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Shadowopal

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Posts posted by Shadowopal

  1. I do a big display for Halloween in my front yard. So, I most likely will not make October (I'll be running around frantically fixing things most likely). But, I'll try to make the december one.

    I'm working on Halloween. After that, I'll be getting into Malifaux promo mode. So, expect big things around the first of the year at Black Sun Games (if not before maybe).

  2. A lot depends on the store owner and the participants. If the participants are willing to pay different prices for boxed sets, you're golden. If the owner is willing to find a baseline for the boxes and take a loss on a few of the boxes, you're golden. The prices on the boxed sets are:

    BODY THIEVES BOX SET - MCMOURNING $36

    BORN ON THE BAYOU BOX SET $35

    CULT OF DECEMBER - CREW $31

    GREMLIN BOX SET (SOM'ER TEETH) $37

    LEGION OF SORROW - CREW $32

    LILITH'S BROOD - CREW $34

    MERCENARIES BOX SET (THE VIKTORIAS) $38

    MINERS AND STEAMFITTERS UNION - CREW $35

    ORDER OF THE CHIMERA - CREW $32

    ORTEGA GUNSLINGERS BOX SET (PERDITA) $38

    SPIRITS OF VENGEANCE BOX SET $43

    THE DEATH MARSHALS - CREW $34

    THE DESOLATE AND THE SOULLESS $45

    THE HAG'S PUPPETS (ZORAIDA) $38

    THE REDCHAPPEL GANG - CREW $31

    THE SHOW GIRLS $39

    THE UNDERTAKERS LOT - CREW $28

    THE WITCH HUNTERS - CREW $31

    Thats a $17 gap between boxes. And that price does not reflect their effectiveness in a tourney setting, necessarily. So, an evening of the field at $28 means almost a 40% deficit on the more expensive boxes. Most stores don't get that much of a markup.

    Second, you owner would have to commit to having either multiple copies of each box or you have to register weeks ahead of time with your boxed set selection to make sure the owner will have them in stock (most will not commit more than a week out from an event.

    Third, you would be ostracizing players who already have the crew(s) of their choice.

    A solution I would offer is:

    1) Players must register at (insert your local Games store here).

    2) Player must register their faction as well.

    3) Cost is $50 (or pick an amount with your owner)and must be paid before the date of the tourney. Fee will be applied to Malifaux product bought (or ordered) for the tourney at (insert local Games store here) and one copy of Rising Powers. Any left over funds will be applied to prize for tourney. The earlier you register and pay, the more likely you will get the models you want by the tourney. The owners will do their best to get your product in by the tourney. However, shipping and supply at our distributor will impact the chances. So, register early!

    4) Players may use any Wyrd minis they own, from their selected factinon, at the time of the tourney.

    This is a great option for new players and players that already have a crew (as they can use the $50 to add some blisters to their current faction or start a new faction). The owner isn't eating any cost and may even have some leftovers for the prize.

  3. Howdy all. I run a Warhammer Fantasy League on Tuesday nights at Black Sun Games in Chicago, Illinois. However, I'm not diggin 8th editino right now. So, I like to get Malifaux games in and am trying to convert some of the locals. So, if you're interested in getting some games in, I'm at the store by 5pm on tuesdays. I'm trying to get some experience in with the Dreamer. So, that's my focus right now. I always have with me (if you'd like to try a different crew, don't have a crew, or want to supplement your crew for bigger game):

    Arcanists

    Marcus Boxed Crew

    A Ramos Boxed Crew with a proxy Steamborg Abomination (as I haven't assembled the real one yet)

    Rasputina Boxed Crew

    December Acolyte

    3 Hoarcat Pride bases

    3 Mole men

    Essence of Power Totem

    Wendigo Totem

    Guild

    Lady Justice Boxed Crew

    Sonia Criid Boxed Crew

    Perdita Boxed Crew

    Neverborn

    The Dreamer and Lord Chompy Bitz

    Homemade Stitched Together x2

    Homemade Lelu x2

    Homemade daydreams x5

    Homemade Coppelius

    Proxy Lilitu x2

    Proxy Alps

    Lilith Boxed Crew

    Pandora Boxed Crew

    Zorida Boxed Crew

    Doppleganger for fun

    Ressurectionists

    Nicodem Boxed Crew

    Seamus Boxed Crew

    Outcasts

    Outlaw Gunslinger

    Killjoy

  4. where are you putting the magnets? I have some small ones I bought to use on my spider swarms but I haven't figured out how to do that yet, and I'm thinkingo f doing it for hte coryphee.

    I gave up trying to magnatise the legs. What I did was use a junkyard theme for my bases. I found small items (barrels, buckets, sandbags, piece of broken masonry) for other miniature lines and pinned the spiders to those pieces. I didn't try to pin them standing straight up. I pinned them crouching on the items. So, the pin didn't show much. Also, I pinned them on angles and such.

