snord

Every Monday we meet at XPlanet in Mississauga for some Malifaux Fun. Here is the schedule for November: Nov 3rd, 5:00pm to 8:00pm - Demos and Open Gaming (Henchman led games) Nov 10th, 5:00pm to 8:00pm - Demos and Open Gaming (Story encounter games) Nov 17th, 5:00pm to 8:00pm - Demos and Open Gaming Nov 24th, 5:00pm to 8:00pm - Demos and Open Gaming (Enforcer Brawl) If you are new to the game or an experienced player, show up and have fun. http://xplanet.ca/ 1012 Burnhamthorpe Road East Mississauga Ontario L4Y 2X6 (905) 949 – GAME (4263)

Canadian store: http://www.meeplemart.com/store/p/13649-Malifaux-Arcanists-Snow-Storm.aspx Price is CAD$ that is a bit cheaper than US$. Not sure about shipping prices and policies.

Every Monday we meet at XPlanet in Mississauga for some Malifaux Fun. Here is the schedule for the next couple weeks: Oct 20th, 5:00pm to 8:00pm - Open Gaming, Demos and Challenge League Final Oct 27th, 5:00pm to 8:00pm - Open Gaming, Demos If you are new to the game or an experienced player, show up and have fun. http://xplanet.ca/ 1012 Burnhamthorpe Road East Mississauga Ontario L4Y 2X6 (905) 949 – GAME (4263)

Not sure if it helps you in any way, but I saw the model at my LGS today (Canada): www.xplanet.ca Cost was something like CAD$36 + tax (13.5%). It is not in the website, but you can order by phone.

@Justin, can we please have this clarification/ruling added to the FAQ? I honestly think the current wording allows for both interpretations. Thank you!

What makes GenCon 2015 fair game for new masters?

Awesome work, love McCabe's crew! Specially the chain wastrel!!

Yamasiko, Misaki and Luna: Higher resolution images: http://snord78.tumblr.com/

Hi all, thank you for your comments, I really appreciate. @Proximocoal contrast is the one thing I still struggle a lot and feel my skill is still very inconsistent. I can paint a model where I really get the contrast right and I am proud of the result (keeping in mind I am no pro/competition painter) and the next model I might feel like it is impossible to get it right. Skin in particular has been giving me some trouble because I've been switching my paints from GW to P3 and I find the P3 skin tones too pinky. I literally only learned a few weeks ago that I need to mix green in there to cancel the pink in a natural looking colour. Also, the highlights are not easy to get right, specially on the face, without looking like the miniature is using make-up. I will continue practicing. @monkeyboy for the denim, I find the easiest colours to use are GW shadow grey for the mid tones and space wolf grey for the highlights. On top of that I use slight variations for each model. On one I will shade it towards blue mixing P3 exile blue and/or black, on another I mix a bit of P3 coal black, etc. For highlights sometimes I go towards white, sometimes I just keep it blue-ish/greyish. But just by starting with shadow grey it will already look like denim.

And the wastrels... Full size images here: http://snord78.tumblr.com/

Thanks guys. @Viruk, that is Wyrd's metal base insert: http://wyrd-games.net/shop/40mm-Driftwood-Docks-Bases.html I am not sure how much I like it... looking from the front, it seems like he is inside a boat, what would be cool if it was the case. For a shipwreck in the beach, it would be nicer if it was not so symmetric, but my conversion skills are limited, so I just used it as is.

Decided to start taking some pictures of my minis and uploading them. Recently found that Tumblr is quite picture friendly (no freaking resizings like facebook and blogspot), so there you go: More pictures (with higher resolution): http://snord78.tumblr.com/

I strongly recommend massive voodoo: http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com Click on Tutorials and you will find a ton of tutorials covering from basics to advanced stuff.

@nagash13 : That is a really well done rack! I am afraid I lack the skills, though, to achieve such a nice result! Mine was more like a 15-minutes-even-I-can-do-it type of solution. It is only for bottles, all my GW paints are in a lazy susan or whatever it is called. Thanks for sharing!

@nagash13 : That is a really well done rack! I am afraid I lack the skills, though, to achieve such a nice result! Mine was more like a 15-minutes-even-I-can-do-it type of solution. It is only for bottles, all my GW paints are in a lazy susan or whatever it is called. Thanks for sharing!

Hi all, just thought it was worth sharing. I was hunting for a paint rack to organize my paint desk, and my main goal was to save as much space as I could, so I was looking for a vertical solution. In my research I stumbled on these guys here that seem to have a nice acrylic solution. http://www.back2base-ix.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=364 Problem is it only fits 54 bottles, so I would need 2, and it costs $55 each. Price is not bad considering other solutions that I found, but space was really my main concern. It turns out that my wife wanted to stop by IKEA this last weekend and while following her around I saw this: http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/10177606/ These baskets stack inside each other. I measured the square holes and it turns out the size is perfect for any paint bottle except GW. So I bought 2 baskets for a grand total of $7.50, cut the top of one basked leaving it 2 squares tall, cut the other leaving it 1 square tall, stacked the short inside the taller using a small piece of wire to keep them together and after 15 minutes of work, this is what I got: Simple, but very effective. Stores 141 bottles of paint in a quite compact space. Hope it helps someone out there also looking for a simple solution.

