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Vermicious Knid

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Posts posted by Vermicious Knid

  1. I loath the use of magnets with miniatures, and because of this I am going to glue my Steam Arachnids to their bases. I am trying to figure out the best ratio of individual spiders to swarms

    I have 15 Arachnid models. How many swarms and how many single spiders should I make?

  2. What I will say is that it is complete rubbish when people start saying that they won't even think about getting a model based on whether it is plastic or metal, or start talking about nonsense like how that try not to game with metal models, or that all of the plastics are better than the metals (or the other way around)- that is just ridiculous.

    Well that was a great dissertation on the bonuses and negatives of the different mediums. Unfortunately this particular statement that I quoted happens to be wrong. Or at least mostly so.

    With Malifaux, most players have a pretty mercenary attitude when it comes to what models they game with and enjoy. Players will collect models that they are either more comfortable working with (be that metal or plastic), or they will collect the models that they think look the best.

    In the case of Malifaux, there are clear differences in both the technical quality and artistic style between the two materials. The metal models simply look different. There is a difference in quality, as the original metal Wyrd models are sculpted in a slightly more amateurish fashion. There is a difference in looks, as the plastic models have a far more consistent artistic style. This is all my opinion of course, but I feel pretty confident and strongly about my assertions.

    So I'll say this definitively - I will ALWAYS collect the plastic models, and will avoid purchasing any Wyrd metal models unless the reasons are truly compelling. 100 percent of Wyrd's plastic resculpted model have been at least a minor (and plenty of times, major) improvement in looks upon the original metals (IMO) and I see no evidence that this trend will be altered in the future. And so for that reason, I will always go for the plastic versions and I don't particularly regard my reasons as being "rubbish"

  3. I don't use a rotary hole punch for rivets - they are far too large. The hole punch I got was more traditional looking - it just punches a really tiny hole. Found it in the scrapbooking aisles.

    To be honest, I don't know how thin of card I use. It's not the thinnest available - more like the 2nd or 3rd thinnest

  4. I hear a lot of "i'm waiting til plastics" that may or may not be warranted... I dunno guys, do you really think a 30+ piece peacekeeper is going to be that much better than the current metal one? (or look that much better)

    Before I write on what I quoted you on, I would first like to say that I find the concept of taking substandard models on trips, just because you are afraid of your "good" ones get damaged is not really a valid concern, unless we are talking truly prize winning stuff here. If damage is truly a problem, then I would suggest that you might not be packing your models correctly?

    Now, as far as your quote goes. I find it strange that you used the Peacekeeper of all models to illustrate your point. To answer your questions - yes I absolutely believe that a 30+ piece plastic peacekeeper will be a better model than the metal one, and yes I believe that it will look better as well.

    --Large models are always better done in plastic, just from a weight consideration

    --Robots or anything that's composed mostly of mechanical looking parts are probably the single best types of models to be cast from plastic. The sharp edges and mechanical joints are far more effectively created with a digital CAD program and are best realized in plastic

    --The original metal Peacekeeper is probably the single worst looking construct that Wyrd has created. No offense to the original artist - the model was made in Wyrd's early days and they were basically making do with the resources they had, but the model shows it's age drastically. It's overall appearance is quite goofy looking, and the sculptor did a really poor job of hiding the bits and materials he used to create the master. When I can look at a model, and instantly know what size of brass rods he used to create the Peacekeeper's spindly arms...this is a piece that is not held to the same level of professionalism that the modern models are.

    --The new plastic constructs in the Hoffman box are massive improvements of the original metals - despite their overall "look" being basically the same. There is every reason to suspect that the Peacekeeper will be improved in the same degree.

    So anyhow like I said - I get that you weren't trying to start up a big discussion about the Peacekeeper specifically. I just think that using it as your reference here kind of undermines the point you are trying to make, since the new plastic will be such an obviously superior model that it's easily worth the wait

  5. The cork board that I always use is a "chunkier" variety. By that, I mean that they don't chop up the cork board into tiny finely-ground little bits, but instead make the board out of larger pieces. I find that this stuff is the best, since when you break it up, the larger cork chunks resemble rocks a lot more.

    You can find this particular style of cork board in craft stores (Michael's, AC Moore, Hobby Lobby, stuff like that). Usually it's a very dark color - like almost black. It's also slightly more expensive than the "basic" cork board, but it's well worth it if you are looking for good visuals

  6. And finally, the most recent new stuff - here are a couple of rusted out boiler tanks that I made from a pair of empty bottles of Advil, and also a steampunk version of the Weighted Companion Cube from Portal. The cake is a lie!!!

    m1h60v5l.jpg

    1VXgFtvl.jpg

    • Like 3
  7. So hey folks - I just made some brand new stuff I thought I might show off a bit.

