Millertime

Great idea, and probably the real answer to this problem. In this particular game the Strategy was Guard the Stash, really pushing it in favor of his crew being able to stand in the middle and score while denying me.

I have recently started playing Shenlong and am enjoying it, but ran into an apparent bad match up tonight against an all construct Hoffman crew. Between their armor values and healing abilities I quickly determined combat wasn't an option. This is a player I will likely see a lot of locally so I wanted some help on what I can do. I am trying to avoid switching to a different master entirely for now if that's possible. What options exist for me to deal with armor? The only 10t model I know of that ignores armor is the Samurai but they might be an expensive answer, SS wise. The Peacekeeper was a particular problem with its ability to mass remove scheme markers. I'm open to buying whatever I need as I'm planing on expanding this crew anyway. Currently I own the Shenlong box w/ sniper, 10t Brothers, Thunder archers, Izamu, and Tengu. Thanks for any thoughts and opinions!

I'll see if I can get a solid answer for you. I know of about a dozen that have said they would like to make it, but nothing committed. I see the time of the event changed, did the SS levels or anything else change?

Great write up, and a great first impression. I really liked the comment on "turn 4 fatigue" as you called it. I do think you'll continue to find that missing in Malifaux going forward. Considering you didn't play with objectives, I'd say it just gets better. The pace of Malifaux is really a piece of work. The 3x3' play area, movement and weapon/power ranges, plus survivability of models means that the action usually gets heavy in turn 2 and stays strong through turn 6 at least. Playing for objectives often means the victory is still up for grabs up to the very end. I've had my entire crew wiped out save for one model and still managed to maneuver for a draw. I've heard others talk about winning the game despite getting completely wiped out on the table.

Thanks everyone - great info there. In the end I think I'll try brush on primer and sealer going forward. But hopefully the tips on restoring the minis that have already been affected will help, and I'm sure at some point I'll be back to painting squads that beg for spray primer

I have had some recent issues that I believe were due to high humidity - just wanted to know if anyone agrees or can confirm/deny what is going on here. First when priming some models I occasionally get a rough surface that looks sort of "chalky". It's hard to paint over this - paint doesn't flow well and of course it dries with the same rough surface that looks bad. Second, when spraying a sealer on models I sometimes get a white dusted effect after it dries. It looks fine immediately after the spray sealer is applied, but the next day when it's fully dry, flat black looks dark grey, metallics get muted, and all the colors sort of blend together with a lighter hue. These two things happen independently from each other - as in I've had bad primer jobs that were painted and sealed with the dusted effect and I've had good primer jobs that suffered during the sealing. It's unusually hot and humid for this time of year here and I seem to remember once hearing that high humidity will do this but I don't know where I read/heard it. If that's true, is there any solution? Obviously spraying indoors is out of the question, and even at night here the humidity is high for several more months. -edit- I should say that I'm using GW primer and Army Painter matt sealer cans.

Hopefully not swaying too far off topic here To be fair, GW does do something like this. The box sets come with a small rule book that is only rules - no fluff, no force lists. Then they sell the massive rulebook (for a ridiculous price..) that includes the rules and fluff, painting tips, etc. THEN they also sell the force lists as separate books each But I do agree on your advice/suggestion for the future of Malifaux books. I think the current setup that basically requires all three books plus some online FAQ/compendium lookups is more of a result of this being their first written and published ruleset. I think the decision to sell the small rulebook at a very reasonable price reflects that Wyrd just wants to make their customers happy. Great point here. Malifaux is an amazing world with some great stories and artwork scattered around, but the website is NOT pulling it's weight. I first heard about the game from a local gaming group that mentioned a few of the more popular current systems in play. I looked at several games and was not at all interested in Malifaux from my visit to the website at first. I loved the minis but I wasn't even really sure that the game rules were a serious product from first glance. Wyrd really could do themselves a huge favor by overhauling the webpage with some better content and layout. How about some game reports from the team with multiple action shots of the game in play. Put up some small excerpts of the story line from the books. Give a brief bio of the world, it's factions, and the players of each. Have the art team put together some desktop background worthy hi-res art of the game world and it's characters. Great discussion in this thread btw

Well done :rock: And good points.

I would like to know what everyone else sees in their local gaming forums - in terms of how active the forums are and what they provide. (Long ramble ahead, just skip it and reply to the above if you're not interested) :dozingoff My brief gaming history and why I ask this: I live in roughly the same place I grew up - I now live just outside of the city, but I work there and spend a good bit of time there. I started gaming in the early 80s with RPGs, and got turned on to miniature wargames around 1990 or so. In those years I've seen a lot of local game stores and gamer groups come and go, with varied amounts of success or lifespan. There have been brief periods of really active gaming groups around certain stores but for the most part it's been a lot of smaller groups that do their own thing and usually just stick together, gaming at someone's house. For an area with the population we have, the gaming scene is pretty bad. Currently there are three stores with a half hour's drive that are "dedicated" gaming stores - that is their main or only line of business. There are at least that many more that do a small business in gaming, such as the local Hobbytown USA stores. All of these stores have permanent gaming tables. They have good inventory, good staff, and pretty much all the things that make a game store "good" to me - and like I said, I've seen a lot come and go over the years. The problem is the gaming groups in store are hit and miss or sparse at best. Each store has a "gaming calendar" that plans certain games or genres on a given night of the week. Most of them hold regular tournaments - at least twice a month. They have free tables and most have in store terrain or other accessories. But the groups are usually small. It's hard to get a game sometimes because you never know who is going to show and what they might be playing. Each of these stores has a web forum. I am a member of three Yahoo groups and three meetup.com groups just for local gamers. But all of these outlets are near silent or empty. There are a lot of gamers in the area but they aren't talking. I try to get conversations started and plan events in advance and the posts get views but rarely a response. I'd start to question my personal smell but I see others post things now and then that get zero response also. Anyone else experience this? There used to be one Yahoo group for all the gamers in the area and it averaged about 80 posts a month just a few short years ago. I think now we have too many groups with too few people in each, but I just don't really know what is the cause.

I'll be there :dance:

Thanks for all the replies! It sounds like most agree the game balance is based on that board size. Also I really like the idea of floor tiles

Hello all - new to the game and forums here. I picked up the game and some minis a few weeks ago as a local game group here plays it regularly. They play 35 pt crews on 3'x3' boards. I see that the rules suggest "at least" a 3x3 board but the store's boards are actually 4x4 so they mark off 6" a side to give a 3x3. I played my first game today and the board felt a bit small. It seems odd to me to mark off part of a board to reduce the size unless there is some imbalance caused by anything larger than 3x3. I've only played the one game so I was interested in opinions of those with more experience - is 3x3 what is balanced for the rules or is larger better?