Hateful Darkblack Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 I was originally going to get the Day-Glo Pandora set, but I decided I loved the translucent green and wanted that. I'm planning to set up LED lights under them in the base (and will post about that later) so I am not painting these models. 1. I really like the way the sprues are laid out for the Crew. Each piece in its own separate section, with label. Very clear. It seems like this layout makes it easier to sell individual models too. I'm hoping that'll happen more often. 2. Online instructions! At first, I thought "that's too inconvenient and I'll do fine without them" but then I realized that I'm terrible at assembling models, and went to them online. The archive is really handy and the little slip inside the box with the URL was helpful. Totally works! 3. Yeah, one of the Sorrows is smaller than the other two and that's totally fine. 4. I decided I'd be making these unpainted, which changes things. No paint means no green stuff which means don't mess up. It turns out, I messed up a few times anyway, but it looks okay because it's hard to see the mistakes with transparent-on-transparent. 5. They look like jewels! They look like candy! They look like the precious precious figurines from Tennessee Williams' groundbreaking 1944 play The Glass Menagerie! 6. Getting any glue on the outside details of the models makes them a little more dull and opaque. You definitely must use plastic glue, and be careful to get it only at the joints between pieces. Superglue is a bad idea and I didn't even try it. 7. I was worried that filing would make the pieces lose their luster. It did a little bit, but only in that spot and most of the places where I needed to file (mostly where the sprues connected) were out of the way, so this looked fine. 8. Pieces which meet the sprue in the same place that they join with other models are a problem still! I'm lookin' at YOU, Candy! That piece was probably the hardest to assemble because of that. Pandora's hands were similarly difficult. 9. The pieces look really nice! Even with a few mistakes, they look glorious! I was worried every mistake I made would be magnified, but actually the way the transparent glass looks kinda liquidy, everything kinda looks like it belongs wherever it is. 10. That extra-short Sorrow? The instructions say it has some kind of weird separate shoulder piece. I couldn't find the piece so I attached the arm directly and it looked fine. 11. I like how the connectors in general are shaped so that you can only fit a piece at one angle. However, with the transparent pieces, sometimes this meant putting on a piece and rotating it around until it fit, because everything was too transparent to see. 12. My next step is to put in the LEDs. I just bought switches and watch batteries this morning, so we'll see how it goes tonight after work. If I can make some sort of simple awesome system for how to do that, I'll post pictures and instructions about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-lom Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 I can't wait to see them. I was torn on the day-glow or the clear. I ended up getting the day-glow. What kind of bases did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hateful Darkblack Posted December 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 4-lom, I'm just using the standard plastic bases, but putting LED lights in them and modding them further afterward. Will post pictures once I've gotten somewhere with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 There is a special plastic glue for cockpits of model planes which should work even better for gluing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nagash13 Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 i am eager to see how this turns out. i was thinking of a similar LED plan, but then i remembered i have well over 300 models assembled and waiting their turn for paint, and decided to go with dayglow. also i wanted to add some paint so i figured the clear would be wasted on my plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 There is a special plastic glue for cockpits of model planes which should work even better for gluing them. What is it called? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-lom Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 I look forward to your pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nagash13 Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 what glue for clear plastics? who makes it? my google-fu was strong today, i give you: http://www.testors.com/product/136938/8876C/_/Clear_Parts_Cement_Window_Maker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisNebula Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 I picked up this set too and am looking forward to putting it together but am also nervous to screw it up! Looking forward to seeing yours. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to leave mine completely unpainted as well, but I want to put them on painted bases, and have the bases painted before I put them on so I don't accidentally get paint on the clear models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mentor Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 I picked up Testors Clear Glue for Cockpits and I am not a fan. It dried very much like the glue that holds advertisements in magazines, meaning when I touched the model it fell apart like I was watching a cartoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nagash13 Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 I picked up Testors Clear Glue for Cockpits and I am not a fan. It dried very much like the glue that holds advertisements in magazines, meaning when I touched the model it fell apart like I was watching a cartoon. this makes me a sad panda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 That canopy glue is essentially elmers glue, and meant for static models that don't get played with. It won't hold your plastics. Judicious application of any poly or abs solvent glue is your best bet. If you're VERY good, you can use super glue, but be aware that it may haze/craze the plastic. Any super glue quick set will help mitigate that, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordDarcy Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 What is it called? Testors "clear parts cement & window maker" The product code or manufacturers part number is 3515CT. Mostly sold in places that sell a lot of models especially airplanes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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