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Moavoamoatu

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Everything posted by Moavoamoatu

  1. The site doesn't load at all.....
  2. You see, I was right......keep some money for your way back Nathan.
  3. Could we have multipart miniatures with bunny tail and ears in option ????
  4. As you all read it, Frustrated father is in Las Vegas for business....but it's not true. He is enjoying the casinos while we paint like slaves for Iron Painter contest. I just got photos of him : You can't hide anymore Nathan, we know where you are now...
  5. No, no, no it's not spam..... So I can go for it too : I want to buy a gift for my wife for her birthday. I just found two fantastic sites : http://www.voilesdenuit.com/ http://www.games-workshop.com/ As I hesitate please suggest me what I could buy... :crap:
  6. Ritual you wrote that you use the base coat with a 50/50 mix of metallic paint and a regular, matte, paint. Which regular paint colour do you use ? Black, blue, brown,...?
  7. I used to drybrush metallic paints on a black undercoat too. But if you want a nice result that's poor indeed. The tutorial on CMON is the technique I use with metallic paints now. If you want a quick and nice result don't follow all this tutorial. There is a simple technique for a fast result. Paint a thin layer of GW metal bolter on the weapon or armor. Then use glazes of black and glazes of dark brown. Highlight with GW mithril silver. I'll post photos later on in the Alkemy thred I started yesterday to show you. Of course if you want a better result et not a tabletop one you will have to follow the CMON tutorial. I use Games Workshop Metal Bolter, Mithril silver and sometimes chainmail (you can add black or grey or brown paint to modifiy the colour). But for gold I prefer the Vallejo paints. The techinqiue is the same for silver and gold effects. Use a "shining gold" as a base and then Tin Bizz, black and brown glazes for shades. Use another brighter gold paint for highlights, then a mix of gold and Mithrill silver and then final highlights with mithrill silver. Hope it helps.
  8. 1 or 2 but it can be more for armies (if you have the same colour scheme).
  9. Thanks. To Wren : the 2 firsts are from Alkemy (and a pleasure to paint) but the 2 lions are from Black Orc Games and they were a pain in the butt to paint because of the fur so I agree that it is a bit rough.
  10. Hello, As I had a little time left before IP5 next round I painted some of my Alkemy Khalimans. They are tabletop miniatures. Just let me know what you think.
  11. I saw them in flesh as I attended a french Alkemy tournament last saturday : they rock like other miniatures. And I was lucky enough to meet two guys from the Alkemy Team who only live at 5 miles from my house.
  12. Congratulations. Don't forget to tell Nathan the name of your children. I hope you will have many so we could get many miniatures from Wyrd.
  13. Thanks for the link Goblyn13, it's great. I like my chainsaw. I already use Picasa 2 and Photoshop. I am a real killer then :rocketwho
  14. Thanks for your answers. I went for a Rackham Fianna that I will (heavily) convert. Now any ideas for REM as you can see here (with or without wings I don't care) : http://www.amiami.com/shop/ProductInfo/product_id/73269 I tried many miniatures manufacturers but found nothing suitable for now.
  15. Thanks, I'll try this way. Which photo editor do you use ?
  16. How do you do then because I always get "yellowish" pictures inside and I use 3 lights, a white background and daylight bulbs (2 daylights and 1 halogen) ??? I never managed to get nice photos indoors.
  17. Me neither and my camera is not the best but I found the trick. 1/ First it's better to take pictures outside and not inside with lamps as nothing can replace real sunlight. 2/ Never use a flash but I think you already know this 3/ Place white sheets (I use foamcore) on the 3 sides of the miniatures to reflect light (and under it of course). 4/ Use the best photo resolution (size). 5/ Don't take a shot near the miniature as you could resize the photo later on with your computer. 6/ use a tripod 7/ use manual settings instead of automatic ones and make different shots with different settings. 8/ prey and dance for 2 days so it won't rain :dancing: Hope it helps but you could find good tutorials on the web. BTW nice mini.
  18. Nothing for L yet but I am still looking for modern civilians for Light and L. Here is another photo of the existing miniatures but they are 4 inches tall : http://animeha.com/images/181/collection-complete-trading-death-note_43370.jpg
  19. Yes it's a good idea. Someone else also suggested a Rackham Fianna. Both can fit I think with a little conversion. Here are the others I am looking for : Rem : http://www.cornerstorecomics.com/images/sta_deathnote_craft_rem_L.jpg Ryuk : http://www.cornerstorecomics.com/images/af_rah_deathnote_ryuk_L.jpg Light : http://www.cornerstorecomics.com/images/af_rah_deathnote_light_L.jpg Another Misa style : http://www.cornerstorecomics.com/images/af_rah_deathnote_misa_L.jpg
  20. Thanks but I already have almost all Hasslefree, Copplestone and all Anima Tactics babes and none is suitable. Still searching...
  21. Hello, I would like to make a diorama with Death Note characters. I am looking for 28-35mm miniatures. Any idea especially for Misa Amane ? I can convert an existing miniature. I already checked Shadowforge and Eureka : nothing suitable. Here is Misa for those who don't know her : link And may be civilian miniatures for Light and L. I think Ryuk and Rem would be easier to find and convert. Thanks
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