Jens

The Witchling stalker is finished now and Papa Loco got his repairs.

Unfortunately holidays are over and I won't have so much time to paint minis in the upcoming weeks.. anyhow Perdita is next and the last Mini of my old crew. After that I'll start with Colette

Today the Peacekeeper and granny Abuela Ortega join the crew

The peacekeeper kept me busy all day... he was never fully painted and he was in several pieces with a lot of chipped paint - but at last he is finished now 🥳 even I don't like the old model in particular.

@lusciousmccabe The Witchling isn't done.. I just wanted to give the new plastic minis a try and find colors that fit my old crew. The other two old metal versions of the Witchlings were only very roughly painted and I wondered if I should finish them some time or simply replace them with the new ones.
Some of the old orginal sculpts had a lot of character and and I prefer them still - Gael Goumon made some great sculpts.

@Sphynxy TV Sure - that sounds like fun! Great to know there are more from Berlin here

I'll gladly join the painting challenge in February. I'd be really happy if I manage to get a full crew done by the end of the year and this challenge might give the needed kick / motivation not to get sidetracked. I'm aiming at the 'henchman' status and take my mulligan for January. And I made myself a promise not to buy a new box unless I painted at least one miniature from my last purchase

I'll start with Colette for this month.

Three more ready .. the new versions of these models look so much better. I guess I'll replace eventually , but for now they'll do just fine: The Judge, Nino and Francisco Ortaga:

Today I started assembling the Collette du Bois crew. Dear me... very very fine details.

Santiago Ortega was in rather good shape..

.. that left me some time to start on a second witchling stalker and my first plastic mini from Wyrd.

Rather challenging because many details have very low profiles... I'd wish they'd exaggerates them a bit more.

Pretty much all have some chipped paint or smaller parts did brake off.. so it's mainly patching up these areas. And if I can, I try to add a bit more contrast on all NMM / add some edge highlights and such.

Today a witchling stalker was added / restored. And on top of that my new minis arrived.. the newer plastic versions look pretty cool, but some equally challenging to paint.

Good start - I'd like try to accentuate a bit the volumes of the Teddy. I just painted very roughly into your photo what I mean by that

Personally I'd likely not try to paint any fur texture - it can look great, but is a lot of work and I'm too lazy. If you want to go the extra mile - a great inspiration on how to paint fur can be found here imho: http://haekel.free.fr/spip.php?article130

Thank you for the replies - I got one now.Since Yardeg lives in Germany too it was the most convinient offer.

I'm only intrested if the mini is still in the sprue - but thank you for the offer.

Hello,

I'm searching for Miss Terious - I have a rather big collection of limited / rare miniatures. However prefably I'd just pay the money - something around 100$  including shipping to Germany (something with tracking).

Cheers

Jens

I agree that it would be prefable to have her turn into avatar form by turn 3, but I don't think it's realistic to get more than one requirement done and paying two precious soulstones for the transformation is more than I'd like to spent most of the time - it would depend a lot on my hand at that point I guess.

The part that bugs me a bit is that in her avatar form she seems less flexible - her high DEF coupled with her defensive triggers almost ensured that it would be a waste of resources trying to focus her, yet with her damage output noone could ignore her. In her avatar form due to the much lower DEF she'll need Soulstones to stay alive or has to stay in cover all the time and while she has a easier time hitting anything if your opponent got cover / armor she won't be able to do much harm at all. She now depends on her crew much more.

After reading the rules on Perdita's Avatar I was a bit under whelmed at first - I expected them to be extremely powerful killing machines, but they rather provide you with new options and as pointed out in the initial posts take away quite a few.

My thoughts: Loosing the high DEF (coupled with all the nice reaction triggers if anyone should miss etc.pp), critical trigger and the obey spell hurts. The biggest strength seems her ability to craft a really powerful hand.

I wouldn't want to start a game with her in the avatar form - however most likely we'll have a realistic option to turn into the avatar form around turn 4 and at that stage she can really prove interesting. From my experience usually turn 1 is more about positioning and optimizing the hand cards ... with the avatars ability to craft a good hand we can use all the high cards in turn 2 and 3 without risking a weak / unpredictable hand in turns 4+ (or at least keep the risk minimal). And on the other hand turn 4+ is more and more about objectives - flight comes in very handy. And her maneuverability gets better both in a defensive as well as offensive fashion - flight + increased weapon range allows her to take a shot or two and keep out of range of more dangerous enemy models or if anything is within 12'' and LOS she can first check the range with a pistol shot and after that make that dive attack and get a potential 2 additional attacks - 3 attacks on anything within 12'' and the ability to move 10'' with one activation can prove useful I guess.

