the good doctor

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=400027&pIndex=1&aId=1300012&start=2 i used this guide as a rough example to get my resser zombies painted. i changed the purple for a blue instead but otherwise followed the idea in the article. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?catId=&categoryId=&section=&pIndex=1&aId=10500004a&start=2 this one for the plauguebearer might be usefull. wouldn't advise GW paints tho. I prefer to use vallejo but use whatever you feel more comfortable with. The best advice i can give to anyone new to painting would be lots of thin layers of paint over one thick layer. the thinner the layers the smoother the transition of colours. I also try new colour schemes on bits of sprue or any unwanted models to help me judge how it will look on the model.

really like seamus and the care bear pattern on teddy. really cool! Must say these mini's deserve some finished bases though. otherwise no criticism here.

think i actually prefer her in red.may have to steal that idea. Really good work all round.

use avatar version model.

really like the bishop. great colours and good work with the skin. its really easy to underestimate the difficulty of painting large fleshy areas well. great stuff.

from what you've said about your personal taste i would start with a neverborn lilith list. very evil and very effective in combat and gives all the goody guild crews a good run. the goblins are good but a bit strange to play at first and a bit squishy! also the goblins will cost you more to set up due to low ss cost.

love the black and white photo style candy.awesome

i printed the errata out and then cut out all the different bits and taped them to the corresponding page on the book. i use masking tape so it can be pulled out without ruining the book itself. got to have the book with to game till you learn the changes but works for me.

marauder games in stockport are starting a malifaux night on tuesday nights. very large games room. the address is North west gaming centre MarauderGames 1st Floor, Hallam Business Centre Hallam Street Stockport SK2 6PT 10 minute drive from the m60 junction 1. over 50 tables available, bar and the lads that run it are top guys. not quite into malifaux yet but i nearly have one converted. they are talking of building a special board just for malifaux if it takes off so show your support guys. doubt i will make it this tuesday but will be there the week after.

pm me when you have next scenario ready. will be happy to give it a try. your first two were a real treat to play through. will let you know how the changes work next week. we will be playing it through again on tuesday i think.

IT SHOULDN'T WORK!!! but it does. Very impressive work. best pandora crew i have seen so far.

I live in stockport. me and two others play this at a friends house on fridays and saturday. took over our 40k night and necromunda. only space hulk sundays left before we totally abanndon gw games and replace them with malifaux.

to all voodoo doll lovers. check out these bad boys i found on here. http://wyrd-games.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8522&highlight=totem+voodoo awesome. should have been cast and sold. hell i would have bought the set.

good solid work. bases are excellent and will really stand out on the table. the limited colour pallette really works on these models. well done.

we replayed greenstuff guys scenario proxying the guard with death marshalls and found again that cordon was too difficult to get off to be useful. and the guard die a bit too easy for the cost compared to the death marshalls. if cordon had come off for them on the other hand it would have been a diffrent outcome. perhaps an added ram in the ca stat as you suggest might work or drop the ss cost by 1 to compensate. we are going to replay with the added ram in the stat on friday/saturday and let you guys know how it went. On a sidenote the scenario plays out well and we look forward to seeing more story based games like this.

GW codex grey base. (3 v thin layers) 4:1 water:paint ratio. Wash with very thin Chaos black (i use bout 5:1 mix)light drybrush with codex grey then fortress grey. at this point i used a glaze of leviathan purple and asurman blue. i have my glazes almost all water about 10:1 . I would leave the fleshy parts of the bird till last after the messy drysbrush work. The best painting advice i was ever given is very thin layers. awkward at first but results are far better. hope this helps.

loving these story based scenarios. keep up the good work and i'll keep my eye out for the next one. just got a seamus, somers and lady j boxes so will get crackin and try the two you have so far myself. liking the idea of the lampost and los rules for night games.

if your talking about the raw muscle on the back of the model i would start with a base of bleached bone with a bit of dwarf flesh mixed. wash with scab red, then with ogryn flesh or gynomme sepia. first for parts i want to look fleshy and the second wash for parts i wanted to look a little more yellow and infected. highlight with base colours again in parts. if you wanted after you have finshed and varnished you could use watered down citidel water effects or a gloss varnish to give the fleah a more fresh wound look.

looking really good, if you check out chronicles vol1 ice man base. there is a wip there showing icicles for the base using syringe and resin. would really finish them off. look forward to seeing more.

im assuming you have the starter set. so i would buy a pack of pigs and mosquitos as your gremlin boxset falls shy of the 25ss standard. Im finding that the gremlins can win a good few games but will struggle against high defence masters like lilith. i would say nicodem box or seamus box with copycat killer would be a fair match but expect to lose your first few gremlin games. they can be difficult to get right. it took me 7 games to actually win with mine.

lady justice box was a nice easy set for me to learn the game with and she is a melee monster. mcmorning set was my second which is great but a bit more complex to use. depends on what your looking for in a game really

Love the terrain so far. am doing something similar myself. would like to see how this progresses especially that lovely resin brickwork. I live in england and work as an estate agent- the only criticism would be that victorian style period properties do not have flat rooves. the one you have done with the pitched roof is exellent. unless you plan on using the flat rooves as a part of the playing area in which case i take it all back. keep them 3 story but i would look at putting piched roofs on them all. oh and majority of properties that old have celler access at eh front or rear as well if you are looking at linking the sewer to your board