Army Painter Quick Shade

[Lnastudillo]

Has anyone Tried using this stuff ?

They have it at my local store and apparently you just dip the minis in and take em out shake off the excess and it shades them up, but Im not too convinced on the effectiveness of it.

If anyone has used it, what are your thoughts ?

[WEiRD sKeTCH]

I believe my LGS owner has tried it out.

I'll ask him what the results were like.

[Ratchet]

A friend of mine uses it and I'll say its impressive. He uses the light and medium versions for the bulk of his troops. If you're painting a table army, this will cut down your time and you'll have a very presentable army.

If you want to enter something in a contest, then I'd skip this and do all your shading manually.

The stuff 'is' expensive, but my friend says it goes a long way.

Next time I'm over there I'll get some pics of his Eldar army up-close.

Hope that helps!

[whiskey2000]

I use the stuff it's great i don't dip though , i put it on with a brush . It takes a while to dry and has a high gloss finish to it, all you need to do is use a dull cote on it . It gives good protection with the gloss finish and saves a lot of time . I done my Nico crew with it i will put some pics of them up later when i find my camera.

Paul

[Trash]

My LGS pointed out if you google the "Minwax Dip", you will find they have very similar results.

[Chucklemonkey]

Haven't tried it yet but it had been looking into 'dipping' as a way to quickly paint my Goblin Army and end my GW painting.

Apparently you can also use general woodstain to just as good effect which may or may not be easier to get your hands on/cheaper.

Ninja'd : Ronseal is apparently good for it if you are UK based.

[tenabrae]

I use the stuff it's great i don't dip though , i put it on with a brush . It takes a while to dry and has a high gloss finish to it, all you need to do is use a dull cote on it . It gives good protection with the gloss finish and saves a lot of time . I done my Nico crew with it i will put some pics of them up later when i find my camera.

That's pretty much it in a nutshell.

There are 3 tones which will work best on different colours, the 'strong' tone is the medium (an almost chesnut brown) and is good on lighter colours. I also found it poor on flesh.

What I ended up doing when I painted a GW Space Wolves army with it was to ink the darker areas and do washes on the flesh, but everything else was just flat colour with army painter splashed on.

And yes, you can use wood stain instead for a lot less cash.

Here's a copy of a post I made on another forum late last year when I was experimenting with Army Painter.

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These are skeleton bone (army painters bleached bone) base spray, and a heavy white drybrush. The other colours are all totally flat application. In general, the coat of army painter strong was fairly light (I think). The Storm Shield has a heavier application and you can see it's pooled a bit at the bottom (which is emphasised in the extreme close-up of the photo).

IMO it's done a terrible job on the face (which is P3 midland flesh, pretty close to GW Dwarf Flesh I think). I'm not entirely happy with its effecto nthe light grey either, i'll be inking the wolf tails on the next lot I do.

The boltgun and it's shells had a heavier coat and you can see how much more it's filled in the recesses on those.

I'm really happy with the way it's lined the armour joints, the elbows and the gorget for example.

In this example, it's a P3 bootstrap leather coat with a drybrush of GW orc brown then generously brushed with army painter strong.

[ork56]

http://www.dysartes.com/model/painting/Dipping1.php

try this for a good review of dipping and the many types of stain you can use. they are UK based, but also reference US/European products

[Lordfishbane]

Minwax stuff is way cheaper and gets the same result- you need to get the water based acrylic (blue can) as the normal wood stain can interact with the paint and cause it to never fully dry.

I would suggest also the after the dip has dried to hit it with a matte coat, the stain will lift and mix with the paint if your laying other colors on the model.

[GreyHorde]

I tried brushing on Minwax on orcs. It looked okay, but stained the paintjobs somewhat. I mean, it colorized any paint it touched, even though it flowed into recesses failry well. Then I tried Army Painter 'Dark Tone' on a group of skeletons - much better, IMHO. It went on thicker than Minwax in some ways, but I was able to mop off the highlights without staining them quite so much and push it into shadows & recesses. It stayed put and made a nice finish overall. Glossy, but a couple coats of Dullcote and they were good to go.

[Buck Dog]

I use Army Painter Quick Shade, and I love it. It is a little pricey, but a pot will last you for a very long time, especially if you apply it with a brush rather than actually dipping. I would say that if you do go for the Quick Shade, it is also worth picking up a can of the Anti-Gloss / Matt Varnish spray, as the miniature do come out extremely shiny.

I am currently painting my WHFB Vampire Counts army with it and while it is perfect for speedily painting the hordes of zombies and ghouls, I am not going to paint any of the characters with it as it obviously isn't very precise; and personally I am not going to use it for any of my Malifaux minis : I think when you only have 6 - 8 minis in a crew, it is nicer to take a slower, more detail approach.

[Larkin Vain]

I've used it recently to speed paint my Khador army. I like it a lot. While it is like min-wax (which I've also used) here are some differences I've noticed.

1. It's thinner. It doesn't go on as thick as min-wax

2. It dries faster. It stops being sticky after a couple hours while for min-wax it takes at least 24 hours to lose its stickiness.

Here are some pics of stuff I've dipped.

A video of how I dipped my khador jack.

http://miniaturemayhem.net/2010/04/04/my-khador-paint-method/

Hope this helps.