Jump to content

UN-painting models.


knoerzer

Recommended Posts

okay luckily for me I only have one figure that has plastic and I am not repainting her (Sonnia Avatar). I have enough figures to try several options, so I may take nail polish to one of my guys to see how it works.

I am pretty sure that I am not going to try brake fluid on the fact that to many animals outside can get it and children can find it lol but I am hoping pine-sol works due to the fact that I already have it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on the paint used and strength of the acetone you might need a crappy toothbrush to get the stuff out of the cracks. The first time I did this I had extra strength remover and just the act of pouring it on the plague priest I was striping caused the paint to slough off. Some of the other stuff I've stripped with the cheap stuff required a little bit of brushing to get clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay so its a little later than 10 pm haha, but some good news and bad news about Pine-Sol. First let me say that my father and I use an oil base paint called Testors if anyone has ever heard of it. It is really hard to get off metal (and fingers).

Good News: After sitting in Pine-Sol for 9 hours, I put the figures under hot water and ALMOST all the paint came off. Now I say almost because I still had a few small patches left over here and there and the tooth brush couldn't get them.

BAD NEWS: since this is OIL based paint when I did put it under water it spread the most amount of color around. ex. my death marshals had red coats, so after I got done with rinsing them off I could see faint red smear all over the figure. But it wasn't anything a little primer couldn't cover up :)

So I have my next batch in Pine- Sol already and they have been soaking for about 3 hours now, but I am going to let this batch sit longer. I am thinking either 11 hours or 20 hours. It has to be one or the other because I have school in between.

Sorry this is such a long post, but now that I have primed two of my Death Marshal's, I am going to start painting them. I have them primed with a flat black. Now HOW ON EARTH DO I GET A REALISTIC LOOK ON MINIATURES!?!?!?!

BTW: I will be using all flat paints unless told of a better way!

Thank you guys for reading and helping me out!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

step zero prime them with good quality spray primer. black is a good choice for starters.

step number one. don't use testors! invest in at least the small games workshop starter set to get a few basic acrylic paints.

step two thin the paint with water when you get it on your pallete

step three apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat

step four learn how to drybrush and wash (google those terms for examples. youtube has some video tutorials)

practice practice practice. There are tons of pro painters on here who can fill you in on the details, but those are the basics.

good luck!

Edited by Maniple
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome thank you! I really don't have the money to get anymore paint thanks to school and being fired for going to school <--- funny story!

Anyway, I started on my 1st Death Marshal. I primed him with a thin layer of flat black, then let him dry for an hour or so, then started painting him with a flat red in thin layers. I have my second layer on and it looks better than ALL my other figures!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

okay, I have a few questions about it if you wouldn't care to answer them for me please.

1.) Where can I get this product? ex. wal-mart?

2.) Do your models feel sticky after you pull them out?

3.) Do you need to brush the paint off or add water to the mix?

4.) How many times can you use a cup of this stuff before you have to

refill?

Thank you for all the help guys!

1. I bought it in a store that sells artistic stuff... paints, brushes, canvas, etc.

2. No stickiness at all. Bright shiny metal. Even shinier than the original out of the blister... :)

3. On my minis, I just washed after. No need to brush. Disclaimer here: I only used it to remove acrylic paints. The label says "to remove dried acrylic and oil paints", but I haven't tested with oil paints.

4. No idea... I guess it depends on how much paint you have to remove.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I still have the tooth brush ready to go if i need to wipe anything off :) I just want to get out of class and start painting again! I wanted to join the painting league (Can't remember what it was called) where you have to submit WIP and then a picture at the end of the month but I fear its to late :/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information