Even though I really like her totem with the obey ability, if you intend to use her avatar form you could include the brutal effigy minion now (one master of your crew may not have a totem if you want to include him) - ability to heal any model with a 9 (no suits requirements) is good or the ranged option to give an enemy model slow.

Anyhow I think the Perdita like all other avatars will bring new options to the table, but they are really more of an option which is good.

Really impressive and inspiring - looking forward to updates :puppet

I was really happy when I received the mail by Angel from Studio Giraldez with the pics of a few minis I commissioned:

Can't wait for them to arrive and to reinforce my Guild crew. These minis were NOT painted by me but by Jose and Angel - still I think they are worth sharing, afaik they did a great job :smugpuppet1

The local store charges 14 € for topcoats and I assumed that would be roughly the standard price - ah well, I don't need a lot of it anyhow. But I'll try getting my hand on the brush on version.

Yesterday I only menaged to assemble my next two Malifaux miniatures that I want to get finished by the end of this month.

As mentioned there are two other Skirmish-Games I want to build up a small force:

For Hell Dorado I want to finish this one here (basically I have to paint the other side of that mini still + come up with some fancy base):

And one more miniature I need to finish that has been on my desk half finished for 1 1/2 years - it's for Ron & Bones (I'm an expert in painting the front of a mini and skipping the back)

(Since the thread has been named 'Tale of Malifaux painters' now - if this thing should be restricted to Malifaux now I'll skip updates on the Ron&Bones and Hell Dorado progress)

To my knowledge there are three types of clear coats:

* some simply protected the colour from enviromental influences - you almost don't see the difference once they are applied - you find these in art stores. But they won't help you to protect your minis from game usage (paint will chip almost as easily as if you hadn't apllied it). The brand Schmincke has several pretty good ones and I usually apply a thin layer on any non-gaming models

* the more glossy kind such as the purity seal by GW are the best when it comes to protection concerning gaming. They dry hard and you can apply a slightly stronger layer since they are perfectly clear, but the downside it their semi-gloss or glossy finish.

* the ones with a really flat finish tend not to protect the paint too well and if you apply multiple layers they will eventually change colours a bit etc. pp - they are best used as a really thin layer after a glossy clear coat. I was told testors dull coat is the best, but unfortunally not available over here in germany. There are several pretty good ones you can apply with a brush or airbrush however. I mix a bit of Tamiya flat base with a vallejo varnish - that kills all reflections but you have to be very careful with the flat base medium by Tamiya (your miniature will look almost as if frosted if you add too much).

I use Topcoat flat by Mr.Hobby (japanese brand) - unfortunally really pricy (88ml sprying can cost around 20$), but the best one I found so far and if I'm careful with my miniatures when playing the protection is good enough.

Milliput is at least cheaper than kneadite and fairly nice to work with. Personally I add 1/3 of Fimo since it slows the curing a bit and makes it a bit more elastic + you can bake it if needed later (even with 1/3 Fimo it will cure nicely without any baking).

I stayed with the GW primer - if you consider that you usually prime easily several 100$ worth of miniatures I wouldn't do any compromises in quality, you'll likely save much less than 5% overall value if you consider the price of miniatures, putty, paints and all the other tools needed. I bet there are potentially many products that do the trick for less money, but a can of primer that is of lesser quality is completly wasted.

I know that many historic painters use casein colours as undercoat - I usually use the spray since it's faster, but if I have to coat smaller parts or something I use casein colour too (or alcohol based colours such as the Tamiya XF Line, but they are smelly and likely not really good for anyones health). I dunno about brands in your region, but it goes under plaka colour around here (since the best known casein colour has been named that way). The tamiya and casein colours stick really well and the give sufficient roughness for the acryl colour layers to stick well.

Edit: One last word regarding casein colours - if you apply very watery layers of acryl colours the first layer might get partially soaked in. But if you apply a thin film of casein colour as base coat you should harly notice it. After the first thin acryl layer you won't notice it either way.

I really liked reading the fluff so far and I'm looking forward to more - really refreshing mix of genres. My only complaint / critique: there could be more :happypuppet1

Something I'd personally love to see is a seperate book with a few short stories or maybe even an audio book (no audio play, but I simply love the voice of good taleteller). Doesn't need to feature any game characters in particular ... maybe told from the point of view of ordinary citizens of Malifaux, Miners ...

At last I decided what I'm gonna focus on - the mandatory part is at least one model for my Guild Crew (Malifaux) and one model for my Egares/Lost (Hell Dorado). If time allows it I'll try getting a Showgirls (Malifaux) Crew running and then there is a myrad of other potential things to do (Ron&Bones and Infinity being the most likely).