Sholto

That's not tea, it's liquid inspiration Very happy. I am still working on it, and would do it again if I had to. I have done a few pieces that I will need to stick up pics of, including a double height piece with a brazier on top. The nine cork tiles store very easily, obviously, and the remaining pieces are very light and can be stored in a box. This route is perfect if you are on a tight budget, I reckon. You will need to buy the Himmelveil Streets PDFs ($11), some A4 label paper (£2.50 for 50) and some black foamcore (A1 sheets for £4). You also need access to a good colour printer, as well as the usual tools for cutting the foamcore. You can use el cheapo knives, but a good cork-backed metal ruler and self-healing cutting mat are indispensible. Cheap PVA is all the glue you need, and lastly some cheap black markers for inking the cut edges. The Terraclips sets look to be great value for money, but I reckon they will work alongside this, since they are both on a 3" or 6" grid system. Don't know about height, though - I guess we'll see. It would make sense for WWG to make them the same height as all the other WWG sets, so I hope they will be compatible in all dimensions. The tiles are not coated, and I doubt I will bother. As you say, you can just reprint it and cover it up if need be. I solved the ramp problem, by the way. Simple and effective. Pics to follow.

Touching on religion in Malifaux is something my story "The Chair" will do, but only briefly. Quite what a minister or priest would make of Malifaux is intruiging to me, which is why I stuck one in the start of that story. I am sure there are churches in Malifaux, but what would they look like? Large stone churches or cathedrals take a long time to build, and I'm not sure people have been in Malifaux long enough to have done that. They could have taken existing buildings and consecrated them, so they would be an odd mix of styles, with some religious elements overlaid on a different architecture.

Doh! And Maelstrom are usually very good. I have had no complaints, and they credited the money I spent on preordering the Terraclips right away.

Thanks, guys :)Felt is an interesting idea. Worth a look, ta. Made a two storey tower last night, with a little mini-tower with a brazier on top (so, 3 1/2 storeys!). It looks pretty cool, and has a removable roof. I also made some stairs, and added some Victorian posters I printed onto card.

@Magno - I mentioned this on my blog, and the answer was, "not well"! I solved it with horizontal strips of clear, matt adhesive tape. The models hold on them fine, and you cannot see them unless you get very close. The strips of tape, that is, not the models

I got my Colette boxset on Saturday, but Maelstrom haven't sent my Coryphee set yet. Gives me more time to work out how to pin/ magnetise them. Read the whole book yet?

Very good tutorial, thanks. As a means of making terrain it appeals enormously to me, but the costs of entry (not just the price of the molds but also the time needed to cast 20x of the same mold) put me off. For now.

It was counter-intuitive to me, as coming from 40k I assumed that to be in melee one model or the other had to actually have struck some blows. It took me a while to realise that all you need to be in melee is to be within someone's melee range. Due to that, there is no distinction for present purposes between (i) flying past a model and out of its melee range and (ii) fighting a model and then trying to fly out of its melee range. Same thing both times.

Wow - just wow. Puts my efforts in the shade, but in a good way, because it makes me want to do something like this one day How did you do the snow? PVA and bicarbonate of soda? Looks terrific.

I have been working on this - on and off - and here is what it looks like at present:- The ramps, raised street sections and bridges are all modular, made of foamcore covered with the WorldWorksTerrain PDFs (Himmelveil range) and I am using pairs of 6mmx2mm magnets buried in the foamcore to snap them together. This hold the pieces tightly, and stops them moving around on the table. The other terrain is stuff I already had lying around - some foamcore buildings with more PDF texture files on them, and some Hirst Arts pieces. And a spooky skeleton tied to a stake. Oooooh!

It would depend when the paralyzed effect was applied. If it was applied along with the damage that the attack did, then it would apply before the model dies, and so when the model does die from the damage inflicted it is already paralyzed and so cannot take any actions, making Slow To Die useless. If paralyzed applies after the damage is inflicted, then the answer might be different, but I suspect in most cases paralyzed will take effect before the model dies and so affect Slow To Die.

Thanks all - I tried to make it moderately entertaining

I thought I would stick up some thoughts on Book 2, now it has been made available at Gencon, and you can find them here - http://incunabulum.co.uk/blog/2010/08/16/malifaux-rising-powers-%e2%80%93-first-impressions/ No spoilers, and no NDA breaching going on! Since I have some material in the Book I cannot really do a review as such, so I thought it might be helpful if I gave people unfamiliar with it a general overview. Most of it won't be news to forum-goers, though.

