eHobo

59 minutes ago, Chou said:

Unbelievable! Thank you for the pictures! Amazing job, it has to look amazing on the table! maybe adding some weight to the bottom of the base (I read that you needed to glue it for the picture!), but in any case, truly amazing!

Thanks a lot
It's really not practical to using in a game, it's stupidly big. I designed and 3d printed a plinth for it, and it's still tipping over. I'll fill it with washers and let it stand around as a display model instead.

4 hours ago, Chou said:

So beautiful!!  Do you have some pictures of the process? 

I do, actually! They're not the easiest to see, as the camera likes to focus on all the crap I have on my table, but you can see the steps I take.

I built it when the Razorspine Rattlers box came out a while ago. I turned the tree around around before painting.

Blocked in, in acrylics, simple enough.

Terror Tot, tree, and the snake's mouth is pretty much done. Almost everything after blocking in, is in oils, so things are very wet. The scars on the Tot are acrylic gouache.

Everything done except for final shadows and highlights that come after i apply all the foliage. Still all in oils, so it sat around like this for a week.

I painted this happy snake for the contest. It's technically legal in-game as it's on a 40mm base, but I had to glue it down to keep it from tipping over.

We don't have to send an image of the model before we begin working on it anymore? What about the rul about previous winners having to paint for specific category?

Riiiiight, I haven't been painting a lot of Malifaux, and I've forgotten to post what I actually did paint.

But here's Lohith.

I'm from Denmark too, and, yeah, importing anything is just terrible. I don't mind the VAT or the shipping cost, but I absolutely hate the fee since that's what makes it completely ridiculous.

The best solution (for EU customers) would be if Wyrd signed up for the IOSS system, so they could charge the VAT at purchase. I have no idea what kind of setup that would require, but it'd most likely be a redesign of the web store.

I'm shamefully mostly painting Warhammer stuff right now, but I really wanted to paint Thirty-Three.

Harness Ley Line, how does it work? I've seen a few suggestions, ranging from "you get 2 tomes" to "You get +2 to your total, and a tome."

6 hours ago, Nudelpullover said:

A great looking model  in a category with alot and also stiff competition.

Given the topic of lighting effects you didnt pick the easiest model to choose.

Those fiery wings would bathe her in light, leaving harsh shadows in certain areas. Alot of "light-value" contrast.

Positioning of the light looks great and the wings look proper fiery.

I also really like the broken, glowing ground rising with her, nice base. Keep at it 😜

The August contest has usually been the Hot Hot Hot one, where the theme is fire, so I had her ready to go for that. I just painted her anyway, because I'm not very competitive

The only part of her that isn't directly hit by light, is her face, neck, top of the torso, and the front of her hair, and I actually made those areas dark at first. It just looked weird because everything else is bright, so I dropped that idea.

Returning to my original crew, I painted Kaeris Reborn for the painting contest. I got 0 votes again, so still plenty of room for improvement!

I keep forgetting to post what I paint in here. Fitzsimmons and 2 of the Miners. I remembered how boring I find it to paint ordinary people, so I still need the last miner, the 3 steamfitter, and a new Toni and Mouse.

Howard Langston joins the fray. He took a million years, because this is the first time I did a lot of NMM on a model.

And The Captain. This guy was a challenge! All the little details are pretty hard to blend with oils, but I should probably just accept that it'll look fine with a simple one-stroke blend. I'm also still fighting my yellow, because I don't paint a lot straight yellow on my minis. It is incredibly opaque, while a lot of browns are at least semi-transparent so I need a different workflow. I think that I'll paint the versatile Arcanist robots in a yellow scheme to get some practice.
Finally, I tried starting the NMM from black. Didn't work out for me, the black is too powerful and makes it take way more effort than just starting from clean oil.

Holy crap, I painted something! Amina Naidu and the two Gunsmiths for my upcoming escalation league. Oils on top of acrylics, I feel like I'm getting better with the oils. Those plants on the bases are also new to me! I like them, they let me make weirder bases with little effort.

