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Zirenius

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Posts posted by Zirenius

  1. Okay dear folks of this forum,

    It's been a while. Life got in the way, so I had to sell my Neverborn to pay for repairs. Things are looking a lot better in 2018, though. Thus, after changing factions and taking the opportunity to start a new faction, here‘s the first two models for our upcoming campaign. They are almost done, Francisco’s sword needs work and The judge‘s base still lacks color. Still: what do you think?

     

    3UIo8Pv.jpg

    9TeTFP9.jpg

    vXfEkcW.jpg

    LYBa9rk.jpg

    Sebastian

    • Like 4
  2. 7 hours ago, Shadowoni86 said:

    Hallo Wyrdos,

    My Name is Nico I`m the Henchman in Cologne Germany and I invite you all to come to the TopTables to test and Play Malifaux.

    Untill chrismas you can find me every Thursday and Sunday.

    Go visit www.TopTables.de for more informations.

    See you there:)

    Wow, so I literally just emptied a bunch of Black Friday sale boxes and hung out with our new Henchman and did not even mention Malifaux.

    Stupid me. Very nice fellow, great store, perfect atmosphere. If you happen to live anywhere even approximately close to Cologne, go there and give it a try. ;-) 

  3. On 11/13/2017 at 2:07 AM, Flinroz said:

    Yeah, that's usually the case. I've got a standing trade offer on something else from a guy in New Zealand, but ugh same deal.

    Sorry. Bit slow in replying here. I am currently considering the Black Friday sale - that might be an option though.

     

    Thank you very much @SurreyLee, Miss Ery has arrived in fabulous condition. Much appreciated and a perfect person to deal with!

  4. On 11/12/2017 at 10:41 PM, chryspainthemum said:

    You're good with what you have, but WHEN you get around to grabbing your next set of models, I'd probably look at scheme runners (Gupps/Silurids (ideally Zoraida's box) for Claim Jumpers, or Insidious Madnesses for sheer speed). And then maybe the Lilitu/Lelu box for Lilitu (the lure and 4" engagement are nice). I don't think you really need anything else, but those are some other models I really like to use in certain pools, and their abilities aren't really replicated within the rest of your current lineup.

    Thank you. I think I will indeed get what I have painted first. Your suggestions sound fine down the road. I will see where I go from there. :)

  5. On 11/15/2017 at 10:53 PM, Nikodemus said:

    I just watched a bunch of videos, often on the background while I painted so it trickled in bit by bit. You know, sometimes you get absorbed into painting and whatever audio there is on the background just fades away :D

    I really like Romain's videos (the one Ludvid linked to), his take on colour theory is a bit long, six parts total but worth a look if you don't mind his... well I know people who don't get along with his kind of people. It's an attitude thing. I myself can't get enough of him. He's also done non-theory painting videos for BoW, most I've seen are from quite a few years ago by now.

    Vince Venturella has a half an hour episode on the subject, good channel for lots of painting related videos I might add:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVb4jiig0zo

    There's been other videos, some text articles, I forget them. One Ludvig linked looked good. As always google is your friend if you want more.

    You're right that it'll take a while to sink in. But if you're the type that likes to paint, likes to play around with paint, you'll probably get something out of it.

    sorry, I was offline (sick) for a coupe of days. Thank you very much for the video, started watching right now, as I am still off work for a couple of days...! :)

    46 minutes ago, tmod said:

    Try Mako's stuff on here, organized in nice odds. Should be easy to search for, but at my phone at work just now, so can't do it myself...

    Will try! Might be the same Mako I have seen over at another game's forum, I guess.

    26 minutes ago, Ludvig said:

     

    @Mako @dgraz and @SpiralngCadavr are great painters who have been here for a long time. Unfortunately all the image links I found to Make and Graz in their threads seem to have gone bad. Cadavr's threads still seem to be around. You can google their handles and find a few of their works it seems.

    thank you! google did indeed turn out some of their very nice work. This will keep me busy :).

    • Like 1
  6. On 14.11.2017 at 7:26 PM, Treehouse said:

    To add to all the tips you already got, if you want to mix a highlight for red, vallejo's model color 'sunny skintone' works very well.

    Especially if you want a cooler overall tone. You can the use white to highlight it even further. If you use white exclusively, the red turns to pink quickly. 

     

    In gerneral, you should try to balance the colors used, for example, you can highlight green with yellow or white or another light green. Either can work, but when combined with other colors on your mini ,one or the other can look a bit off. So if you have some old/cheap models lying around, you can experiment. 

    Looking into colour theory can provide useful tips too. For example, that yellow can be shaded with purple. 

     

    22 hours ago, Nikodemus said:

    Knowing a bit of colour theory helps when I get stuck on a paint scheme or am looking for ideas. Makes for good background material to listen/watch to when painting too. Plenty of written and video resources online.

