Spacemunkie

Nope. It still looks ropey.

Well done, but a bit busy for my tastes.

It's a real bobby dazzler. A must-buy for me.

Top notch.

The guy at the following site has been using RPT for a while now. Loads of cool stuff, and a hint of the future of miniatures, action figures and toys (amongst a great many other things) I reckon: http://www.southerngfx.co.uk/information.htm The guy knocked this up in three hours... http://www.southerngfx.co.uk/graphics/gfx1a/gfx-zbrush26/img9.htm

Wham, Bam, Anti-Spam. Mine is filled with all sorts of saddo's trying to beg or blag your cash. It's utterly impossible to police properly so it's simply up to individuals and companies to ensure their own safety. It also helps if the people who host your site used to be hackers:D

Pan Oceania stuff is absolutely rocking. The big Briareos dude, orc troopers and those new ones posted there are the nadgers.

Quality.

Monkey-orc is bobbins and a real wasted opportunity.

I like all of their stuff so far.

Hmmm. Dunno about that. There are some pretty specialised courses out there now, and graduate labour in this country is dirt cheap....

The technology is improving. It's just a matter of time until rapid prototyping can produce 28mm scale minis accurately. You can get a RP done for around $100. All you need is your 3D wireframe, so companies wouldn't necessarily need to invest in the tech. Employing 3D artists doesn't cost that much, and there's going to be a lot of people with these sorts of skills entering the labour market over the next few years - I've seen at least 5 of my students go into 3D graphics in the last couple of years. The computer games industry is rife with talent and could easily be plundered. 3D printing is on its way too, so be prepared for some serious pre-painted minis in the future! GW already has this tech and when they realise how useful it is, I'm sure they'll be using it. A lot. Personally I can't wait. I think it'll open up the way for some fantastic minis.

Have to agree with LA. Dodgy proportions on this chap. Master Pinselknecht has done a mighty fine job of making a very ordinary mini look very good, however. Nice work!

It's Jerome! I thought the aliens had abducted you! Merry Christmas!!!

Hi all. Thought it was about time to knock a quick tutorial together showing you how I do this. Bear in mind that there are other ways to achieve a similar effect (you can use Extract to isolate the fig for example), but this is the one I like because it gives me plenty of control. EDIT: I didn't tell you to crop the image down to start with. And before you save it, you should resize - 500 pixels high is good in most cases Stage 1 - Exposure correction. Straight from the cam. You can see I have shot onto a white background. Try to use a single coloured, light background for easier editing later on. This is a touch under exposed (I bracket my exposures but chose this one to show a Levels correction...), so the first step is to go to... Image > Adjustments > Levels: You will notice the large gap at the right-hand side of the histogram. It shows a lack of white and light areas in the image. In this pic, the highlight slider is green, the mid-tone slider is blue and the shadow slider is red. What you are aiming to do is close the sliders up to the ends of the histogram as shown, giving you a complete range of tones. The mid-tone slider can be adjusted as you see fit. I gave it a tweak here. Hit OK and you have just corrected your exposure. You can use Colour Balance to correct colour casts at this stage. Stage 2 - Sharpening You may want to sharpen your image. I don't usually, but the best way is to use Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask. It's all a matter of preference really, just be aware that over sharpening will create a noisy, contrasty image. Stage 3 - Isolating the mini onto a new layer. I use the Magic Wand here. On the Tool Options at the top of the screen, you will see 'Tolerance'. This value can be changed to make the tool more (lower number) or less (higher number) sensitive. I usually set it at about 20. Click on the background, then hold Shift and keep clicking on the background until you get it all selected. Remember that you can change selection tools without losing your selection, just hold Shift again as you use it. Holding Alt and selecting allows you to remove parts that are selected and works great with the Marquee selection tools for removing light bits of the mini that sometimes get selected by accident. Stage 4 - Invert selection. Easy. Select > Inverse or Ctrl+Shift+I. Stage 5 - Contract selection. Select > Modify > Contract. Helps to reduce the 'haloing' effect you often get when doing this. I usually contract by 1 pixel, but you can play around. Depends on the res of your cam too... Stage 6 - Feather selection. Smooths the selection, giving a more natural, less pixelated edge. Select > Feather. I usually use 1 pixel but again, have a play. Stage 7 - Copy selection to new layer. Easy. Just press Ctrl+J or copy and paste. It'll appear as Layer 1 on the Layers palette. Stage 8 - Adding a gradient. Grab the Gradient tool. Make sure you select the Background on the Layers palette. Double-click the gradient on the options bar at the top. This will bring up the Gradient Editor. You can double-click on your Colour-Stops to bring up the Colour Picker. You can save out your gradients too - always worth doing! Remember that strong colours will knacker the look of your mini!. Simply hold Shift and drag the gradient tool up (or down...) on the background. Bingo, piece of piss! Stage 9 - Save for web. File > Save for web. For posting on CMON, you need images smaller than 100k. Use the Quality slider on the right in conjunction with the image size on the right-hand image to optimise your JPEG to as near to 100k as poss. And that's it. It takes a couple of minutes to do each one once you know what you're doing.

Yes. But even less. And some shotguns. Maybe Mac10s. Top half looks good, but the bottom reminds me of Chewbacca! So basically I like the heads and faces. And they're too expensive to hack up just for those :rockon:

They need less filligree. And guns.

Ditto. Wish they'd do something a little different with them now. The game is a blast though. I can see why they're doing so well.

Gonna have to get me some ninja gobbos.... :elefant: :spank: :viking: :ciao: :hippie: :secruity: :gone:

Looks ropey to me. I'd like to see a painted version.

Madness. I really like their Japanese gobbos and that treeman is very nice. Their paintjobs continue to lead the way. The bottom one is really spoilt by that horrendous rock stuck up its arse!

Yet another silicon chested, badly posed, poorly sculpted hair-ed cliche. And she's a minger. I'm picky too

"More to the point, why are you looking at personal stuff on company equipment in company time, Jim?" Main reason for a written warning I think

Chuffing class! You've even managed to make those dodgy Rezolution figs look good, especially the Dravini. The 'Nam stuff is excellent. But it's the arcade machines that steal the show for me! Quality gaming at your gaff

My problem with mini nudity is that most of it is bloody tacky. It's not offensive, just cliched and usually rubbish. There seems to be one press mould for 28mm tits that everyone uses - 36DD, siliconed, with big nips - AKA PornTits! Honestly, it reeks of sculptural maturbation to my mind. Like a 3D Vallejo painting. And I dislike most of those too.... If you were running into battle with a huge 1.5m broadsword, would you want your over-sized jugs slapping you in the face and putting you off your stroke? No, you'd have them lashed down, probably under a decent breast plate. maybe a good, strong sports bra. Rant over, you can go about your business..... :thumb: