Jonasty

There's nothing specific in the rules as far as terrain type breakdown (i.e. partial vs full, etc). The only thing with Malifaux is you do need a nice amount of terrain. I think the ball park most people go with is 8-12 pieces for a 3'x3' board. There are certain schemes/strategies that actually require terrain amounts so this can be crucial (i.e. Neverborn-specific Reclaim Malifaux which needs a minimum of 9 pieces).

Malifaux games love terrain more so than the big army ones like GW. How you divide it out amongst the terrain types is more a preference thing than anything else.

Thanks D_B!

Thanks to everyone who made it out and played some games. It was a good turn out for what I was hoping for and it seemed everyone had a good time. I look forward to running more of these in the future!

Welcome to the game!!!

First off, if no one has already pointed you there, you should read the Pull My Finger wiki (http://pullmyfinger.wikispaces.com/) which happens to be named for a Som'er ability of all things. :Smug_Puppet2: Its got all kinds of useful info most importantly a very well written guide for each master.

The entry on Som'er is a very good read and what you learn is that Som'er has 3 main crew "focuses"; the Mosquito Swarms, the Gremlin Gunline, or the Pig Boomerang. Each play style with him is lots of fun (I run him myself) but each does offer a different focus on his large choice of models. Give it a read and you'll quickly know what you want to focus on.

1 week till the tourney, bumping the thread for folks.

Any cracks I've tried to cover with the liquid greenstuff have been too big to see any effect, it just pours in and does nothing. So far I've not found it to be any real use over the normal GS.

Viruk's thought about smoothing a surface would probably be its best use. Similarly it might work for any kind of skin effect, maybe covering a section of model with a layer of it and then scraping/brushing some texture on to it to make scars or boils or something. But for the "typical" use of GS, i.e. gap filling or sculpting, it's pretty much worthless.

This isn't so much a rules question so much as it is looking for possible suggestions on an issue that came up with the new multiplayer rules.

Played a three player game this past weekend and we had Shared Claim Jump as the strategy. When it came to deployment zones and the claim markers, we ran into an issue where in a three player game one person is always going to get hosed for markers with this strategy.

Example:

Player 1 has central deployment and places a marker on the closest edge of one of the long zones.

Player 2 has long edge deployment and places a marker on the closest edge of the central zone.

The only zone left for Player 3 is the far long edge of the board.

Example setup issue.

There doesn't seem to be any way to avoid this and it always means that the last person to place their marker is always going to have the longest distance to cover in order to get to their marker which is a marked disadvantage.

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on how to address this? I can't think of any way to fix this via placement. Maybe something else, like a couple extra SS in the crew hiring to offset the penalty or something?

Glad to see some folks interested!

Gonna be running a tournament at Pandemonium Books on Saturday March 9th. Really trying to get the Malifaux community back up and running in the Boston area and this is the first attempt at it. All are welcome, new players and vets.

Info:

Entry fee: Free

Gaining Grounds 2013 Format

30 SS Fixed/Single Faction

3 Round tourney

• Round 1 Shared Treasure Hunt
  
• Round 2 Shared Land Grab
  
• Round 3 Shared Slaughter
  

There are no painting requirements although all models must be assembled. Proxies are fine so long as they can be easily identified as the model in question.

Saturday March 9th, 1-6pm.

Pandemonium Books

4 Pleasant St Cambridge MA

Note: If you're interested in playing, please sign up here in the thread or send me a PM. I've arranged space for 8-10 players but this could be way more or less than needed, I don't really have much to base it off of yet.

Just my 2 cents that these are awesome and help get me through the day!

Wow, that does look good. I'll be stealing that technique or something similar if I'm looking to do stones on foam again. Might try that with a smaller handle to make stonework on buildings.

Nice looking board Jonasty! Are those bricks all carved out of foam? If so....I can understand the pain and suffering you put into that. I bet those are a dream to use and store though.

I actually am really liking these boards with 1x1 parts...might have to give something like that a shot. I think rather than card out texture, I'd put in a bit more money to save stress and cover the ground with something like this where I need cobblestone:

http://www.cheltenhammodelcentre.com/shopexd.asp?id=8075

http://www.cheltenhammodelcentre.com/shopexd.asp?id=8077

Thanks for the comments!

Yeah I started to find cobblestone "sheets" like those after I'd already started carving the foam. Believe me, it'll be the last time I do that. It gives a very nice effect and I like the way it turned out but it was a pain in the ass. But yeah they're super fun to use and even more so cause I can swap them around to a good number of board layouts. They're also wicked easy to store cause I can just stack them up on top of each other rather than having this massive 3'x3' sitting around my apartment, which the wife approves of. Any future boards I make will probably be modular in some fashion cause it's just super easy to work and deal with.

Finally got some pics thrown on here. Glad this thread started as it provided me an excuse to get around to snapping them. :1_Happy_Puppet2:

The gaming surface.

Popped out to show the "seams".

Tiles swapped up.

Sewer drainage pipe, or will be once it's painted up.

Som'er standing on a canal to provide some scale.

Ultimately I'm happy with what is shaping up to be the final product of the board. Nothing nearly as fancy as what was offered for sale but it suits my needs and was well within my meager budget.