    I guess what I've got out it the most is it gives language to how I think about painting minis. Last mini I painted had purple, gold (=yellow) and pale skin, with a bit of grey metallics and black in it. Purple was a main colour so I picked gold to do trim and other such parts because it contrasted nicely with purple. I shaded the skin with purple, as that harmonised it with the main colour of the mini. I painted a few miscellaneous parts black and grey metallic, because those look neutral and don't steal attention away from the important bits. You could do all of that intuitively, sure, but having the words helps me make more informed, conscious decisions about these sort of things.

    Thank you both very much. What you are saying about color theory sounds very valid. Unfortunately. I dońt know anything about it and thus could never come up with your suggestions myself.

     

    may I ask - is there any kind of book or internet resource that you would recommend on color theory? I don‘t mind taking some time to thoroughly read up on the matter...

     

    On 14.11.2017 at 6:01 PM, Ludvig said:

     

    @Zirenius

    I have a few more here, hopefully they will give you an idea of how to do some NMM. I don't seem to have any pics of my finished McMourning or Sebastian but I'll share my shoddy WIPs because it looks like the metal was close to finished on them. Apoligies for the picture quality.

    https://imgur.com/a/OqO74

    WIPs of Seb and McMourning

    https://imgur.com/a/VFn7V

    Thanx for sharing! That does give a better idea on NMM - I alread saved some video links to watch tomorrow. This is such a nice and helpful place, I really appreciate it!

    • Like 1
  7. 38 minutes ago, Ludvig said:

    I used to have a few of them in my gallery here but space was limited so I started an imgur gallery. I will send you a link this evening when I'm on my home computer.

    Here is my forum gallery. The guild guard and guard captain were made with true metallics because I was in a rush. The rest is NMM. I am unfortunately crap at taking pictures and haven't had the energy to get help from my mate who has a light box. 

    Thank you for sharing, I'd love to see more of your work when you get around to sending me a link. :-) I'll be getting some more colours today anyhow, so I'll also try regular metal on the next mini down the line. We'll see. Have a nice day!

    • Like 1
  8. 14 hours ago, Nikodemus said:

    Some people like to work like that, you certainly can. I don't. It might take me a day or a few weeks to paint a figure and during that time I'm quite invested in it. But once that's done, once I stop working on it it gets really difficult for me to get back to it. Each figure is its own little (more or less) uninterrupted journey and what's done is done. That's how I enjoy this hobby. Some people do it differently.

    I can fully relate to that philosophy, thank you. Still got almost a month to go + the tournament is only 40ss, so that should be doable. :)

    13 hours ago, Ludvig said:

    The only cheating is entering a painting contewt with a model that someone else painted.

    NMM is just harder to get right so naturally everyone had to do it. ;) I started trying NMM when I got into malifaux and now I'm kind off stuck because I have so many models painted NMM that I can't make the switch to true metals again. I'm still not very good at it.

    That's what I meant. Everybody in my local community + most of the guys on here and another game's forum I read seemed to be doing NMM. My pool of painted figures is limited, so I will try both. Also, now I will try to find pictures of your work on here, as your post sounded like understatement. ;)

  9.  

    8 minutes ago, Butch said:

    There is no cheating in miniature painting or whatsoever!

    Cheating would be if you took part in a contest and behave ageinst the rules.

    Just do what you want. Its your hobby, your miniature, your hobbytime, your painting ability etc.

    You have to decide what you want to achieve. I paint my Malifaux miniatures with about 8 hours each. My Project Z miniatures with about 1/2 hour. On the table with a distance of 1 or more meters you may recognize a difference, but maybe not a big. Right before your eyes? Definately!

    The three most im portant thing in miature painting and gaming miniatures would be IMO contrast, contrast and contrast.

    That is highly appreciated. I agree that I like Lilith way better if I don't zoom the camera in on her. She'll be fine on the tabletop. :)

    48 minutes ago, Nikodemus said:

    Get that nonsense out of your head right now. TMM (=true metallic metal), drybrush, airbrush, whatever, none of that is 'cheating' or 'lesser' painting or anything like that. There's a time, place and taste for everything.

    If you like how good NMM looks and are willing to put in the effort, absolutely do that. Just be aware that while TMM is a lot easier to do a decent low effort job on than NMM, both are techniques that allow for a lot of effort to be put in. There's no reason you couldn't put deliberate highlights and shadows when working your TMM.

    Keep an open mind, try new things, perfect old things, have fun. You'll do good.

