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dapatrick

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About dapatrick

  • Birthday 01/31/1980

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  1. So how do you all pronounce Seamus' name? I use "SEE - MUSS" but got into a discussion recently where a local insisted that it was "SHAY - MUSS" I know the later is much more common and accepted, but I have been hesitant to place the H sound into words ever since it sponsored a rather dubious episode of Sesame Street. This has been made all the more confusing (to me) with the introduction of pronunciation guides in Rising Powers. How do people in your area pronounce Zoraida? - I personally avoid it, calling her just "The Hag". What about Silurid? Heck, I don't even know how to pronounce Nephilim!
  2. I guess personally that it depends upon what type of terrain you are trying to make. Yes, O scale is just about right for buildings and whatnot - but you can certainly make terrain that will work for many different sizes. Hills and Rocks and even trees are all items that don't depend upon size, If you are having trouble, I would begin there and then maybe add a building and then a road, maybe another building and just keep adding things until you are happy. Generally most things for sci-fi and fantasy should work fine. If the doors are a little small, who really cares? You don't need to recreate things perfectly.
  3. Looking good so far, but I think your terrain elements are currently too close together. Try moving the 15kg bag to the side a little and maybe stagger your molds a little. Try and make a few corridors for your guys to walk down. Other than that it looks like a really detailed mock up of a terrain table in construction.
  4. I really like the painting on the base, it looks amazing.
  5. Here she is with a new custom base made out of old watch parts. I don't say this often, but the base looks much better in real life due to the lip of the base being black and gradually moving out. Also, the picture really flattens all of the levels to the gears. I may paint a gold clockwork design on it just to pull it apart from the blackness under the gears. So what do you think? Gold clockwork design with Lady Justice written on it?
  6. Thanks for the feedback. I was afraid that most wouldn't like the mustache as his grin is so characteristic. A gaming friend recently left his Lady Justice model unpainted, but primed black with a few of my minis that were also primed black my 'mistake'. I am planning on returning it to him painted as a joke and try to tell him that she is now one of my belle's. Lady Justice looks a little like Lindsey Lohan used to. It was a little tricky painting red hair, as it is almost exclusively made up of brown paint to get the red effect. I took photos of every step of the process for painting the hair, but as it was done in the middle of the night, I don't think the light caught the colour properly and so I don't think the pics will be salvageable. I was surprised by how many steps I will typically do. The hair took about 12 steps in total, or close to 20 layers of paint. I'm still not 100% on it though.
  7. love the cloth. Is it simply drybrushed?
  8. Here are some pictures of my Jack the ripper based Seamus. As such, I have given Seamus a mustache akin to Jack and I have painted him up in a much more traditional manner, matching the colours in the book instead of the miniature featured in the book, which I felt was a bit off. I have thus far painted up two of the belles in very typical colour schemes. I think the last one will either be baby blue, or to stick with the secondary colours, she may be orange. Of note is how poor the sculpt actually is on the face of the purple belle. For some reason a mold line was placed right over her face, obscuring any chance at forming detail. I sculpted half of the face back on her, but left the other half as it faced backwards. Maybe she is supposed to have a mutilated face and huge gaping eye sockets. Anyone else have this problem? Regardless, the problem is largely obscured by the parasol and I think I have covered it up well enough. I have also painted up a few dogs. These guys were easy and great fun to do. I hope to add more in the very near future. Up next to be painted is either the last belle or Mortimer. Its great to push through these guys so fast. I am more than half way through and it was a breeze so far. Now to build some corpse counters...
  9. I would start with a black and add successive bits of blue to the black mix until you have a really deep navy blue. I would then take a grey of about the same tonal value, not lighter, nor darker than the blue that you have down and water it down a bit so that it is thinner, but still holds together. I would then do tiny cross hatching on the higher areas where the light would hit it more. After this was done I would do the slightest of blue washes over the whole thing to really pull the two tones together. Hope that helped.
  10. Those linked buildings are certainly tudor. But that doesn't mean they won't fit. There would still be some tudor buildings strewn about amongst the victorian buildings. If you got one or two and put them in-between the Victorian ones, they would blend really well.
  11. I have looked around and can't really find any, although it seems to me that you may be able to find some really nice stuff around christmas. I have a thread below detailing how I am making a city out of it. It is fairly easy to do if you are interest.
  12. very nice. How do you like having the water there like that?
