brib4169

They also have the build you own paint set option, 54 paints of your choice plus a caddy for just under $200 http://www.reapermini.com/BuildYourOwnPaintSet

I have always liked to think of it as a fart, that acts identical to the smoke pellets that ninjas drop in all the movies (ie a column of smoke the extends out (4) and up (5), hiding everything inside). 4 (p.20) simply means it effects everything 4 inches out from the base of the model in any direction, yes this makes the total area of effect 9.25-ish (4in+4in+30mm [1.18in]) inches across Ht 5 (p. 11) means the effect extends up 5, so a model that is up 6 is not effected or a model that is up 3 is only effected by the last 2. obscuring (p.15) means blocks LoS, however even without abilities, any model can see 3 inches into obscuring areas. So the stitched has 4in of fog between him and anything outside the effect, and is effectively out of LoS. (also he has no LoS to anything outside that 4"). models inside the aura are only effected many inches of fog are between them and one of the edges of the effect. The "for all models, including this model" part makes this a solid column instead of the usual 'donut' area of effect that is detailed in the description "until start close phase" tells you when the effect stops and things can be seen normally again hope this helps. sorry I was still typing all this when mythicFOX posted theirs

Interesting idea, when in doubt, these guys have everything... http://www.dickblick.com/products/liquitex-interference-acrylics/

good to know, we usually use fixed strategy in our tournaments so it has never come up.

but you can always spend a soul stone to reflip your strategy

Sorry, I didn't intend to ramble this much... Any idea what crews you will be up against? Most tournaments don't require fixed crews, just faction or master. You should get a pool of models to choose from. Take them all (or as many as you can afford) and tailor your crew to the opponent and strategy. Don't forget to bring extra 50mm bases, Raspy likes her ice pillars. Blessed and Snow storm are your only options for mobility. If you need a long distance objective grabber, Blessed is your best bet, but keep her covered, she is a big target and she crumples easy under concentrated fire. You were correct in your assesment that Snow Storm is a little to pricey for this size game, although against a shooty crew like perdita or ophelia, he might be worth it since he is hard to shoot (iirc you need at least a 9 to even hit him). I would only take the golem if you are against a big melee crew (lilith, Viks, etc...). wait for them to get in close and go defensive stance and use his statue ability, then laugh while they swing impotently. But generally you will get more utility out of Blessed and she is 2 stones cheaper. Silent ones are almost auto-includes in a Raspy list, I usually run with 2 instead of the 3 gamin. use the turn to statue ability on and enemy, drop their defense to 1 and then have raspy cast her Zero. Good way to knock those big point models or masters down a peg. The december acolyte is another story, I really want to like him, but I have yet to get any real use out of him. His from the shadows can help with objective grabbing, but you will probably never use him to reel anyone in for Raspy to shoot. His points are better spent on another model Gamin are your filler, they can take a hit if they go defensive, and make good fodder to get around targeting restrictions (like pandora). shoot the Gamin with Raspys blast spell, cheat down their defense, cheat up the damage, hit the enemy(s) with the blasts and if the gamin gets killed in the process tack on an additional 2 damage from their pop. if you only get a single 25ss crew for the entire game, I would have to agree with Gorbad's list. You can always give up taking a scheme for an extra 2 stones if you think you need them. If you get a pool to chose from, I would consider swapping out the blessed for an extra 2 gamin if you don't need the movement.

Or to stay on the doll theme (as much as I prefer tuco ) a pair of stitched for the bury shenanigans, aZ, and the wicked doll (or keep the stones and summon the wicked doll as needed), or skip the avatar, three wicked and one stitched

All WP <=4 model effectively becomes a mercenary to Zoraida unless otherwise stated on the card.

You could always have an insidious madness or carrion effigy standing by to strip away the immunity, although you can't mix the effigy with Ophelia

http://www.thewarstore.com/product61298.html

The fast from student of conflict could be used to move another 3", never a bad thing for her. Another option is the arcane effigy. +1 casting ap for Tina, plus a lot of other handy abilities, makes a decent bodyguard, but it is 4ss and a special forces model. I generality take essence when I am facing bigger opponents where I need max damage, and the effigy when I am facing lots of weaker enemies and I would rather cast more spells at average damage.

Can ice pillars be summoned into a place with a ceiling less than ht 5 (ie inside a building)? The rules (FAQ) say something to the effect that if the effect of an action cannot occur, then you cannot use that action. Since a ht 5 pillar cannot fit into a ht 3 place, does that mean Ice Pillars (and Flame Walls for that matter) are cuddled on indoor locations unless you agree before the game as to what areas are ht 5 or greater?

untapped horror archetypes - mummy and wolfman. A female lycanthrope is easy to picture, lots of beasts to tap into, think Marcus gone bad. As for mummies, cleopatra-esque with a whole new set of ancient undead. Just my $0.02

I'd like to see an official ruling, but until then the group I play with decided to use it thus: the ap granted by the effigy is its own specific source and can not be combined with other ap, with one exception. One general ap can be combined with the granted ap to allow you to channel. It fulfills the description on the card and mostly plays by the rules.

I only started a few months ago, I have only played tabletop RPGs previously, I only have one master (have borrowed a few more for a game or two), I have played dozens of games, I have even won a few (and most of those were dumb luck). My difference is I don't play to win, but that is just me. I am not competitive by nature. I enjoy playing to play, and I have yet to have a bad experience with malifaux. While I don't put my stuff on the table expecting to win, I do set goals for myself. Little things like I want Hamelin to 'Piper's Lure' someone off the table, or can I kill a something big with my obeyed Mature nephelim in one turn. If I can roll that into a scheme, great. I get the whole 'keep your eye on the prize' mentality, and agree that is how games are won. Just don't forget its a game, so win or lose, have a little fun.

You are correct about Secret Weapons. Les has a link to them on his storefront. I believe it was in his post on Dakkadakka that he went into the specifics about why he was shut down, but you are right, it was beurocratic BS. On another note, I ended up buying the stuff to make his wash. Flowaid was a pain to find, it took 4 different art/craft stores, everyone had Liquitex matte medium, but not the flowaid. Following the recipe as exactly as I could, it came out a little too viscous for my tastes as it seemed to coat the entire model and not just settle into the recesses. Going to try adding more of the water/flowaid mix, but I have not had much chance to play with the recipe to find a balance I like. I also wasn't keen on the 1oz serving size in the recipe. I'm playing Malifaux, not Warhammer, I only need to paint a dozen models or so, not hundreds, and I don't always want the same color wash (the main reason I'm making my own in the first place). Doing a little math, I came up with a more convenient serving size for doing single or small batches of models. Given that a drop is approximately 30-35ul (I work in a lab, I measured) I came up with a ratio of about 1 drop of ink to 13 drops of the flowaid-water/matte medium mixture, so for most of the recipes that use multiple inks, 3 drops of ink and 40 drops of base give you approximately the same mix as the original recipe. Again, I haven't had much time to test this. I will update this as I go if anyone is interested.

I have been eyeing Les's recipe from awseomepaintjob.com for a while now. I don't need anywhere near the volume it makes, but the variability in colors would be nice. How does his recipe stack up against the GW washes?