 2 flesh constructs, if not 1 and a rogue necromancy is enough. I find if you get a rogue necromancy you only get him, but its possible to get 2 flesh constructs then manifest giving you a fairly good set of beet sticks. Also note the I find Mcmourning has lost his edge compared some of the other master, and Avatar is really important for him to stay around. If you want to play the nurse at all I would try and get McTavish because he can gain reactivate and shrug off the effect after reactivating and not die. and when he dies he leave 3 corpse tokens. Sue is another alternative, but only 1 corpse token, and does nto have reckless. You will want at least 1 blister of cainine remains and the totem. 2 blister are not bad but you would probably want Mortimer if you do. I find Mortimer nice for the corpse token, but in rarly does much damage. But he usually stays around and used to take objectives or a turf war body. Core crew McMorning box (includes 2 nurses, Sebastien, flesh construct) Totem 2 canine remains (Second flesh construct + avatar ) OR Rogue necromancy Mctavish After that you get what you feel like playing, I tried to use a bell crew with him and it works fairly well (dead doxies & Rotten belles). I also have a crew for a mean turn 1 where a reactivated necro punk drops killjoy and bette noir 29 inches on the table turn one then activates. there is also the classic Rotten belles & Convicted gunslinger combo. Lure then rapid fire. From the looks of it you are starting resser and Malifaux in general. I would consider picking up McM & seamus boxes. They are my only 2 ressers master and I find the model pool for both of them can mix fairly well. Since you already have rotten belles on your list its not that much more expensive ($). you have Necropunks and Night terrors, which are good for grabbing objectives, and Necropunk with a reactivation from nurse will deliver any message. 3 Necropunks are over kill same for 2 nurses, If possible trade a nurse for 1 and you won't complain. You list in general is good, Vonschill is a solid machine. He is an easy button. Not an essential but you won't complain. I think Convicted gunslinger and Mctavish are better fits for resser and combo better/more cost effective. The zombie punks/Rotten belles/crooked men/better noire are models you should get on what you enjoy playing. I personally don't like the look of the zombie punks but acknowledge they are mean. I enjoy the Belles with dead doxies, they are surprisingly tough to take out in a group. I would start with the following Mcmorning box McMourning Avatar Seamus box Zombie Chihuahua 2 canine remains Mctavish Second flesh construct Dead Doxies Then grow in the following based on you taste and budget. Bette noire Necropunks Night terrors Convicted Gunslinger Vonschills Zombie punks Crooked men Sebastian Rogue necromancy aSeamus

As a long time player against Snord, if you guys are trying to start a group I might be convinced to grab a train down for a tournament from Montreal to help bolster your numbers.

I usually use Nurse in a resser crew and I love Mctavish since he has the range, and reckless, and can shrug it off. since he instantly draws a ton of hate, the 3 extra corpse tokens help. I like Necropunks for deliver a message or long range Killjoy drops. They have leap. In a Zoraida crew I would consider a gremlin specifically the one that gets a free walk if under half life. if you damage him first he gets 2 walk and 6 AP of action if you damaged him first. odds are he would trigger dumb luck before he ends his actions anyway. Desp mercs are always good since you will kill them anyway.

Gremlins are the "goofie" crew. Somer is the goofiest, but Ophelia is a close second.

I noticed that Lazarus works better if put together in the right order also.

I played in the Thursday 25SS game and in general it was ok. I do feel that timed games remove a significant aspect to the game which is that fact that it has 6 turns. While I acknowledge it needed to fit the tournament time slots, something needs to be done to to rectify it. My first game my opponent said if we played to turn 6 I would have won), in my second I was practically teaching the game to a newbie (Nice guy , but newbie) and we had to call it at turn 4 with 4-4 tie and I was an inch from his DZ for breakthrough. Third game we played to the end only because I killed half my own crew for SS. I would try and make tournament rule for games that end early due to time, allowing each player to activate 1 model per turn short, allowing for final positioning. I would also try an increase terrain density, avoiding terrain in one sides favor. I had to have a my gremlin crew try and run up to 2 Austringers who where in a horseshoe pieces of terrain in the center.

take a look at BloodDragonCC signature.

I started with a Pack 216 and loved it, moved to a 432 when my collection got too large. If you are looking at a 720 that means you have a large collection. When I moved to the 432 I ordered it with 2x2inch pluck foams and 2 customized inch trays with varying sized 1x1, 1x1.5 and 1x2. But if you get customized trays you have them cut with a .25 divider instead of a .5 inch divider. This gave me and about 15 extra models per 1 inch tray. The only small based model I have that doesn't fit in a 2x1 is Kaeris, so I cut the divided to get her to fit. MIght be a bit harder for crews like Kirai with her shikohms.

