Peterdita Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 Anyone know anything about mixing some paint in with this product? I got me some Envirotex (two part resin), and I was wondering about throwing some paint in the mix to give it that murky look. I did some test pours and it hardened nicely, I got a little shrink but that was expected and can be limited next time with a fuller meniscous. However, it came out crystal clear, and I need some serious funk in this water, some Silurid salmonella, giant mosquito breading, bad Juju funk! The instructions are pretty gung-ho about making sure all paints/liquids have dried completely before you pour this stuff out for curing reasons. So logically I'm hesitant to add some brown/green paint to it. I've seen the sweet swamps, I want one. What's the dish? TBK/Bexley/Rob I'm looking in your direction here. But anyone with experience with this product, I'd love to hear any tip/tricks on this. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AoM Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 inks. and a little bit of flock if you really want it. paint before you pour, and don't use paint in the resin, just inks. and a little goes a long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLemondropDan Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 What AoM said. Crappy woodland scenics also mixes nicely with both inks and paints to make a lovely (if translucent) scum. As ever, I can hardly recommend "fine art" gels/mediums/effects, either. Look at michaels/A.C. Moore/art supply store for lots and lots of fun things to mix with paints or inks. (Inks are better, generally) I'm a big liquitex fan (natural sand and string gel, heck yeah!), but Golden makes some lovely stuff, too. Check this guy out-- he's embellished with modeling paste, string gel, and gloss medium. Not too shabby, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bexley Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 Acrylic inks (like GW) and acrylic paints paint will both work. Inks will stay translucent, though, so make sure you paint the bottom first, like AoM said. Paints will be semi-translucent to opaque, depending on how much you add. The swamp board I did used two pours- the first one with P3 Thamar Black and Umbral Umber mixed in, until it was fairly (but not completely) opaque. The second was the same colors, but much less, so that it was translucent. Then I sprinkled on "duckweed" using the old-style GW flock. (Which they don't make anymore, so if anybody knows any hobby stores that have a bag or two still on the shelf, let me know- I'll reimburse you if you buy it and send it to me.) If you go with Woodland Scenics (or another ground foam) use as bright a color as you can, as it darkens a lot when it soaks up the resin. One idea I didn't try was coloring the foam flock with paint first, so that it doesn't darken as much, and still gives that nice bright duckweed green. Also keep in mind that the resin will look much darker/more opaque in the mixing cup than it will when poured out, since the poured resin will have a much thinner cross-section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draykin Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Check out the Tips and Tricks page here: http://www.hirstarts.com/ Bruce uses inks in his water projects all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBugKing Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 I did the same basic thing that Bex did with the swamp table but did mine in 4 pours. I also used inks. The first poor was a mix of 66% india ink and 33% dark green ink. It looked completely opaque in the mixing pot and was almost opaque after the poor. The next layer was 50% india ink and 50% dark green. While it was setting I took yellow ink and dropped a few blobs here and there and used a toothpic to spread out the swirls. Good scum look there. I also added a mix of coarse and fine flock. Third layer was straight dark green still tinted heavily. Repeated the yellow ink as well as flocking. The final layer was almost clear followed by a sprinke of Skullcrafts dark green foliage. I painted the base a similar gradient before the poor as the ink process is translucent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterdita Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 BAM! Just what I needed fellas. Thank you! Stay tooned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterdita Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 One last thing: Other than letting it fully cure do you do anything between pours? Directions recomend an alcohol wipe to surface. Is that really needed if it's nice and clean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBugKing Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 I didn't... I just pored right on top of the other layer. I also noticed that cure times were pretty quick. An hour to two at most. Be aware that it will generate a considerable amount of heat if you pore it thicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bexley Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 One hour cure times? Wow. I never got that lucky. I'd see it set up in two, if I put a heat lamp on it, but it'd still be tacky for at least eight to ten. I don't wait that long between pours, though. I generally go about five hours between layers. Unless the resin is kinda old and setting up slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gru6y Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hey, does anyone know any good substitute for Envirotex available in Europe? I would like to be able to obtain as clear finish as it is possible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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