This just gets better and better! That face is awesome

My plans for the terrain set include making raised street sections, bridges, ramps and walkways. I want them to be modular (like the ground tiles), so they have to be on the same 12″/6″ proportions as those ground tiles. This sketch (what do you mean, I have to explain it? Isn’t it obvious from the skillful draftsmanship?) shows what I have in mind. The two raised corner sections will be 12″x12″, with two 6″ ramps leading off. These can be replaced by stairs as needed. And if I build them. Leading off into the city, will be two 12″ long straight sections, with railings, and a single 6″ long bridge section. Two more 6″ ramps complete the set. After that, add buildings and other terrain pieces, and it should be a pretty good table to play on. After making the sketch above, I looked at the 12″ straight sections and decided they blocked line of sight a little too much, even for me. So, I will add a bridge to one of them. (A quick recap of The Method: print the PDF files on plain white A4 label paper; cut out the required images, leaving all the fiddly tabs and connector pieces; peel label paper off and stick down to 5mm foamcore; cut out and assemble.) Building a 12″ Straight My first effort did not impress or, for that matter, succeed. I drew up my plans to print out wall, railing and ground sections on the label paper I am using, with the intention that the straight section be 12″ long x 6″ wide x 2″ high. Unfortunately, I had not taken into account the fact that in the Terrainlinx range from WorldWorksGames, the wall sections are only 6″ wide once you add the supporting pillars at either end. The actual “wall” part of the wall is only 5.25″ long. I built it anyway, just to get a feel for it, but with the dimensions not matching the 6″ x 6″ grid of the ground tiles, it was never going to work. That said, it taught me a few things about the process:- Think about the directions of the patterns on the plain ground tiles, so that if you have to cut them, you cut them in such a way that the patterns still line up. On the railings, the inner and outer railings are different, both in appearance and size. They are not interchangeable. If you have a wall section that is made up of two wall pieces and two railing pieces, stick all four pieces down to the foamcore and cut them out as one piece. Incredibly, I forgot to do this, and cut each individual piece out! Make sure and black-edge your pieces (run a Sharpy round the cut edge of the paper) before sticking them down. White edges stick out and ruin the look much more than you might think. Trust me on this one. So, I did some maths (I know!), and worked out I needed to scale the wall sections and the bridge sections by 114% when I printed them. So I did. That makes the walls 2.25″ tall, but all you need to do is cut off the excess when trimming the piece out of the label paper. You won’t notice the missing .25″. Then I sat down and made a detailed sketch of the piece, to work out the exact dimensions of each part so that they would all fit together with an overall dimension of 12″ x 6″. This means thinking about how the walls and floor will join where there is no railing, and how the walls will join with one another at the corners. This was the result after all the cutting:- And the side with the printed labels on. There is no terrain job that should not be tackled with tea. This job was a two-cup problem. If you want to know what a rabbet/ rebate is (although if you watch the New Yankee Workshop, you’ll know this already) go here (Wikipedia). Each one is exactly the width of the foamcore piece it attaches to (5mm) and you just carefully cut through the card and the foam, leaving the other card side untouched. It is actually easier than it sounds. After that I tried a dry fit, and then assembled it with PVA glue:- And this is what it looks like on the ground tiles I made earlier:-

I will bring it along on Tuesday, and you can see what you think. I might have some of the raised sections done by then, as well.

Thanks for all the comments @dgraz - probably, but black is all I had, and I was trying to keep this cheap! As for the edges of the cork tiles, I wound up painting those black with some acrylic paint and a sponge. In retrospect, spraypainting the cork tiles black before I had started would have been the best way to proceed. @Warboss Walton - I am not sure. I need to spend some time looking at the WWG games PDFs and see what I can make with them. Some 12" square sections, some thinner ones, some bridges, and ramps should do. We'll see I picked up some 2" thick pink foam today, and I will see if I can use that for anything. @Doctor Warlock - cheers! I take your point about the durability of card, although it if is anything like the Space Hulk set it should be good for a long while. @Svenn & DW - my models are always being pulled off buildings by my mate Robert's Belles (that sounds wrong...) Generally speaking, so long as all your buildings are to the same scale they will look fine. It is once you start mixing scales that it all goes out the window. I put in my preorder for Street of Malifaux today. If it is as good as I hope, I will be getting the other two sets the day after it arrives