Are you looking for a full table, building to put on a table ot a display piece. I think should figure out what you want it to do first. A full high wality table is somethign I love in principle, but rarely worth the effort because its hard to store, hard to leave out (too much space). When I say high quality table I mean a full 3x3 with building and everything on it permanently in place. I would concider a building that is cut into 2. This way its eaiser to store. And if designed right you can have the 2 pieces be on 2 different shelves of a display case and not be too deep. Then when put together for games makes a full sized building that would fit on a 3x3 board with a couple exterior terrain pieces. Excuse the quality but I just spent 1 min in paint making the layout. Wthite is ground floow Dark blue is stairs Light bloor are doors Green would be 1ht platform yellow would be raised area either 2 to 3ht over looking everything teh gray line is where to cut it. In theory I would design it 2x2 when put together, or 1x2 when split in 2.

I bought a 3d Printer, and the home quality visions have a resolution of .3mm meaning that it squeezes out the plastic in strips of .3mm and layers it. Not enough detailed resolution for minis. You would have lots of little lines on it. Also home quality printers have to build up from the ground up, so anything in the shape of an M or T have difiulties sine it has to start from the base, put a layer, then put another layer on top of the existing layer. If there is nothing for the printer to put it on, the plastic will drop to the ground. Lastly the home quality ones take plastic filament, melt it like a hot glue gun and then place it in the rights spot. Mine only has room for 1 colors filament at a time, so everything is one color, even professional ones might have at most 3-4 colors, but not mix. Pro level ones have a much better resolution, and layer powder around the object to support it item, so it can do objects with hanging or downward pointing extremities (don't laugh). But I think color mixing is out of the questions. Also note that the pro level ones are about 10-20 time the cost of a home use one. I figure(best guess) Wyrd does the digital design themselves, outsources the printing of the beta versions. Then when the final version is ready, get printed on teh best quaility 3D printer available, then a mold is made of that, finally mass produced. I got a Makerbot... FYI don't buy it... 50+ hours to assemble and take note I work in IT and found the instructions terrible and still have not finished because. I HATE working on it, and after a bad week I need to do something relaxing, this just frustrating. I'm usually not afraid of Assembly required, but I didn't realize I would have to learn how to solder, and assemble the WIRES.

I see multiple thread and discussion on terrain, I'm curious what do you condenser perfect terrain "FOR YOU" and the way you play. For me I play mostly at my LGS, that has the space, and tables and lots of 2x4 styrofoam terrain boards. I keep a locker there for my minis and a couple personal things. I donated a couple 3x3 jigs that fit over the existing tables, which my 3x3 Zuzzy mat fits on. I leave the Mat in the store for anyone to use since its not fragile or breakable, the store also pick up one. Normally players you put 2 tables together to fit a 4x4 table and mark off the edges, but that always been a pet peeve of mine. the LGS has a selection of basic terrain, Forest, trees, closed building. I also donated about 30 Crates I made which are great addition for Malifaux giving cover and hiding spots for models. Because of the low model counts, I think props are important. Smaller than full sized terrain pieces, standalone that adds character to a battlefield. At the LGS I think we need building that can be played threw, and lots of smaller terrain pieces. Since anything big needs to be communal, its got to be a mix between quality / durability. Not everyone treats the communal terrain well. More than once I've seen all the building just tossed in a box randomly, so styrofoam building would not last long. At home I've started to collect terrain, and primary issue is storage. I live in an open style condo and I don't want it out all the time. Also if I need to make it myself I don't want to work on anything that will take months to finish, and can't fit in a steamer chest or closet. Currently I'm limiting myself to 6x6 pieces because I have storage containers the will fit 2 of then an not get destroyed. My first couple will be store donations and I'll rebuild them after I figure out the tricks for my personal collection. The full sized intricate boards are beautiful, but I don't see them lasting long in either location.

The boards she does are amazing, and intricate... Now if I only had a place I can store them properly.

Use (2) focus alot. Even thought its a low def to hit, the hard to wound is a pain. When focusing you get a +, combined that your opponent will usually have to cheat first, you can maximize you Rams to get a cheatable damage flip. Also don't forget Ophelia gives Aim high to your crew & Rami already has it.

While I really like the look, I find there is nothing out there that is Malifaux oriented. having a closed building is usually too big of a terrain piece. You either need to make you own of get Terraclips and make buildings that have paths threw it. ---------- Post added at 09:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:10 PM ---------- I like their Woods/ palms stuff and some of their gothic. I'm not a fan of the hills, crystals, elven stuff. The huts are actually fairly nice

I've got 2 3x3 Zuzzy mats which took 6 weeks to arrive, but I think they are the best solution to a gamer who doesn't want a dedicated gaming room and permanent terrain. I also won a tournament in a store I don't usually attend and put the prize support to a box of GF9.com battlefield in a box terrain. While not the greatest, I must admit its looks better than it does on the box.

How strict will the rules for needing to have based models for the tournaments be enforced. I've yet to see any tournament enforce that rule, but realize that gencon is a little different. Its my first time there. I don't want to have to rush to Base 145 models in 2 weeks.

I agree completely.

Has anyone recently carried minis a on a flight. I'm not really concerned about the manhandling, more about the fact that malifaux minis have guns on them. I saw a couple news stories where the TSA agents had to open up a box with a toy soldier, and removed the rifle from the box and mailed it.