Pipeline Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 I swear by 2 part resin epoxy. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/23/epxy_heavy/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Heavy-Duty.htm Avoid that dual applicator thingy. It's not appropriate for toy soldiers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 I've seen stuff like that, but haven't tried it as a glue. I used it for water effects, and it worked out well, but I have since switched to a single part resin (that was less expensive, but takes longer to set). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redben Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 I'm painting a gremlin warpig at the moment which doesn't slide into a base so I decided to bite the bullet and give pinning a try. I went to the Maelstrom website yesterday and ordered a 50mm bayou base insert and a P3 pinning kit having first been scrupulous in checking both were in stock. Anyone who has ordered an out of stock item from them before knows what I'm talking about. I get an e-mail today saying the order has been split and the drilling kit posted because the base insert is currently out of stock. :banghead: :banghead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redben Posted September 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Or you can just use some Gorilla Glue and hope for the best. That's how I roll. Do you mean their superglue or the regular gorilla glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
U.S. Male Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 (edited) Do you mean their superglue or the regular gorilla glue? Read post #25 above, he already filled in my lack of knowledge about the question. Edited September 2, 2011 by U.S. Male Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redben Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 I decided to take the plunge and try to pin. I got a drill set from PP but I'm having a problem with it and all the online advice I can find on drilling assumes that you can at least get the drill to work.... Whenever I put even slight downward pressure on the drill the bit slides up into it. I tighten it as much as I can and I'm sure it's in the right place. What am I doing wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TekDekay Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Whenever I put even slight downward pressure on the drill the bit slides up into it. I tighten it as much as I can and I'm sure it's in the right place. What am I doing wrong? The inner collar (the piece that initially holds the bit centered) on some drills are double sided. The one end of the inner collar's pincers are smaller than the other ends. Try unscrewing the very top all the way off and see if the inner collar is reversable. Something to check out at any rate. Cheers, JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redben Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 It seems to come with two inner collars with room enough for both of them to be inside. There are two ends larger than the one I'm using and the other doesn't have a hole cut into it to hold the drill bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TekDekay Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Hmmm, well, if none of the inner collars are small enough then I guess you could try wrapping the shaft end of the drill bit with a loop or two of tape (duct tape or electrical tape would probably work best). If I think of something else I will certainly post it. Best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pasanius Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 redben, use the collar that has no hole in the middle. If its anything like my GaleForce9 pin drill, thats the collar for the smaller bit. Also be very careful with the pressure, too much and any off axis movement you make will snap it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Alternatively, use a Dremel. That's my weapon of choice for pinning. (And grinding, polishing, sanding, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghiest1 Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Hello, I have been pinning and gluing for many years now and I wan tmake sure you do understand when buying Zap-a-gap it comes in multiple kinds, and a strange variant. The difernce is the thickness of flow on the differnt types, all the way from gel like to flows like mercury, ie.thick to thin. There is also a accelrator available (for CA+) which just makes the glue bond faster. Thin works well if your just putting two small peices together (CA), or if bigger pieces (CA+) that also fills the gap (use thick if you need to do this), but it takes a full 24 hrs. to cure. The regular CA is faster but very thin and I can not stress enough not to open the bottle with your teeth, ( a person's you don't like perhaps, or one that droped said model) as (CA) will stick your lips together in painful ways. They also sell a "uncure" product as well, get this! It will remove the excess glue from the base and wherever as well as paint from your pallets. It also allows you to clean the tips of your bottle out between uses. Hope this helps! Regards, Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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