Yup - just as I was working on these, WorldWorksGames and Wyrd had to go and announce Terraclips Anyway, I decided to finish the terrain tiles, and this is what I ended up with:- And here it is with some buildings and minis (40k) for scale:- The tile set comprises 9 12" square cork tiles, allowing for a 3'x3' playing surface in a variety of possible configurations. Still to come are some raised street sections, bridges and ramps, and I will make these out of foamcore. I know Terraclips is coming and is comparatively cheap, but I am a terrain junkie and cannot help myself How I Did It I downloaded the Himmelveil Streets pack from WorldWorksGames. What I was aiming for was not the TLX System at all. I was after a modular terrain tile set for games of Malifaux, played on a 3'x3' surface. Buildings and ruins I have, but I needed a detailed playing surface, and Himmelveil seemed ideal. However, the tile system is based on 6" squares, with a complicated and (to my mind) fiddly mounting and tab system. Lots of cutting out of both paper and foamcore required. Having been through that before with apparently simple paper models (from WWG and Daves Games), I was not keen on trying it with 6" square sections with lots of cuts per side (total sides for a 3"x3" table made of these? 144, all with multiple cuts to be made and then scored. No thanks). I decided to see if I could take the best bits of Himmelveil and make them into what I needed. What if I made 12" tiles and glued the 6" square sections to them, 4 to a tile? I could get around the need for tabs and mounting systems this way. At first I considered foam core for the tiles, but due to the sizes foam core is available in, cutting 12" tiles results in a huge amount of waste. The A-standard of paper sizes are just the wrong dimensions. The A1 and A2 sizes are 594mm on a side, which is only a few mm too short to let me cut another tile out. I would need double the amount of foamcore. Foamcore is also available in 30"x40" sizes, which is great, but I could not find them in singles, only in expensive packs of 5 or more. I wound up going with cork tiles. Specifically, I bought 9 12"x12" cork flooring tiles from Wickes Building Supplies in the UK (Sealed Cork Flooring Tiles Product SKU: 620950) for just over £7. They are thin but strong and weighty and – this is vital – they lie flat all by themselves. I don’t want to glue the WWG printed sections to the cork. Glue is messy, time consuming and might result in warping. So I bought 50 sheets of white A4 label paper, with a single label on each sheet. Printing the WWG tiles onto this, the bit I want (the 6" square bit with all the detail on it, not the faffy mounting bits around the side) fits well within the label itself. Here it is at the assembly stage:- Top left: the four 6" square tiles cut out from the label paper. Top right: uncut tiles on the label paper. Bottom left: a single 12" cork tile. I have already gone around the outside with the black marker. Bottom right: my layout plan and printing list. I made up a layout plan (you can see it in the bottom right of the picture – click to enlarge), noted how many of each type of floor tile I would need (36 in all for a 3′x3′ table) and printed them off. Then I cut the first four out and blacklined the edges, to get rid of the white cut edge. I also ran a black marker around the outside edge of the cork tile and in a cross pattern in the middle, where the four 6″ tiles would meet – this would hide any gaps. Then I just peeled the backing off the four WWG tiles and stuck them down. A close up of a single tile:- All comments and suggestions welcome

Absolutely. Superglue is strong but brittle, and joints can snap easily, especially where you have heavy metal pieces acting as levers. I have never had a pinned joint fail, and I've done some odd things to test the limits of the technique(such as posing a Penitent Engine to stand on one foot). I wouldn't pin all the joins on all metal models, but I do ask myself, "If I drop it, will it break?" If yes, then pin

Absolutely. Superglue is strong but brittle, and joints can snap easily, especially where you have heavy metal pieces acting as levers. I have never had a pinned joint fail, and I've done some odd things to test the limits of the technique(such as posing a Penitent Engine to stand on one foot). I wouldn't pin all the joins on all metal models, but I do ask myself, "If I drop it, will it break?" If yes, then pin

Looking great so far. I love the idea for the claws and matted fur, and the eye on a spring should look genius.

I love the shading on them, and the bases are great Sholto

It is indeed, although I think Redstripe mentioned that earlier (I may be wrong). The point being made was that "west of New York" covers a lot of territory. Sholto

He's not laughing his arse off, he's thinking, "Dammit! Now I need to set it somewhere none of them have thought of. Hmm, where's Brigadoon exactly?"

There is more than one breach now, which helps explain why there are so many different nationalities in Malifaux and its surroundings, but like most others I had assumed that the Great Breach and its successor were in the western continental US. Happy to learn otherwise, but there isn't much to go on, and what there is ("New Amsterdam" and "back east") don't pin it down much. Maybe Book 2 will clarify matters. The Earth is clearly different to our own, and reminded me strongly of the Earth in "Jonathan Strange and Mr Norrell". In that book, inconveniently placed towns and villages were simply moved out the way (some very far out of the way - Belgium to the US was the further, I think), so that might help explain why the Breach appeared in a city that does not exist in our world.