snord

Sorry to derail the thread, but I've seen players making Pandora cast Dementia on herself... I thought it was a valid target... is it not?

I would add a second Austringer in there and play either Lady J (for a general purpose list) or Sonnia (against Arcanists) instead of Hoffman. Peacekeeper would also be replaced without Hoffman in there.

Oh this is beautiful! 1) It works for sure, as Collodi is not a master when playing as a henchman for another master. 2) I am not sure about the situation here, but either the marionettes would be sacrificed or they would be stuck in the place they are when that happens, as you can't move them more than 8" away from a friendly Collodi and there is no friendly Collodi anymore. We will need a rules marshal for this.

I just uploaded my pictures in the gallery here in the site... it seems each user got one...

@Wren this palette looks interesting... the only palettes I've seen around here are plastic palettes that for some reason won't let me remove citadel paints after they are dry (yes, I tried several things) or metal palettes that are too big. To be honest, I haven't used a regular palette since I learned to make wet palettes about a year ago. Before that I was using the small citadel palette and it has only 4 wells (obviously not anywhere near enough). I will look for the one you suggested or something similar.

@reapergirl thanks for the tip. I sent an e-mail to Mathieu to get some info on the class! Looks quite interesting and it is close. I was reading about the Bezold effect in this book. It also contains exercises to help learn how the colors affect each other. Unfortunately, as you say, the book is more about 2d drawings. It does not have anything specific about 3d model painting.

Interesting comments about the wet pallete. After I started using it I find very annoying to paint without it because the paint dries so fast on a regular pallete, even when I mix a lot of water. Might try to come back for some things though. And I agree, learning from someone really helps. I was doing that at our local GW store, as there was a guy there that was really friendly and helpful and liked to help everyone. Problem is he left, and the store is getting a lot more strict on allowing people paint there. Also, I could only paint GW minis there, and now I rarely paint GW minis... this diorama was the exception. Anyway, I will look around... maybe I can find some Montreal painters...

@RealGenius thanks for all the info on your replies. Will carefully read all the links. And the Color Scheme Designer site looks awesome! Really happy to receive so much good info from all of you!

I am probably using the wrong vocabulary. I thought the wood bases used in the dioramas were called "sockets". I found suitable pieces of wood in hardware stores, that are sanded and all, but they still look too rough I think. I think miniatures require polished bases and I haven't found them around here (Montreal) yet.

Thank you for the helpful answer and comments so far. Keep them coming. @reapergirl the reason I asked for book references is that they have helped me a lot. For instance, the latest book I read (linked in my post) explains the concepts of dull and vibrant colors and how to move from one to another... pretty basic for painters, I guess, but I am a software engineer! Was awesome to read and finally understand that and helped me to start improving my shadows. Regarding color schemes, I found that looking for pictures of real objects helps a lot. Need to do more of that. @PaintMinion thanks for the tips. I will look for feathering. I know what Glazing is in theory and I've been practicing it, but obviously have to improve it a lot. Thanks for the book references. Feel free to ask for your sales commission as I just place my orders for the book and the bundle of annuals. I love books of pictures of painted models for inspiration and somehow I missed the CMON annuals. @LavronYor thanks for the link to the tutorial and your comments on my mini. Regarding the wet pallete, I do use one and I can't paint without one anymore. But, I am still doing layering on the mini, as I find the paint (I have GW and Vallejo) dries too fast for me to do wet blending like I read some people do. Should I be using some kind of product to prevent the paint from drying that fast when doing blending? Also, I usually make around 7 steps of colors on my pallete to paint the transitions and try to blend from there... is that not enough or it is a matter of skill... i.e., I have to train more? * regarding the yellow blob on my blue gnoblar, it was my attempt at directional lighting, from the torch and the fire stick on his mouth. I obviously failed miserably! * regarding the banner, I did paint both the banner and the ropes to age them, but apparently it was not enough... the "burned" is also all paint, no fire involved in the process, so I guess at least in that I succeeded... Thanks for the help so far! It is appreciated! ---------- Post added at 04:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:16 PM ---------- @Brushmistress hearing you say you have 10 years of painting practice actually helps to lift the spirit... I started 2 years ago with the GW Academy... mind you, I always hated painting or doing any artistic activity with all my heart, until I painted my first mini... now I love it and spend quite a lot of time with the hobby. Maybe in 8 years from now... Regarding the paints, I feel that it does not help to buy tons of paints if I don't know how to use them... I have basically the whole Citadel set and I am slowly expanding on Vallejo, but I still have a hard time painting with the Vallejo ones when compared with the Citadel... so, learning... I heard good things about the Master Series though. For regular day to day painting, I use mostly citadel brushes, just because I think the cost benefit for them is ok, and they are ok brushes (except for the "standard" brush and the "basecoat" brush that I think are crap). I do have a Winsor&Newton series 7 000 for when I want to do very fine details. I will check out the Kolinsky ones that you mentioned. Thanks.