  13. Thanks for the great feedback! The buildings have been made from foam core off of pictures. I don't have blue prints, I simply make a sketch of the building and figure out the orientation of it in terms of the larger city and then convert it into foamcore. I sketch it directly on the foamcore and cut it out, making the design as I build a level. Today was the second stage. I used the last of my polystyrene to build a second level to the city. RIP my turkey knife as apparantly the flesh of birds is stronger than the flesh of panthers. > This will be the sewer system. I made this so that it will go beneath either the city streets or some of the solid buildings so that they can be picked up and the mini's in the sewers can be moved around. As you can see in the pictures, the sewer layout is pretty simple. I may make this a little more complicated as the city design shifts, but the idea isn't necessarily to be a board in itself, but a different way to move about. I will put sewer caps coming up periodically. I haven't decided if this will be the first part I finish, or the last part. As this has progressed, I have begun work on a tower. I am still monkeying with the design for it, but I think it will have a steam operated elevator so that you don't have to spend all game walking up stairs. No pics yet. I have begun to put siding on the buildings however. I have been wrapping sheets of uncured resin around them to good effect. I don't want to go into too much detail and have these posts run too long, but if you want more info, just let me know. That is what they are starting to look like. I should have done this step before I put on any window sills, so for those following along at home - remove anything that sticks out. Again, I have to amazing hidden secrets so I would be happy to go through one for you. Here is a final picture of how the layout is looking and to give you a sense of what the cobblestone will look like over the sewers. I really lucked out by happening to have built buildings that you can't enter, as they will need to be moved to get at the sewers under them. The sewers have no base in historical accuracy, or even necessarily make sense in terms of where and how they are placed, they are really just there. Whatever, I play the artistic license card on this, live with it. I also visited a local watch shop, Marcou Jewlers in Waltham Ma, world famous for making their watches and was given a few broken watches after I explained the project to them. They are full of amazing gears and whatnots. Look for them to appear in future installments. Thanks for the great feedback guys! Awesome encouragement!
  14. Big things are happening in the world of Boston. After about a month or two interest in Malifaux I have managed to tug a bit of my 40k group towards the game with small subtle suggestions. Its funny because they think that this is their idea now. I have one guy in fully, with 2 starter box sets of Guild, another just has a rule book, while yet another just spent $100 ordering stuff - and he already has a rulebook. God knows what he will come back with. So we now need terrain. I have decided to work on that straight away, before even assembling the models - heck, I even started before I bought anything! I really like almost all things Jack the Ripper (except for from Hell, although the movie was ok). I pulled out one of my Ripper books; what it lacks in content, it makes up for in atmosphere. Using the building designs of White Chapel London, I began to construct a possible Victorian city Malifaux terrain. Living in Boston, I was never very far from great architectural inspiration and a quick drive along the Charles across from Harvard University was all I needed to get the creative juices flowing. AC Moore currently has foam core for $1.29 a sheet. couple that with an exacto, a fine point sharpie and a metal ruler and I have all I need to make the early stages of some cheap terrain. I was thinking that with this kind of a board, quantity will win over quality. The goal will be to get as many building as possible on a board and to get as many as possible as historically accurate as possible to the London slums of the 1900's I planned on building removable floors on all of my buildings so that you can get inside and really play around. I am toying with the idea of stairs, but I may leave this as a detail left out currently. After completing a few, it became a bit too much work and it appeared that the entire city wouldn't be very strong. I decided that if I made about every other building modular, that would likely be good enough to really allow movement without being too much unnecessary work. Before I picked up the mini's, I was making the floors 3" high. This turned out to be too high, and now only the bottom floor is going to be 3" high, with all other floors 2.5" high. Both should be enough room for most size 3 models to move into. (I assume, but am not playing any size 3 models - what is the largest model in the game?) I am going to shingle up the roof and use some plasistruct and card to make loose bricks in various spots, but I am not totally sure where and how I will do it. I don't plan on covering the whole building in card, but maybe some spots. So I guess I am about half down. It has cost about $5 at this point (pretty cheap) but I will need to pick up another few sheets of foam core. This is my vision. To be added are a 'workshop', likely with a large big ben style tower, possibly a hotel and a new orleans style graveyard. I also just got some of the plastistruct tile. I plan on pouring into the recesses of this to create a cobblestone road. Well, back to work for me! Just thought I would throw this up here to see if there is interest. I will try to keep it fairly up to date.
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