    My plan was to make a simple set of themed terrain I can use at home for both Malifaux and Warmachine games. I wanted it to be at least vaguely "steampunk" (so no boring grassy hills and such) and not be that difficult ]Hey folks, I just put the finishing touches on my scrapyard water feature. It's a little hard to tell in the photo, but the pond is filled with Envirotex, and looks pretty cool (if I do say so - love Envirotex). rather than a naturally occuring pond, I wanted something to look more like a screwed up piece of industrial machinery, and this is what I came up with.

    3DlcMZgl.jpg

    bBgSHJsl.jpg

    qWsIYFOl.jpg

    • Like 3
  8. So I made this post a long time ago back in the Miniatures Showcase forum - but that was before we actually had a dedicated Terrain Showcase forum. Since this area has been created, I thought I would repost my original terrain article, as well as a few updates and new things I have made. So even if you've already seen this stuff, scroll down!

    So hey folks - I just made some brand new stuff I thought I might show off a bit.

    My plan was to make a simple set of themed terrain I can use at home for both Malifaux and Warmachine games. I wanted it to be at least vaguely "steampunk" (so no boring grassy hills and such) and not be that difficult to create. Also I plan on getting one of those new Frontline Gaming battle mats - specifically the 4' square "Barren Wasteland" mat - and I wanted something that would blend in with those pretty nicely. Finally I wanted something that matched the customized basing scheme I used for my "steampunk" armies (basically all my warmachine and malifaux figs). And thus the scrapyard was born!

    Below are a couple of hills and that I did. The hills were constructed using a combination of PP's "junk pile" hills, which you can find on the main PP website, and also I used some cork board hills as a starter as well. There is a forum poster on the PP site named Poppabear, and I have to say that his quick-and-easy cork hills were an inspiration. The idea allowed me to jump ahead several steps, and letting me get cool looking rocky hills with a minimal of modeling. I did a few extra steps by mounting them on some matte board to give it some extra ruggedness, and hid the join with a mix of patching plaster and gravel around the bottom of the base.

    As a final trick, I actually used the "rough cut" cork board, instead of the basic board. This stuff is a little more expensive, and the cork bark is cut into larger pieces. I personally find the larger chunks mimic the look of rock a whole lot better than basic cork board, and I recommend it to anybody who wants to use cork with terrain projects or basing their miniatures.NrWvwkE.jpgsur4AYp.jpg

    I also did up 4 walls in the same scheme. Basically used the same paints and modeling materials so that they would blend in with the hills that I already constructed. My goal was to make some walls that weren't really created to actually BE walls - they are just random collections of junk that will form a wall-like structure for use in game. I am very happy with the result!50IQWgA.jpg

    So that's the start of my home-gaming Junkyard terrain! I am working on some more pieces right now, including some fairly ramshackle buildings, and a couple of "forests", which will actually be just collections of scrap on a template that will mimic the rules of a forest (that sort of thing is actually allowed in the rulebook even - look it up! ). Also picked up some Envirotex to create a water feature of some kind too. Stay tuned!

    • Like 1
  9. Yeah that's not too shabby really. Just cut off the loudspeaker (leaving the backpack cause it's cool!) and add a gatling gun, and he should work great. I was kinda hoping for something that was out already, but can't have everything I suppose

    He's an "ogre zombie" apparently. Do we know how big he is?

  10. So I thought I would convert a proxy model to use as Ryle until his real plastic comes out at some point. Just as an aside, I get that this would not be a tournament legal option -I just thought it would be a fun project for now.

    I have the gatling gun and steam fist all lined up for converting - basically I just need a burly, muscular looking undead model to use as a base. My initial thought was the Brute Thrall from Privateer Press, but he's a tad TOO huge. Can anyone think of an alternative?

  11. As a side note, it can sometimes be fun to take a model that is non-theme, and do some sort of wacky paint job or conversion to make them seem more thematic.

    As an example, I am currently working on a Teddy to use with my future Collodi crew (whenever the plastics are released). I am actually sculpting it from scratch so that rather than a giant teddy bear, my Teddy is actually an oversized demonic-looking Nutcracker. Not really expecting to use him in tournaments (thanks to the somewhat draconian conversion mentality that's invading tournaments these days) but it's definitely a fun project! It's cool to have an oversized evil puppet to hang out with the rest of Collodi's smaller puppets ;)

    Converting stuff to fit a theme is a fun little artistic touch you can add to this game

    • Like 3
  12. The narrative focus of Malifaux is one of the things that drew me towards it; I find that I am writing stories in my head as I play the game. I tend to always play to theme because of that, even if the theme is fairly broad. There's no reason a convict gunslinger can't be desperate enough to throw in his lot with Hamelin, even if he doesn't, strictly speaking, fit the theme.

    Agree with this quite a lot. The storylines of Malifaux are pretty broad, and I find it fun to imagine different scenarios where unusual characters can find their way into different Masters' crews. For example, if I use Hans in my Lucious crew at some point, I sometimes find it fun to imagine a scene where Hans meets up with one of Lucious' spies/functionaries in a back alley somewhere and secures his job. Stuff like that.

    I do also agree with your other point too about how certain non-thematic models seem to become crutches for people (like Graves, as you mentioned)

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