Omenbringer

Nice solution, now to get them painted.

Maybe but constructs do not wear dresses...

They are powered by piglets though.

I'd be interested as well but I'm over in Australia...

I wonder if there is going to be a wyrd counter set coming?

Lucky for you Avatar Form is in your neck o da woods.

Taking Somer with 8 SS is going to put a serious damper on a lot of his early game startegies.

Thats is what Smurfette looks like in my dreams...

You might want to see somebody about that.

To the OP: Lilith is awesome in blue (though as was said you could thin your paints a bit).

Who knew Rasputina was a water bender. Great execution.

Looks unbalanced, however, a good paintscheme can do wonders.

I agree the model looks a bit unbalanced. The razorspines head (neck and hood) is definately the culprit. I wonder if a warpigs body would have worked a bit better for this (due to the additional bulk). Great idea for the model though.

+1 to the above. Everyone here has quite covered the solutions and theory. I used to prime only in black for the GrimDark minis I used to collect and game with. Now, however, Malifaux minis have such great detail and make me want to paint them bright colours. Since I use acryllics, they have a small degree of translucency and your primer will show through in the final results (when painting many thin layers for smooth blends), hence my change to white primer. I had tried a tan (for hordes) and grey (for WM) however, for my Malifaux white is the winner.

Basically prime to the model and desired color palette. Bright colors are usually best shown when over a white undercoat, and dark colors are usually best shown over a black undercoat.

As an example of this for my Bayou Gremlin crew I painted over black primer (to emphasize the dirty grimy look of the bayou), for my sons Rasputina crew I primed white (because over all he wanted the models to look cold and pale), and for my daughters Lady Justice crew I primed some white and some black (to better show the palettes she selected).

Only criticism for the new batch of models is the doves. The wire really stands out, would recommend next time either buying some GW flying bases or using a thin clear plastic rod (you can usually find them at model train stores). Other then that you have done a good job representing the girls.

I would have to agree you did a great job on Bette.

I have not used the entire P3 range, but would be curious as to why they did not perform well for you.

They were to much work to keep the pigment suspended in the medium (I tend to paint in spurts with rather long hiatus's). I always had to shake them more then other paints (even with the massager I use for this purpose and the plastic beads I use as agitators in each pot). Also for me they required a lot more flow improver and matte/gloss medium then my other paints to keep wet/fluid. Once again this is probably more a problem caused by the long periods between uses.

Main problem with GW paints is that they cost twice as much as superior paints. Yes, the metallics perform well, but the pigments are available in other ranges for half the price. As listed before, I use select paints/washes/metallics but not the remainder of the range.

For me GW has been easier to find in the brick and mortar stores then many of the other brands mentioned and is about the same price. For the table top (read actual play not display) the quality isn't that bad either.

the Vallejo ranges are fantastic in terms of performance and value for $. Im curious to know what you mean by "dried funny"...

Hard to explain but the closeest thing that describes it is "skin drying" where it will look dry but is actually still wet (not fully bonded to the underlayers). I dont paint with a hairdryer near by (like some do) so have noticed that if I am in the zone and moving fast on a model (usually when working on the small final details) that I can occasionally pull the top skin of the drying paint off (leaving pockmarks and streaks). I have noticed this mostly in their metals. For me they are more work then they are worth (and in my experience the most difficult paints to get at the smaller brick and mortar stores I frequent and easily as expensive as the competition).

Keep in mind that I do not consider myself a pro or competition painter, I paint for the table top. I dont like to play bare metal or unfinished models so being able to get things finished quickly (and yet still presentable) is more important to me then having the jaw dropping paint jobs that sit in a glass case for display only. With this in mind I would agree that the Reaper Master Series paints are the best of all worlds (they will grow with your experience level better then any other brand). I am slowly transitioning to RMS as I run out of GW.

I don't ever use black primer,I think its too thick.Especially on the fine detailed Wyrd stuff.I use primers right off the Home Depot shelves.

Try Duplicolor sandable primer or Tamiya Primer (usually much harder to find). These go on really thin. I spray very heavy and in two or three coats and have not managed to obscure any fine details in the wyrd minis (though my models are for the table and not comps).

I would suggest Duplicolor Gray Hot Rod Sandable Primer. I put it on par with the GW spraypaints only half the cost. You can pick it up at any Autozone for $5.

Have to add that Duplicolor is far superior to any of the GW spray paints. Aside from the lower cost, the tooth is much much finer (providing smoother finishes), it sprays thinner (so it wont obscure detail even if you are abit over zealous in application) and it is also a true primer so will provide a better bond to the model.

Also for the OP a light primer will definately make the colors brighter, however, I would say that for Malifaux you would probably be better served with the normal black primer you use then base coating with a darker shade of your desired end color (or GW foundation paint for the base coat).

Never really liked the P3's.

I mainly use GW's line (especially their metals). I have never really had a problem with them, especially after I started adding flow improver and matte and gloss mediums to the paints. Their new washes and foundations are fantastic for us mortal painters that want better results. Also they are so readily available.

I love the Reaper Master Series, they are awesome. And the triads really take the guess work of painting (whether for table top quality or painting contest entry). The dropper bottles are great at both protecting the paint while its stored and reducing wasted paint.

I have toyed with VMC and VGC and wasn't super impressed by them. To me they dried funny and are annoyingly difficult to find at the LGS. I much prefer the RMS for the price.

loving the additional details like the boa and flipped over stool.

A flying stand would have been nice.

Very good job. Especially love the blue girl, her dress looks really feathery.

...when you need 2-4 to play a viable game and apart from paintscheme and basing, there is no other definable way to make them different.

Creative modifications can be used to make them different. Here is an example of one I did

I have another one that is waiting on paint, I'll post that one once it's done.

Here is a pretty good link for snowy base methods (with comparisons).

If you're going to be a playtester, you probably shouldn't let your feelings get hurt so easily.

Believe me my skin is thick and my feelings are definately not hurt, meerly pointing out that it is always easy to criticize when looking from the outside and after the fact.

Dude, if you failed at something or failed to notice something in testing, you screwed the game for everyone and there are continuous errata to look forward to due to this.

My comments still stand.

Like I said you should be careful with your statements, people can tell a lot about you by what you have posted. How do you know these things weren't brought up or discussed (argued)?

My recomendation is to join up for the next playtest so you can lend your opinions to the mix and help shape the game. There should be an announcement for it coming up soon.

Save all of your masks for squeel and aim high when you do get engaged.

Why save them, just use "Like herding squirrels" it gives them auto squeel. It is a major part of the Ophelia, bait and switch strategy.

Or is this a failure of the beta testers?

You should be a bit more careful (and considerate) with criticisms against volunteer playtesters, a lot of us put a substantial amount of effort and time into the development and playtesting of the Rising Powers releases.

The Leveticus boxed set only requires maybe 1-2 additions, otherwise it is the perfect starter box from all that exist (yet).

Would say that (though it may be a cheap starter set) Levi has a very high learning curve for a new player and doesn't really make a good intro to the game.

And now back to your regularly scheduled programing.

If you want to see her competitve then run her with nothing but Bayou Gremlins, and concentrate the gun line on one enemy model at a time. She is very good like this.

There is something so disturbing about Sybelle in Pink. Good job though.