    ____

    Bit of C&C, starting with the photo itself. In the future you might want to try and get a whole picture, ie. this one has sword and tiny bit of coat out of frame. With some figures, including this one I'd say, there's value in posting two or more photos. With Lilith front and back shots seem most pressing, as she has a big coat that's not really visible from the front but is a big part of the mini when on the table. Now if you do her three terror tots, we don't necessarily need full 360' view of each, it's pretty much a naked demon baby from every angle.

    Good tip I've found is to take your picture a bit farther back and then crop the image down to just the figure. It helps my phone camera to focus on the mini better, but keeps excess clutter out of frame. I use my phone's built-in software to do the cropping.

    As for Lilith herself. I like her. You tried to do a lot with the skin, face at least but I see some colour variety in her arm too. That's always nice to see. I'm a bit 50-50 on her lips. They're very bright, kiss kiss red lips. Not how I see the character, but on another model they'd work I'm sure. And if you're fine with lipstick on Lilith, well she's your girl. If you want to pick out the lips but not go for such bright effect, I'd suggest you mix some red or purple, probably a bit darker shade, in with your skin colour and paint that on. Could also try it without the skin colour and apply paint very thinly over a few layers. But that's down to taste and your idea of the model in question.

    Looks like you highlighted her hair towards pink? Looks a bit off, better to use orange, or some flesh colour, or just off white to highlight if you want to keep it red. You already got told to try and be a bit neater, re: black on her boot. Sword also looks like it was black and you gave it a grey drybrush, looks ok towards the tip but root of the blade just looks a tad unfinished. Just in general try to work on how and where you place your highlights, shadows and all that stuff. There's plenty of tutorials that'll help you along as you keep painting more minis.

    Overall it's a nice early paintjob. Should look good on the table.

     

    Thank you very much for your feedback and advice!

    This was my first attempt at lipstick and putting on some makeup tones for the face. Honestly, I agree that it did turn out a little harsh maybe... You are spot on about the hair - the pink looks a little weird. Also: the blade - I did dry brush two levels of highlight onto the blade, which for the base of the sword does indeed not yet look optimal.

    Thank you so very much everybody for being so detailed in your feedback. I will definitely try to keep your advice on taking pictures in mind for the next miniatures and I will post them again - I need to somehow get a crew done before December 9th, but I don't want them to look terrible. 

    From your experience, is painting miniatures to a tabletop standard and doing the detail work later on viable? I would much rather take my time in the long run than rush things to be able to field a crew...

    Have a nice evening!!

  10. On 11/11/2017 at 12:52 PM, Ludvig said:

    @Zirenius

    Feedback is important when starting out. A good way to improve is try to paint together with someone you want to learn from. 

    Painting metals without metallic colours is a pretty advanced and time consuming technique that requires wet paints and some careful planning to get the best result. That being said I think you did a lot better than me in my first tries and I had been painting for years when I tried that.

    There are very good tutorials if you search for "non metallic metal". From the looks of this picture I would say you want to thin your paints more and finish it off with a few extreme highlights of pure white on a couple of the tips near the hilt and at the curve of the blade. 

    If you want an quicker way forward for getting things on the table I recommend metallic paints on the whole area, a metallic highlight and then doing a wash with a dark normal colour over it all. 

    Thank you. I found a local guy I can do some painting with. As to the metals, I think you are right - will be watching some videos on non-metallic-metals, as I really like the look of them if done right. However, regular metallics might be quicker to get the first crew together.

    Somehow I picked up the - probably wrong - impression, that using metallic colours takes away from the paint shop in any way. That is likely nonsense, what do you think?

    • Like 1
  11. On 11/10/2017 at 8:35 PM, Flinroz said:

    I have plenty of guilder if you wanna go that route, not sure if shipping from California would be.

     

    Let me know if you if you want me to look into it. I've been meaning to do a guilder order anyway, so I could just get the model and mail it to you, so you don't end up paying to ship guilder, than again to trade them in.

    Hi there,

    that is a very generous offer. However, I am afraid that shipping from the US might be really expensive... I also double-checked if there are any other models from the guilder store that might be of interest - however, I don't think so. Thank you for offering anyway, though!

    Also, maybe I'll get lucky in the Black Friday sale. :)

    Have a nice evening, 

    Sebastian

  12. On 11/10/2017 at 1:45 AM, Hatter said:

    Ludvig is correct, the two you have will make for a good start and it will take you quite a few games just to get a handle on them (I recommend easing in with Lilith first, she can play a very straight forward, killy game, but to really shine I think you need to use her as board control instead of a hammer.  It is a good lesson for the game as a whole).

    Among other masters, you have some good models for Lucius, that could also be transferred into Guild, if you wanted (graves  and tannen).  Rougarou are decent too.  I personally just prefer Lucius to Lynch, so that's my bias.

