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PwnyBownz

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  • Birthday 08/24/1975

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  1. Games usually play out by the Viks getting tarpitted with minions (zomibes or stpa) until desolation engine, killjoy, or Nicodem get in range to do ridiculous damage. There's quite a bit of terrain, covering at least 40% of the board; any less would be extremely fatal. Even if I do get whirlwind off, they all come back the next turn by exhume or whatever. My games usually come down to Taelor tanking till the bitter end. Gunslinger usually gets picked off first everytime I've tried to move him within range, so I've kept him in the back field on objectives. I've never fielded Masaki so I'm not confident with playing her or know her tactics. In other words: get a librarian Stat!
  2. Well, I try to get a good screen of Ronin going with harmless and move through cover and once I've intiated combat, fast the Viks into the fray with student of conflict. Gun Vik leads does a strike or pops a buff, then gets switched for sword vik, who depending on the suits in my hand does the whirlwind bit. Convict Gunslinger sits on objectives to slow people up, and Taelor takes to the front lines and pushes people back. That's what I've come up with that can actually kill a couple of models...
  3. Holy $%#! Well that changes a lot of things. Guess I should read the book more thoroughly.
  4. Yeah, I've had my eye on the vonschill box for a while now. That furious healing sounds like just what I need. Thanks! What do you mean by taking schemes to get soulstones?
  5. Hiya, gang. I've been playing the Vikkies but I can't seem to get my crew to work. I either have a terrible hand or my soul stones get immediately soaked by casting masters pwning me, or Remi one-shotting me from across the table and having to resort to 2nd turn damage prevention and healing flips. I know the Viks shouldn't be on the front line, but sometimes it just happens. I'm facing all ranged and caster crews, mostly Nicodem, Mcmourning, Rasputina, and the OP LaCroix clan. The only game I've won legitimately was by switching the Vikkies on turn four and bringing the Vik carrying the evidence back into my deployment zone. What I'm asking is if anyone can point me to a link that already has some comprehensive tactica or adding your own two cents. I picked up Malifaux because I really suck at 40k. I don't want to suck at Malifaux too!!! Help! Here's what I have. Most games I've played have been in the 30ss range. Vikkies Ronin x3 Student of conflict Convict Gunslinger Masaki Taelor Hans Thanks!
  6. What are you basing your models with? I see a lot of metal showing through and that's not good. To get an ultra smooth finish you need many layers of diluted paint, or a really smooth foundation of your base color. The easiest method involves photoshop, but that's cheating.
  7. Nice, clean lines. Good job on the freehand stockings as well. Tell me, where'd you get that base or bases? Cheers!
  8. I've been painting a little under two years and with this process I've achieved these results. I don't consider myself a great painter, I just repeat the steps. Good luck!
  9. Here's what I would do: Mix two parts yellow to one part dark orange or red for your base. Highlight that with straight yellow. Wash with a dark brown. Highlight again with straight yellow. Then if you want to get serious, mix two parts yellow and one part white for fine detail, and then finally pick out extreme details with a dab of yellow and straight white. (DO NOT DRY BRUSH) Then apply that same principle to the rest of the model using a three tone color scheme. Base/highlight/wash/highlight/detail Also, If I were to paint something yellow or orange, I would first base coat the area white as the pigments for those particular colors aren't very strong. Basing white saves you the trouble of doing multiple coats.
  10. So far so good. Your crew will look very uniform on the table. I'm kind of doing the same thing with my outcasts. They all have a little splash of blue somewhere. What color blue is that by the way?
  11. Very good wings! Now give that billowing cloak the same attention.
  12. Oh! Lol. Here's what I do. I run the brush across the fleshy area between my thumb and forefinger a few times. It is the best way I've found, in my experience, to achieve the right level of dry paint. It's not for those who like clean hands though. I would also strongly urge, that unless you are batch painting an army, never dry brush one off figures. In a lot of cases a wash would serve better to bring out the details and depth, plus give you a map of where to apply your highlights later. Seriously, washes changed the way I paint and made me much happier with the end result. Cheers!
  13. I'm looking at the pictures on your blog. Do you have a cat? I like the color scheme. I haven't seen Colette in yellow and I'm even thinking of adding that to my pallet once I get my box of showgirls. Yellow, however, is one of the hardest colors to work with outside of white. My advice is this: Thin your paints more. Use more water than you think is necessary. You want it about the consistency of milk, not house paint. Find a clean, dust free work space. Start with darker colors so you can highlight later. Be liberal with washes. Other than that, your scheme is sound and your lines fairly clean. Keep up the good work!
  14. Wow. You must be really gentle with your models. I freak out if any metal gets exposed due to handling. (mostly because I won't want to repaint it)
  15. Thanks for all of the advice on the spray. I will put it to good use. Here's a Taelor I've been working on, which I have yet to seal. The base is unfinished as well, obviously.
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