@CRC: I can see how you got to the conclusion of no push if not possible to finish in base contact, but the push away/towards examples in the book do push you as far as you can go until you touch the blocking terrain/model. The issue here is that you are "pushing into base contact", not away/towards something. It makes me wonder if this was a "translation issue" between the two editions and the intent of the trigger would be to "place in base contact" instead of "push into base contact". @GuyInSuit, while I was searching for an answer to this I found a post, if I am not mistaken from Justin, saying pushes do not allow you to climb, and the example on that post was a HT1 wall. Obviously, I can't find the post now. :/ --> as mentioned by Joel in the previous post, it is in the rule book.

M2E is pretty clear that pushes are now done in a straight line and it stops if it contacts impassable terrain or other model's bases. Is it correct then that abilities that say "push this model into base contact" will only work if there is a straight line between the model and the target with enough space for the model's base to pass through? E.g.: McMorning's "Rancid Transplant" is a Rg 8 attack action that has the trigger: 1. In this case, my understanding is that McMorning would push as close as possible to the target in a straight line, but if he contacts another model or, for instance, a HT 1 wall on his way there, he would stop. Is this correct? 2. It also means no more pushing to the opposite side of the base of the target as it was legal in 1.5. Correct?

I will re-post here my comments, as I think it is a pretty interesting post: =========== I rarely comment on blogs, but I have to say I find your post really good and evocative. While I agree with your overall idea of what a master represents, and agree with your reading of the new Lilith model, I have a different interpretation of Misaki and Justice. Misaki: for me the pose clearly shows a mid-martial-move snapshot. It brings across both the grace and the mastery of martial arts that she possesses and that I would not like to face in battle. I think this statement shows the difference in our reading of the model: "From a combat point of view, she's asking for a swift kick to the face or cut to the back of the head". If you consider the model as an immovable object, then you would be totally right, but if that is a mid-move snapshot, then she is not standing still and would appear to anyone looking at her like a moving blur, with an unpredictable trajectory and very hard to hit. Lady J on the other hand looks like in a pose after she finished her move. The key tip for me on that pose is her hair. It is like she jumped, cutting a big meanie in half and then landed, showing off with her extended leg, while the enemies run away and witnesses stare in awe. The way the hair is sculpted gives this end of move momentum impression to me, as while she is clearly still, the hair is still moving. I think Wyrd, like all other miniature companies, have hits and misses in their miniature line. The big difference is how Wyrd is now portraying models in really dynamic poses. I believe it is just a matter of opening our minds to the new possibilities their sculpting process can now materialize. In other words, I agree with you that Lilith is a miss, but I totally dig the dynamic bad-ass poses of Misaki and Lady J.

Great advice from Pierzasty! Pay attention to it! The only bit I will not agree 100% is about buying a cheap airbrush first, unless you know you are prone to break things... go for a good airbrush instead. I bought my first airbrush a few months ago and haven't looked back: Badger Khrome for $129 at Secret Weapon Miniatures. Awesome airbrush for miniature painting, gravity fed, dual action, .21mm needle. On top of that, awesome customer service from both SWM and Badger. Can't recommend it enough. I bought 2 extra needles since people told me it was too easy to bend it, but I disassemble everything at the end of each painting session for cleaning and I am glad to say I am still using the original needle. I did watch all kinds of youtube videos I could find to try to learn how to do it properly and you MUST LEARN how to disassemble it and clean it BEFORE putting any paint in it... very important! http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=95_96&products_id=481 Have fun!

@DeusInnomen yeah, I noticed the same with other models, like Yamaziko. It seems that some images were "mirrored" in the print versions.

Hats off to you! Thanks for sharing!

Cool, let me know!

Hi all, I have some limited edition models that I ended up not using looking for a new home. They are all new in the original packaging. Reference amounts for trade/sales is listed. I am looking for Skorne models new or assembled as long as they are not painted. Paypal is also fine, although buyer pays shipping. I live in Toronto, Canada. * Dreamer/Lord Chompy Bits, Nightmare Edition: $160 (box) * Nightmare Teddy: $60 (box) * Miss Demeanor: $20 (blister) Thanks

@xKoBIEx Hi, I live not too far from XPlanet, and we could try to schedule a game or ten... the only problem I see there is that it closes quite early during the week, like 8pm if I am not mistaken... so it would have to be early...