    Thank you very much for the advice. Right now the plan is coming up with viable 40ss lists for a first tournament in December and getting the crew painted up. I am too slow to have all models painted by then, but I am confident that Lilith might be flexible enough. I really like the Guild aesthetics, so that might happen at some point in the future. :)

  13. 1 hour ago, Ludvig said:

    Looking good! You picked it up a lot faster than me if that is your 6th model! Really liking the face in particular.

    Some cleanup of the "leaked" red as suggested would make a big difference. Not sure how noticeable the shoe is on the tabletop, I would consider that good enough.

     

    If you want to have more vibrant black tones and differentiate different black objects I recommend highlighting black with some colour instead of flat grey. Vallejo's Dark Sea Blue is a great highlight colour for black and you can also use dark browns like scorched brown. If they get too obvious you can blend back with watered down black.

    Is the sword done in metallics? It's hard to tell from the pic.

    Thank you very much for your suggestions. I am currently working on some other miniatures just to gain experience and confidence. (Plus, I want to be able to field a crew for my first tournament in December... :)) The sword is actually just blacks and greys, no metallic colours used there.

     

    1 hour ago, LastBellTower said:

    Not bad for a new painter (new painter myself). I think the mini could do with a bit of a tidy up in places, the pool of wash on the boot,  red on top of knee cap & corset strings etc. Also a bit of colour on the blade handle might help break it up a bit.

    I agree. The things you mention are obviously negligible at tabletop distance, but I was a bit untidy in the spots you mentioned. Thank you for the positive overall comment :). Much appreciated. I was actually hesitant to post here, as there are so many gifted people on this site . Hope to be making some good progress on the rest of the crew...!

     

  14. 18 minutes ago, Voodoo Specter said:

    What you have already is a pretty solid start and you will be able to take on all of the strats and schemes with it. Between Lynch and Luicius Lynch is a better choice in terms of what will work well with your existing collection as you can take everythingin his box in Neverborn and illuminated are great minions to have while the models in the Luicius box are all guild models (and not that great guild models to boot) so can only be taken with him in Neverborn and getting some of the best models to take with Luicius would require you to buy more guild only models that only he would be able to ise in Neverborn. I also think Lynch is a bit easier to get your head arround as a new player.  Both of those masters play quite differentlyfrom eachother but they are also both different enough from the 2 masters you have to give you a varied play style by just swapping your masters arround.

    Personally I would recommend Lynch for best synergy with your existing collection but if you are a big fan of Luicius and would prefer a expanding into Guilld then do it.

     

    Thank you so much. Yes, I did buy the models I have after reading through what I considered common denominators of the factions. :) Leaning towards Lynch!

     

    8 minutes ago, Ludvig said:

    Three masters at the same time is the absolute max to start with for an experienced player I would say, fewer is not a problem but a strength for learning.

    I would stick to what you have for a while. You have the neverborn all-starts which gives you a really solid core and none of the two you mentioned will add that much. Don't get me wrong, illuminated are great but you are already drowning in expensive models and good 7ss minions from Titania's box so if you get Lynch a lot of your stuff will just be collecting dust. Lynch and Lucius are also generally trickier than Lilith or Titania so there are really few scenarios where one of them would be a better choice than learning Lilith and Titania better.

    Play around ten games to get a feel for what you are lacking before you consider more purchases would be my advice.

    Edit: I do agree with Spectre that Lynch gives the others more options while Lucius will keep his toys to himself. That said if you like Lucius you could go for him and get great use out of the models you have since you're already sliding into his theme with the three mimics you have and Titania's minions. I don't think Lynch uses the models you have in a better way.

     

    you, my friend, are the welcome voice of reason! Thank you for confirming my choice in models so far. After all, they still need painting... thank you for your time!

    • Like 2
  15. Dear users, who seem to have way more experience than I do.

    I just recently started collecting Malifaux and picked the Neverborn as my first faction.

    So far, I have purchased 2 masters (Lilith, Titania).

    On a podcast (schemes and stones), I heard the sound advice to start and stick with three masters with widely different play styles. 

    Could you please enlighten me, as to which third master might best add to what I already have? My budget is somewhat limited at the moment (100-ish) and my collection features the following miniatures so far: Lilith box., Titania box, Waldgeists, Mr. Tannen, Mr. Graves, Primordial Magic, Nekima, Doppelganger, Nephilim, Rougarou. 

    I looked at all the masters. Fluffwise, I lean towards slowly transitioning into Guild via Lucius, or branching out into Ten Thunders via Lynch.

    I am open to any suggestions. If one of the branching options actually makes for a valid start into a second faction, so I could have two functioning crews at home to play casually with friends, that'd be a great plus. If my question has been answered a million times before, I beg your pardon and I'd be happy to delete it. However, I think that the changing meta and new releases still give it some validity and I hope that you'll share some insights. Thank you very much and have a lovely evening,

    Sebastian

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