tollboothmusic

I received DCR yesterday and first off, it has to be one of my favourite and most pleasantly surprising boardgame purchases of the last couple of years (and sadly, I buy quite a few!), the production and artwork are just beautiful. The circular board is just fantastic.

And so when I sit here and ask if there's any chance there might be a range of minis to follow (both human, spirit and winds) then it's not from a standpoint of being at all disappointed with the standees that are supplied as they are perfectly good as they are.

However, y'know - you're Wyrd and I play 'faux - I'm a slut for a good mini and the artwork for the central characters in DCR is just so in keeping with the v2 artwork for 'faux that it feels like something might be brewing?

I'm wracking my noodles trying to figure if there any proxies that might fit in from the existing 'faux range and so far, the Monks of Low River and maybe even Ronin at a push (Yeah - maybe not!) spring to mind.

Congrats on a great job though chaps!

Absolutely love it, though i'm a teensy bit scared of how many bits he's going to be in on the sprue, but that's never put me off before (go gremlins!)

From a pure sanity point of view, limiting yourself initially to 2 of any one puppito means that looking at 32 unpainted varmints is a little less daunting than having all 44 staring at you.

I'm 3 models off finishing the master sprue and 2x minion sprues and that feels good, even if there is that whole other grey demon staring at me outta the box. It now means that we can get on and play with a couple of quirky little painted crews.

The LoS rules are abstracted for ease of play. Sometimes this gives odd results. Just roll with it. 

Had to laugh, I came from the predominantly boardgame world to Malifaux rather than minis gaming, you want to see some of the LoS rules in those games. Makes Malifaux look deathly logical. (Descent & Zombicide  I'm looking at you!)

Great suggestions, i really liked that approach that FFG took with the 'Quick Start' rules for X-Wing and then introduced focus etc

That said, we were kindly invited by our friendly henchdude to play our first demo game at his house, and we'd both by that time managed to read up on the rulebook, confused though we may have been and so he launched us into a full scale 50SS Colette v Sonnia battle and it went ok under his guidance.

I think it would have been very different if we'd both been absolutely cold on the concepts, but what we really needed to see was the game in action Turn by Turn.

Aha - hadn't thought of masking film as I don't use an airbrush, but i'm guessing it would work just as well with a bit of drybrushing instead.....

Good suggestion, cheers Ratty

Hey everyone - some ideas/advice/inspiration please!!!!

So I made a water tower.... and it turned out OK, but what I really wanted to do was make it like the ones in many US towns and have the name of the town painted on the side. In this case, obviously, Malifaux, in the correct font of course. (I was going to do a town sign and then I thought, hey, towns often put it on their water tower, i'll make one of those instead - there's little rhyme or reason to my modelling)

So here's the model....

But what I can't work out is the best way to get the "Welcome to Malifaux" onto it in white paint or similar. I'll be honest, my free-painting sucks so doing it free-hand is probably out.

I thought maybe inkjet decal and then trim it round the planks? Some elaborate way of projecting it on then tracing round that. Or trying to produce a stencil of some sort. Trying to get it through my inkjet printer??? (Joke)

So the question is.... has anyone done anything similar, or can anyone come up with an ingenious tip for doing it?

Any ideas would be massively welcome. Thanks all!

Thanks for replies all! It's why I post my questions sometimes, cos I think that if I'm not understanding something too well, chances are someone else might not be either.

Got a very kind offer of demo game tomorrow night and so hopefully that will answer a lot of the 2536 questions I still have.

Cheers, that's kind of what I figured, otherwise i guess it would mean that you could just hold back on crew selection with the benefit of a 'soul stone pool on account' later in the game, which seemed really unlikely, but I just thought I'd check

Thanks

OK - I think I'm getting it - so my starting soulstone count comes from:

Encounter size minus total crew recruitment size (not including master) + Master's cache stated on stat card?

Eg: 35 SS encounter, crew size of 31, master's cache of 3 = initial pool of: 7?

Maximum SS pool is 7 at any one time?

Ok, here's the really stoopid question: in the above example, if my crew had only been 30, that would have meant my pool could have been 8 but I'm limited to 7.

so, if I then burn a SS on a suit modifier etc, I don't get to pull that 'extra' one in do I? Basically, my 'excess' from a smaller crew is lost as I enter T1 right?

Told you it was stupid.

Sorry, I'll get me coat.

