TheBugKing

One major question: With all things puppet going on will you get to paint soon Eric?

Another paint update. The rest of the base. Still a WIP. Working out what to do with the rust on the caution area...

Got some painting done and wanted to share. I'll be putting a lot more work in today. Both on the base (Which the construction is complete. ) and on the rider. I seem to have lost the cape for the damned thing though. NOT Happy about that!

Nope. Used monofilament and applied 5 minute apoxy to it. I supported the upper portion of the base with a wooden frame till the apoxy was dry just like what you see above. Pretty simple system but looks really striking.

I've successfully done the water effects before.

Finally an update! Not much painting though... Got a lot of work done on the base though. Pretty pleased with how it's coming out. A bit of an explanation of how this works: The balsa will be removed after I do the water effects which will include a bunch of water coming out of the broken pipes cascading down the I-beam. The water will then support the walkway. Pics!

Putting words in Jess' mouth here: She used balsa and stained it. Red too. I wanted her to paint it black. (Theaters frequently have black floors to allow for ease in lighting. Burlesque shows on the other hand typically have stained floors...) However, the process is really quite simple. Get some 1/4" x 1/32" balsa planks. Cut them to fit the indent in the base and glue them in. Be careful to get no glue on the surface of the base. (It won't stain properly if you do) Use a smallish brush (A #2 flat will do nicely) and apply the stain. You will likely have to apply three or four coats of stain. Also, you will want to lightly sand in between applications to cut down on the burs that will pop up from the balsa. As for the Coryphee moving between bases, you just get two sets. Simplest way to do it. Two on a base and two individually based.

Also note that One with the Night states that she can use Drawn to Death during the next turn. Not the current turn. So she can't pop in more then once in a turn.

Bah! Who would vote in this anyway??? (Grin. I pester you there and I p-ester you here! It's a circle thing I think...)

I are the reply ninja! (only when someone wants to delete their post that is...)

I use SmoothOn Mold Max 30 for my casting process. It needs an accurate gram scale but nothing really beats it for shore strength and flexibility. I've made replacement shoulder pads for the Privateer Press Death Jack with it as well as a ton of bases. It's pretty cheap for the volume and sets up really well. All in all a great product.

They have indeed. I meant videotaping the episode.

Hmm. Seems I've missed. Nothing beats Testors Model Master Lacquer Airbrush Buffing Metallics. This stuff is amazing. You can apply it with a brush and then buff it with a cotton swab up to a perfect shine. Amazing stuff. Beyond that, I use VGC Red, Blue, Yellow, White and Black. I mix all my colors. (Yaay color theory!) And a big thanks to Brushmistress and her classes at Gencon for turning me back on to acrylics! (Still stuck with the Metallics Jess. Can't touch um. And I'll convert you too eventually I think!)

HAH! Should see if you guys can goad the D6G guys to do the same thing! They are a bunch of really crazy guys too. Looking forward to the video.

Was quite the fun show. I likes how you sort of broke down how things played out, how the game played and what you liked / disliked about the game. Also, the banter about the Worlds End and the end of the world was great. Hope your fellow contryfolk don't have to swim too much longer.

Yeah, sort of. I'm do a lot of work for Warcast Studios. There is some really great stuff coming out in the future. Did the functioning drawbridge for PP as well as the Demo board for Wyrd.

Ice usually looks cloudy white. So if you lay down a layer of ETex Light and then float a thin layer of PVA on top of that (After the resin dries) it winds up looking like a layer of ice. You can also gently peel sections up and cut them to look like cracks and the like. Then poor another layer to have more "ice" A small amount of blue tinting really sells the effect as well.

For really fine detail applications of ETex Lite I mix it up in a cup then apply with a toothpick like item in small drops. (I typically shave down a piece of balsa wood into what ever shape I need for the application) I would also advise against using PVA glue. You could try to get Liquitex gloss heavy gel medium and simply sculpt in your water effects. This stuff is great for doing really high relief waves and the like. Or for having large ripples in your water effects. (Thing the bottom of a waterfall or a waterfall for that matter) Another product that you may want to check out is Self leveling gel which can be tinted with any acrylic based paint or ink. It has some shrinkage issues though so it usually requires multiple applications. It combines really well with the heavy gel though to generate some great water effects.

Any chance you could post pictures of the bases? It would be a lot easier to help if you did. If you are having capillary action problems with the varnish I would venture to guess you are poring a puddle in. Paint it on in very thin layers that have no ability to flow and you will get a smooth gloss finish in about 5 coats or so with no capillary action problems. Another product to try is Poor On by Envirotex Lite. It's what I used to the Swamp Demo table at Gencon last year. I also use it for water effects on bases. It's a two part epoxy polymer that dries crystal clear and can be pored in layers up to about 3/4" thick. Again, proper help really needs pictures so we can see what you are working with. (Don't drop your models. It hurts on so many levels. Just stop doing it. It's easier that way.)

Excellent audio quality guys. Listen to the D6G often and I have to say that I like your choice of music MUCH more! Listening to this now. Will update when I get through it.

Another update. Started on the metal. yay...

I'm likely going to replace them with brass rod and some greenstuff. I'll keep the heads to save that sculpt issue but making the snakes thinner will help the over all look of the figure I think. That aside, if I was going to keep the snakes as is I would cut the cast pins off and replace them with a very small gauge brass rod and pin them in place. Otherwise it would be really hard to get them in place. I do plan on painting them before I stick them onto the horse head though.

Just a brief update. Been a week from hell. Only had about 15 hours of sleep all week. T I R E D... Started implementing some of the suggestions. Thanks again for the comments folks.

Hmmm. Been playing Rune Wars a bit. Malifaux a bit. Legend of Zelda a tiny bit. So little time to game.

Oh come ON Sketch! It's not like you haven't misspelled anything either. (Though I'll admit it's not usually in the public eye) And I do recall several grammatical errors on your part too. (And before anyone bust me on the fact, I'm horribly guilty of it too! Auto spell check is my friend and makes it look like I can spell much better then I do...)