The contest is over so I can show off what I painted. I don't care enough about contests to stop messing around with whatever I'm doing, so all of these are done with oils. I'm still not great with the oils, but I'm getting better. I got a combined 0 votes for these three, so there's certainly room for improvement

Hamelin. I got a comment that the eyes should be brighter, and I tend to agree on the spell thingy. The black sunken eyes on Hamelin is on purpose.

The Blood Hunter is annoyingly out of focus. I borrowed this guy from a friend of mine because "I didn't have any mosters at all". Then I looked in my drawers and had all of the Rasputina's, Sandeep's, Hamelin's, and Jedza's figures. I need to organize my crap.

Mouse on fire, to go with my Toni Firesides. Yellow oil colors are super opaque, so the yellow took over a bit. Everything is highlighted and shades as usual, but it's stupidly subtle because of the gimmick.
I used some pure linseed oil to create the initial oil film on this guy, because I didn't want the base coat to be tinted by paint. It worked very well, I can recommend doing that.

I also chucked them in the oven to speed up the drying. Preheat to 50C, turn off the oven, then bake your minis for 20 minutes to speed up the drying time and matten the oils. This is based on something Marco Frisoni said, so it's not just a crazy idea I had.

I completely forgot to upload Mouse. It's nice for me to see that I'm already doing better with the oil paints, since I don't think this guy is very good now. Doesn't matter though it's all about learning something new.

I also completely missed that he's wearing spectacles, so I had to add those in with acrylics. I thought he just had a weird face until I looked at his artwork.

More oil painting, mostly to show the process.
I'm re-priming all my M&SU minis, because a zenithal priming is very useful. A lot of oils are transparent in a not-obvious way when coming from acrylics, and that transparency can be put to very good use. The transparency also means that it can be very useful to put down a basecoat of acrylic paint, for example under the red, to avoid chalky white highlights and to make the colors more unified.
Both the red I use, and the brown for the shadows, is transparent to some degree, so push it around too much and you suddenly have a white spot.

My goal here is to use only oils (except for priming and the eyes), to try and really figure them out and get the technique down, so I'm doing it the hard way.

Step 1, covered in a thick oil wash. Just beautiful.

Step 2: pretty much everything cleaned off again. There is a super thin layer of oil all over the mini, which makes blending easy. The deepest recesses are also full of paint.

Step 3: put some paint on, blend it. Actually incredible simple, in theory. It took me about 2 hours to get here from step two. Now it needs to dry for a few days, before I can give it a few pin washes, do the eyes, and base it.

8 hours ago, Nikodemus said:

I'm getting into oils myself soon. Feel free to write more about using oils. Triumphs, tribulations and all. I'd like to hear how it'll work out for you.

Toni's looking good.

Sure thing! I'll write something more when I've painted a couple of figures, but I'm following Marco Frisoni's way of doing things. You basically cover everything with a thick wash of oil paint, then remove most of it again, so you have a super thin layer of paint everywhere.

Then you wetblend everything, which works really well with oils.

I painted Toni from a layer of completely white primer, but I think it be much easier to start from a zenithal priming. That'll get the deep shadows using less paint, which'll cut days off the drying time, while still allowing for the very high, almost white, highlights.

I'm doing something! It's time to actually paint the actual Union guys, so they can beat the crap out of whatever is in their way.
I always do a gimmick, and this time is no exception, but it's more of a technique than a gimmick. I'm practicing using oil paints for something besides washes, so the M&SU will be painted using nothing but oils. Also, all metal will be NMM.

Toni is the first model that I've painted this way, and it went okay! She might need a little violet in the shadows of her face, but otherwise, she's done.

Right, I painted the Alt Firestarter for the painting contest. I went a bit too light on the OSL for this, so it's not super great, but at least it's done so I have a super cool/impractical Firestarter to put on the table

Paul Crockett and The Scorpius finished the keyword for now. There's only the Razorspine Rattlers left, and I'll be painting them when they show up at my FLGS.
The Scorpius will get get a coat of gloss varnish on the syringes after I give it the usual protective coating.

I like the glow, it separates the base from the mini. Did you use dry pigments for it?