    After I pinned the spider to the bits, I them mounted a magnet in the bit. Gave me more space to drill into to hide the magnets. then my bases had a magnet in them and other bits of detrius to make the bit look like it's a part of the pile. Did the same thing on a 40mm base so that all three spiders would fit and look like a scuttling swarm ready to pounce. Turned out rather nice. Looking to do the same kind of thing for the coryphees.

    The theme I'm looking for is a stage. So, planks of wood. I'll probably pin the coryphees to a single plank and then cut it to fit a space in the 30mm and then make a 40mm base with the same missing plank and then magnatize the planks.

    Hope that all makes sense.

  5. Pinning is necessary if you don't want to carry glue with you all the time and wait for him to cure every time you play. I pin every join on every model I assemble. I don't like to fix models after I've painted them. But, I'm probably excessive. However, I would recommend pinning the tail too.. But, again....that's me.

    If you've never done pinning, these are the supplies you'll need:

    1) Pin vice - you can find these at game stores or online. Make sure they hold micro bits. Games workshop's pin vice is pretty good and includes a few drill bits. I think Gale Force Nine makes one too. there are others as well.

    2) drill bits the size of a paper clip.

    3) paper clip

    4) side cutters or wire cutter

    5) Glue

    6) flie

    7) Blu tac- this is the putty you can use to hold your posters on the wall. I find it at Office Depot.

    optional

    8) Green Stuff to add extra support to pins in the base.

    Steps

    1)Insert you drill bit into the pin vice with the sharp end out. Not meaning to sound condescending. But, I watched a guy put it in the wrong way. So, I assume nothing now.

    2) Tighten the chuck

    3) find a nice thick part of the foot that will touch the base. The wider the better also, try to find a place where you can drill deep. The longer the pin, the stronger then join. You may need to file the foot flat to prevent slippage of the bit.

    4) twist the pin vise clockwise until you hand hurts or you feel like you're going to punch through the leg. You don't need a lot of pressure. So, don't break the bit. The bit will do the work.

    5) Insert your paper clip into the hole and make a mark with a sharpie marker so when you pull it out, you'll see how deep the hole is. I go for 1/4" at least. but, that's me. Others may disagree. But, I've never had a pinned join break on me. Keep drilling if necessary.

    6) Put some super glue in the hole in the foot and insert your paperclip. Wait for glue to dry and cut the paperclip off about 1/4" above the foot to give you your post to glue into the base.

    7) If you have two feet that touch the ground on the model, I reccomend another pin in the other foot. Repeat steps 3-6 for that foot.

    8) prepare you base as you would normally (texture, add inserts...whatever). Now, this is where you'll need the blue-tac. Take two small pieces of blue-tac. Smoosh them on the base approximately where you want the feet mounted on the base.

    9) position you mini and push the pins into the blue-tac. Carefully, pull the mini out of the blu-tac. You will have indents where the foot posts are. This is where you will drill your holes in the base. You may want to drill it a little big to make insertion easy.

    10) Drill the holes.

    11) drop some glue in the the base holes and insert the posts into the holes.

    12) when the glue dries, you can flip the base over and add some green stuf underneath to firmly secure the posts into the base.

    13) You may need to trim the posts a bit. But, it will depend on your base. If you do, just use the side cutters/wire cutters.

    Any questions...let me know. Hope it's clear.

  6. For gameplay:

    Coppelius

    Alps (hopefully multiple sculpts as I have a few in my list)

    Daydreams (multiples)

    Stitched Togthers (2 sculpts)

    For cool looking mini

    Hoffman

    Freakcorps...any/all

    molly

    freaky cerebus hound resser

    All the mounted minis (cause horses are cool)

    Snowstorm

    Dust and Goo (Don't have book in front of me and name escapes me)

    Nix

    That's what comes to mind.

  7. Thanks Dan. That's what I've been doing too. But, it get's confusing for me even.

    More curious if to anyone has found good proxy models from *GASP* other companies?

    I spent last night modifying some bald shirtless celts into Lelus. Not even close to done yet. They are a little small. But, at least they will be identifiable. I'm also converting us a Coppellius from a zombie. Again, a little small...but...you know. These just have to get me by until the real deals come out. So, I'll update my list above of figs as people post ideas. Cheers.

  8. I know this has been asked in other threads. But, I'd like to collect the answers. So, what are you using to represent the new Neverborn until they come out?