- Hi, my name is Edson and I am a beginner painter. - Hi Edson! - I would not like to be a beginner anymore, and that is why I am here. I honestly follow several blogs on miniature painting, read articles, bought a few books, and just recently started reading my wife's art books in the quest to improve my skills, but it is not easy. Having seen some of the entries in the IP, several questions poped up in my mind about how some of the painters did some of the things they did, or which material they were using, or where did they got a model, etc. Maybe there are others out there that also have similar questions. Although I totally understand that an artist's secrets are his and his alone, if any of you out there wouldn't mind to share some of them, it would be greatly appreciated. So, to get started, I will add a few questions. If you also have questions, feel free to add your own. While I sometimes mention author's by name, the questions are open to anyone that would like to contribute, and as a mentioned name, don't feel obligated to answer if you don't want to. 1) Socket bases: an easy one to start. Where do you get your socket bases? or do you build/sand them yourself? (bonus points if I can get them in Canada) 2) Blends: many of the entries achieved such a smooth blend and color transition that leaves me drooling (@brushmistress and @Whyspyr are just 2 examples). I've been improving my blends over time, but I am still unable to achieve what you do. I did noticed differences not only with the techniques, but also with the paints/inks/pigments used. So questions: 2.a.) Do you use wet blending or layering? 2.b.) Is there any difference on how much you thin the paint to achieve such effect when compared to painting other parts of the model? Or depending on the color? 2.c.) Which paints/inks/pigments do you use? It would be great if you can talk about a specific part part of your model? I noticed that some of my GW/Vallejo paints leave a chalky texture while others don't... so I am curious about which material you use. 3) Inspiration vs Perspiration: I know some people just have the talent, and others (like me) have to compensate talent with lots of training. Can you recommend any books that helped you improve your skills? 4) Color Scheme: How do you choose your color scheme? Do you select the colors in advance, or you just go with the flow? Thank you all in advance!

I think Lilitu and Lelu are not strong enough as they are. So I would like to humbly request a change in the rules that would allow they (and only they) to be healed past their initial wounds, up to, but not beyond, infinity. This would also have the nice side effect of solving this problem as the original question would be moot, since they would always heal. PS: where is that disclaimer? "this post was made for fun and should not be taken seriously in any way"...

Search fu did not help this time, so need a clarification. When the "purpose" effect of the Dead Rider ends, if it ends? Since the effect does not mention an explicit end time, I always assumed it would end at the end of the closing phase, and regain it next turn when the model activates. In a recent thread though, someone said the effect does not end. So the question is: how it works? Also, my understanding is that the same applies to the Mechanical rider and the Pale Rider, but not to the Hooded Rider as the Hooded Rider explicitly states it receives it's ability according to the choice the player makes at the beginning of the game. Thanks

Exactly. When an effect does not list an end time, it ends at the end of the closing phase. At least that is how I always played these effects. I would love to be proved wrong, as I use the rider quite frequently. I guess I will post a question about it in the rules forum.

Just to check if I've been playing him correctly, you get the purpose at the start of the **activation** and it ends at the end of the turn. So from the start of the turn until the moment the rider activates, it has no "purpose" at all, and does not benefit from things like Terrifying, Hard to Kill, etc that he might have received the turn before. If I am not mistaken, the only rider that keeps his purpose from turn to turn is the Hooded Rider, as it defines the purpose at the beginning of the game and only changes it with the 0 spell.

I've been once in the target end of some shots fired by an undead Convict Gunslinger affected by Bolster Undead and I can tell you, it is mean... but not sure if it is worth the 2ss+totem slot and it was Nicodem on the other side, not Levi.

Thanks all!

We used to play fixed shared strategies in our local tournaments, but the last 2 were following the rules flipping on the Expanded Encounter Chart before each game. IMHO and of my friends, this format plays to the strengths of Malifaux as a game and it is much better than fixing shared strategies ahead of time. We will continue to play like that.

In one of the episodes of a podcast (I can't remember if it was Gamer's Lounge or The Aethervox), the presenter mentioned that Lucius *can* reinforce Ryle, because reinforcements does not *target* a model. Can we have an official confirmation on that? [this was raised at my LGS recently]

Hjelmen, I love to play with the Governor's proxy and Sonnia, even if I intend to manifest. The bonus to WP duel is the reason I include it, but Governor's Decree is awesome, and he can (kind-of) easily cast Flame Wall as well. Since I have some of my models up front for Sonnia to target anyway, my favorite action is to cast Governor's Decree, targeting one of my models within 3" of my opponent's master or powerful models. It can easily shutdown some master/models for a turn if you do it before they activate. What happens in my games around here is that because of how dangerous he can be for a 2ss model, my opponents end up attacking him instead of my other models, and well, by turn 3 when Sonnia manifests, he already overpaid his 2ss cost and is usually dead anyway. Regarding Fire Gamin, I played only a couple games with them and they let me down... I think I need to learn how to make them useful. Finally, it is not flully , but Sonnia **really** benefits from a Guardian. Without a Guardian, I can't expose Sonnia too much and that reduces how much fire and death she can spread around. Cheers

Thanks MagicPocket. Very informative!

Congratulations on your win! I am curious if you faced Kirai in any of your games, and if so, with which crew, which strategies/schemes were used for the game and any thoughts you have on strengths/weaknesses of both lists? Cheers

Oh, that is true... I did not realized it also affects how Kill Protegè works... So the question becomes even more important now...

Hi all, Question: in a scrap, if a master hires a henchman (e.g., Lady Justice hires Lucius), does the henchman counts as a minion for the purposes of the Raid scheme or not? Thanks

Yey, looking forward!