greyseerco

SWEET! Will they have interiors or just shells?

I do have a follow up, as I have been considering trying some of this out (once my mat card stock is used up), how well does it hold paper glued on with regular glue (so the low water stuff). Does it require any form of special glue to work with paper?

My only issue is what has been stated, the rules are scattered through all the fluff, and while this is normal in the WarMac supplemental books, in the core rules the fluff is concentrated in a few areas. I hope future printings might consider moving the fluff two a chunk in the front (before the rules) a chunk in the middle (before Factions), and a chunk at the end (after faction but before handy tables, glossary, and index). That way the relevant items -rules and factions can be scanned quickly.

World works recommends the 80lb paper stock as well, but I have a huge pile of 110 from when that was the recommended standard a while ago (I am talking years), so until I burn though it, I have not had this "cracking" issue, but I am sure it is a very good reason why 80lb is now the recommended reason. I have not heard of using PVC. Is this the same stuff that the model railroaders buy in the small sheets (I am forgetting the brand name but with a green and white logo). I take it a hardware store would stock in larger sheets since all I have seen in that plastic is small sheets. Now I was not recommending the use of Foam Core, I think its horrible stuff, it warps, its thick (thus robbing interior space), and it makes a horrible mess unless you spend to have special tools (Rabbit cutter is a key one if you stay the foam core path). I have found by switching to the same Matt board they use for framing pictures, I have not had any warping problems, it cuts cleanly and is still very sturdy. And while still more expensive then foam core as price/inch. The Matt Board I think is still the superior product, for now, as I am sure science will prove me wrong. But your advice about having a fresh blade is so true when dealing with foam core, and if you are doing World Works new terrain linx, which relies heavily on foam core, what was said is so important.

Well first and foremost, most gatorboard is 3/16 of an inch thick where as the Mounting Boards are 1/16" thick (if you go 14 ply), now if you make buildings with interiors if you go with the thinnest gatorboard I have found you are giving up an extra 1/4 per dimmension vs using matboard. So while gatorboard is thinner than Foam Core and The other thing I look at is price sq. Inch. 15x20 @ $2.09 = 2.09/300 = 0.6cents/square inch. Gatorboard for 48x96 @ $66.00 = 66.00/4608 = 1.4 cents/square inch so roughly double the price. Now I am sure you can find both for cheaper, I just pulled out my DickBlick catalog and did a quick search on Gatorboard prices. Now with all that said, my only encounter with Gatorboard was in passing, and I believe it is great stuff for bases, heck it is made with wood and high density foam so of course it is going to be tough. Tough also to cut and tough on my blades. The Mat board is the same stuff your fancy pictures get mounted on when framed. So I would say the Mat will not be as rigid as the Gatorboard, at least not at 14 ply. But the buildings I have made with it have stood up to some storage and banging around, and I have made some rather large models with it and it seems to be holding up well and the glue I use, well since it is paper on paper works rather well, I would be worried about gluing the paper onto the wooden shell of the Gatorboard and seeing if it will still be stuck there later on. So I know I am rambling, but I hope this helps.

Just a small correction, I had early noted a threat range of 19", this is incorrect. The max possible threat range of a single slurid is 40" The setup: Zoraida directly behind a Slurid. Zor casts Repulsive - which pushes all models away 6" if they fail a WP duel, which your own models can do willingly. Zor then casts Obey on the Slurid (again another WP duel which it can willingly fail) to make it charge 9" more, preferably into an enemy. Which it then attacks. Then the Slurid Activates and does the following in any sequence. If the Slurid is next to an enemy thanks to the charge action above. It does Self Preservation for 6" then does the following 3 actions in any sequence that makes sense. Casts Leap for 9" more Walk for 5" Walk for 5" more Total move 6+9+6+9+5+5= 40" So depending on board size you can enter the enemies deployment zone in a single turn with an attack, if properly setup. Ahh the joys of Slurids.

Like Knightdrake said, they are game winners in the right scenario (Treasure Hunt being the biggie) Since forces are decided after mission objectives are determined, nothing beats a pair of slurids for a snatch and grab mission. Just remember you need at least 2, lest one basically withers away. Hold them on a flank for any of the board control missions and with a 19" threat they can easily get into quarters as long as you hold a few 7's in your hand.

Just some tips on 3D terrain, First, World Works makes amazing stuff, but know that they are in between scales right now. The new Himmelvile stuff is 6"x6" tile based, where as the old stuff was 7"x7" so keep an eye on that. Second, while 110lb paper stock is very sturdy, there are ways to make your terrain even more sturdy (to protect your work and investment in ink last a bit longer). While you will hear lots of recommendations about using Foam Core Board to strengthen your terrain, I found it eats up too much interior space and is not very clean to work with (lots of foam stuff all over). I suggest you look into getting 1/16" (14 ply) Black Mounting Boards/Matts. DikBlick of course carries it, do a look up for Bainbridge Super Black 100 Mounting Board. This stuff is just as strong as Foam Core, just as light, and its only 1/16 of inch thick, so if you get into the paper terrain with interiors, you do not have such a hassel adjusting the layout to accomodate the much thicker Foam Core. Now with that said, the new himmelville stuff is designed for Foam Core use, especially for the street tiles. I am definately going to be picking uo the White Wash city soon.

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Knowing that Lady J is strong vs. Ressurectionists, and winners tend to buy more than loosers, would you say let the Demo-ee play Lady J?

so while I have my M&SU all painted up and my Hag Puppets all painted up, I am finding them hard to teach to new players. So I was wondering what would be recommded starter boxes for new Players, I know every model has some funky rules (as is the nature of a character driven game), but there has to be a pair that is "straight forward." I suspect the Death Marshalls would be good, but of the Resurrectionists, which box would be best? Of the Neverborn and Arcanist, I hear Lilith's Brood is the most straight forward and Cult of December are the most straight forward, but already having one of each of those factions already, I am hoping to get a Guild an Resurrectionist box together. So thoughts, opinions. All would be appreciated so I know where to put my Malifaux money to the best use for bringing in more players.

Several things I have learned from making World Works terrain is 1) Use the right glue, their forum at Worldworks has a whole thread on the right glue to buy (one with the right water content is key) 2) For models that I expect alot of play, mounting the model on Matte Board (dickblick.com sells it), the same stuff they frame pictures with, has given them great strength without the hassel of foarm core board. My first concern with WWC is the interior maps, if they all have the 1" grid on them, it sure makes it easy to know if that charge is going to work or not.