    NEVERBORN

    Coppellius

    -Zombie with some sculpting (photo below)

    LeLu

    -Bald Shirtless Celts with some sculpting (photo below)

    -GW Dark Eldar Male Wych

    Lilitu

    -GW Dark Eldar Female Wych

    -http://www.freebooterminiatures.de/shop/shop_files/img_3/CHA002_2.jpg

    Stitched Together

    -Sculpting my own (photo below)

    Alp

    -Plastic Warhammer goblin with some sculpting

    Nekima

    - CMON Pinup with wings added

    -moded Lilith as Nekima, she currently has the wings of a mature and a tail from Reak from everblight, in hordes

    -http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/demon/sku-down/14083#detail/14083_mr

    -http://www.freebooterminiatures.de/shop/shop_files/img_3/CHA005_2.jpg

    Codelli

    -Neran The Scary from Rackham Minis

    Marionette

    Doll

    -Zorida's Voodoo Dolls

    Insideous Madness

    -A bunch of random monster parts and green stuff (photo below)

    Daydream

    -Probably sculpting (photo below)

    -Wyrd Imps

    OUTCAST

    Gunsmith

    -Taryn di la Rovissi (pic below)

    -Valeria Alvaro (pic below)

    RESSURECTIONISTS

    Night Terrors

    -Fell Bats from GW

    Shikome

    -Two different succubus models from Reaper

    Molly

    The model that comes with Gorshade from Warmachine.

    Necrotic Machine

    A stitch thrall from Warmachine

    Dead Rider

    Cryx Calvary Model

    Spirit of Lost Love

    Empire Militia model from GW

    Guild Autopsies

    Guardsmen/Death Marshals

  9. Agreed. Schemes are cool now that I'm learning more about the game and how my crews work. I will begin to use them in games with experienced players. I'm trying to get a group going at my LGS. So, I think it'll be a few more games before they are ready for schemes. Most have only had 1 or 2 demos with me as the teacher lol.

  10. Thanks for the response Dan.

    1) Cool. That's how I was reading it.

    2) Interesting. I'll have to keep that in mind in the future.

    3) again cool. That's how I read it.

    So, my opponent should have received 2VPs (1VP for Hold Out + 1VP for Thwart). I'll have to watch out for schemes more carefully in the future and start to choose a few of my own ;).

  11. Did a search but didn't come up with an answer to this. I had a game on tuesday. I'm fairly new to the game (8 games now) and haven't even touched schemes yet. Busy just learning my crews. I forgot to mention that to my opponent who's fairly comfortable with the rules. We used Book 2 rules (we both had it long enough to read through it once at least).

    So, he chose schemes and I did not. He chose Thwart for the Outcasts (Gremlin player) and Hold Out. I won the strategy (Shared Contain Power)with 4VP (3VP for killing all Masters and Henchmen and +1 for killing al Totems). He got 1VP for Hold Out (did not announce obviously) and claimed 3VP for Thwart (2VP since I did not earn VP for any of my announced Schemes and 1 since I did not announce any schemes). This made our game a draw (4VP to 4VP).

    Not knowing schemes at all and being my first game with the Dreamer and Nightmares, I was thrilled to have tied. However, I decided I should look into schemes. I'm not begrudging my opponent 1VP for Hold Out. He got that. No question about it. However, the Thwart one has me puzzled. It reads as follows:

    Thwart (Outcasts Only)

    Sometimes, preventing the opposition from winning is reward enough...

    Special

    You may not announce this Scheme.

    Victory

    Score 2VP if your opponent does not earn VP for any of their announced Schemes.

    Score 1VP if your opponent does not announce any Schemes.

    I'm not understanding three points on how he scored for this strategy:

    1) It reads like he should score 2VP if ALL of my ANNOUNCED Schemes scored no VPs. I didn't choose any schemes. Therefore I couldn't announce any. Should he have recieved 2 VP?

    2) I did not choose any schemes. Is this the same as not announcing any schemes. Should he have received 1VP for this?

    3) This one reads as an either / or situation. You get either 1VP OR 2VP not both. There is no "+" sign in front of the 1 VP for not announcing schemes.

    Thanks for the help. I don't care about the game. I'm pleased I did as well as I did. I just want to know for the future.

  12. Thanks for the replies,

    The lamppost is something I picked up at a terrain building event years ago. It is from some urban terrain made by Games Workshop. It originally had a giant spike hanging off the lantern but I clipped it so Teddy would fit.

    Ahhhhh! That's right. i thought it looked a little familiar. LOL I have some of those on sprue. Time to build some terrain :).

  13. Also, a flat white background has been mentioned. A sheet of paper does nicely. I have noticed that your backgrounds are in focus. I think your camera's AI is deciding to focus on that as it's farther away. I know it's not the natural thing to do. But, if you're not in macro mode, the camera will ignore things that are too close in favor of something within it's depth of field range. If your camera will not take the pic with a white background, back up a little until it will. You're better off with a pic of mostly white and a figure you can see sharply if you blow the image up than a nicely framed but blurry shot.

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