Ugh, hate to sound all dollar/pound store about this, but we use some florists' glass bead that i guess you use in vases to hold remarkably expensive single stem flowers up with.

We got the beads from the Tesco household section thing (near the bike and camping stuff, not as far as the mouthwash section, no, you went too far along, back a bit, yeah about there) for about £1.00 for a hundred or so. Got a nice feel to them cos they're pretty heavy, but watch out for broken ones as they are pretty damn sharp!

But dang, I want to use Jelly Babies now after reading the sweet ideas.

Another Dave Graffham based project. Dave does a series of broken wall ruins, which here have been used pretty much just for the wall texture and overall shape. The rest are add-ons, including the floor, which I nicked from another of dave's models.

Ooh - i just received a sample pack of full page labels in the post from a shop on ebay - i'll keep everyone posted as to if they're any good. They weren't a bad price either.

Samael & others for scale with Dave's ruined tower

Brilliant & clear answers both - cheers. It felt like a fairly subtle difference when I was reading the rules which is why i though i'd check.  but it's one of those things that could really screw a game up if you get it wrong! 

Sorry - got back into old life scientific notation - yes, sorry positive and negative flip fate modifiers. apologies. thanks for answering the query though, sorry it seemed quite trivial!

Quick noob question again:

When resolving +ve and -ve flips, I am right in thinking that you resolve the final number of + vs - BEFORE you start acting on any effects they may have? 

ie you don't take any actions until you've worked out what the final resolution number from jokers/soulsstones/triggers etc might be

Thanks again and apologies for noobiness.

Hi Folks

Sorry, stoopid noob question coming up. We're wading thru the rules at the mo and I'm getting a bit confused about the difference between a target or friendly model being in, say, 8" range and within a8

Is this because Aura takes account of a height stat as well (like blast and pulse etc), or have i got it completely cock-eyed and that the 8 in 'a8' is not an inch measurement but a number of base radii?

You can see quite how confused I am - go easy! :-)

Cheers all. Had a minor scale disaster with a signpost that i thought i'd measured correctly......... only to put Samael next to and then thought, ah......

see? looks ok on its own

then you put the figure to scale next to it.

Anyone play a custom 54.235453mm scale version of something and want a signpost that has Malifaux points of scenic interest on it??????

Otherwise this is getting converted to a gallows!

Ah cheers Gorbad - useful to know, those are the next on my 'make&do' list

Hey all

Just thought I'd share some low and full cover wall sections that I just made for comment/general abuse!

Really simple construction if anyone's interested - ripped cork sheet / cork, balsa, coffee stirrer, paper shim & kitty litter rubble / bit of foliage.

Black poster paint primer, grey base, light grey highlight, bonewhite detail. Vermillion graffiti & miniature victorian public domain posters. Sepia wash & agrax earth shade.

Mounted on foamcore.

Total build time about 2 hrs + drying.

I'd agree with Fenton and sorry, I did forget to mention that his package prices are sometimes worse than the individual model prices (though I think that might be a WargameVault thing rather than Dave himself)

Some models seem to be on special this week until 15th - not sure why but I just bought one I forgot to get in his new year sale and it was about $2 instead of 4.

Hey there

Dave Graffham's models can be bought thru Wargame Vault for download at: http://www.wargamevault.com/browse.php?manufacturers_id=2985

Dave's website for query's etc is at: http://www.davesgames.net

Labels definitely the way to go but it was a cost thing to begin with as Dave's models were so cheap and we had no custom terrain. I need to find a good supplier in the UK online for print stuff as full page labels are fearsomely expensive at most of out local PC stores

At the moment I cut all mine by hand, which is a bit laborious but it's ok. At the moment, i print out onto fairly crappy normal inkjet paper and then glue to heavier stock card. It's much better if you print direct to card, but my printer hates me and only feeds cards about 20% of the time, so i get fed up. As far as I know, Dave doesn't supply RoboCutter files but I've also had a look at the WWG stuff and it looks beautifully made. I love the Pathfinder series.

Dave reckons his models take about 1-2hrs to make, but I'd factor in a bit longer to be honest. There can sometimes be a little mismatch in inner and outer walls but i've usually put that down to printer errors not Dave.  A bit of trimming and then edging with either black primer or even Sharpie does the trick. I then usually add in a few scaled down ripped posters (see plaza ruins above) and i've started making other little elements to go in them and they come to life a bit.  I usually mount them on one of Dave's 6x6" cobblestone kit elements as well for ease.