Still need to base coat the rest of the water sections and then all that's left is pouring the resin. The cobblestones are a little too grid line for my tastes in areas but as they were all hand carved with a hot tool I'm ok with that in the end. Plus, when you add buildings and other terrain it hides the repitition no problem. It's also nice because with the buildings being placed over the cobblestones, it creates natural street and alley effects simply with their placement.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions, etc?

Have you thought about a way to connect the boards so they don't come apart during play? seems like that could be a problem.

Haven't experienced too much of a problem with this cause the plywood bottom lends enough weight to each section that they don't slide around when on the table. (Obviously if you hip check them hard enough that's another matter but general gameplay hasn't had any issues.) Rather than try to connect them with latches or connectors, what I would probably do if I did have problems is just buy one of those rubbery non-slip mats that you can throw under a carpet on a wood floor to keep it from slipping. They work great for all those cardboard tabletop rpg map tiles that are out there, should work equally well for a modular game board and they're pretty cheap to boot.

Maybe, depending on what used for the water.. Ill take closer look when get home (on cell phone so can only see it so well.) The good water products are not cheap. Also have to add in the persons time. People seldom do when comes to terrain. Ive gotten lot request to buy terrain Ive made.. yet people always offer basically what cost in materials. Why in hell would I put 4-5 hours into a building then sell it for what got in materials?

Not saying that its worth 400$, just saying its worth lot more then 50$.

Oh I'm not questioning that in the slightest, totally agree. I've spent less than $100 making my board, and the quality isn't remotely close to what was included in the original link but I'd sure as heck charge more than 100 were I ever to try to sell it simply because you're right, the time, effort, and hassle putting it together is where the price comes in. It's the same principle as with a mechanic, you can buy the parts for cheap and do it yourself but it's the labor where it jumps cause most people don't want to do it.

My point in the original post was that it was possible to make the board for a lot less. The unspoken implication that should have been elaborated on was that the savings comes out in your own manual labor lol.

And sorry I didn't get photos up, I was dealing with Boston's Snowmageddon this weekend and was a little burned out. Photos should be up tonight after work.

Very nice. I'm finishing up a modular board of my own and I think they're the way to go when you can.

Totally agree with the wood base idea. I grabbed a sheet of plywood from Home Depot, cut it up and glued the foam to that and then trimmed the foam from the edges. It helps make the placement a little more flush with the various pieces.

Love the Teddy! He was one of my favorites to paint too.

This is pretty sweet. What's funny is I've made one of these (technically in the process of making) and it cost me a helluva lot less than 500 bucks, probably closer to the realm of $50-75. I'm certainly no master sculptor/modeler when it comes to my work but it's pretty good for what it is. And I've seen some of the stuff people come up with on here and there's some real talent on these boards so it could be done even better.

I'll get some pics up tonight but so far it's been pretty simple. A sheet of plywood from Home Depot cut into 1'x1' squares, a couple of sheets of foam board from Michael's equally cut, some Elmer's glue, and some paint. Carve your design into the foam, glue it to the boards, and paint. Haven't gotten to the resin water step yet, it's too cold now and you gotta do it outside cause the smell while it cures is unreal. The hardest part actually was the initial design, cause I'm ocd about the waterways and had to make sure they all lined up no matter which direction they face. It's truly modular though, you've got 9 boards that can be interchanged to come up with any number of canal based designs.

I know in the Boston area it used to be bigger right in the beginning but there was a decent amount of player loss due to all the errata and changes that were being released with little organization to them. It's understandable given the newness of the game when it was first released but from what I've learned, players were growing frustrated having to reference 800 different forum posts just to play their games and they just gave up on it.

This has been corrected via the updated stat cards and Wyrd's awesome job of organizing all the errata into easily reference-able sections on the main page and forums but the damage was done, so to speak. I'm slowly rebuilding the interest but I'm definitely finding it to mainly be trying to pull new people in, the old guard seem fine to keep away at this point. Still not giving up though. *smug*

And as far as the mini's preview discussions, I agree with most of the above posters that we've seen a lot of the previews earlier so there's less to discuss. ALTHOUGH, guaranteed if they were to post a preview shot of the elusive Hoffman Avatar, you'd see these boards light right up.

:Rat_Exclaimation:

Given that he can only heal other nightmares with his counters, other thing to pick up if you can would be a pack of Alps. They'd probably provide even less synergy specifically with Dark Debts and they're certainly not strong models on their own. But given how quickly Coppelius gathers the eyeball counters, they're freebies you'll be able to pop out to give you more board control/activations if nothing else.

Am I the only one who thought there was a section of that article that was missing?

"Enjoy Big Trouble in Little China a thousand times."

Don't get me wrong, this is not a complaint in the slightest and it's one of the big reasons why the first SoS models I'm buying are the Yan Lo box, Burt, Gracie, and Wong. I love the movie and I love the minis!

But seriously you gotta acknowledge that someone's love of John Carpenter's classic leaked into the design just a little bit.

I'd say McTavish personally. You don't see too many of those done up so it'd be cool to see.

Love the paints, think they're great.

I too went with blue gloves, it seemed to fit with what I always see in doctor's offices. What I ended up doing was using a darker base, GW Hawk Turquoise (think they now call it Sotek Green), and then drybrushing a light blue over that. Actually the light blue I used looks almost exactly like the one your gloves have as a base.

I found the drybrushing gave the gloves the lighter effect of the overall glove like you'd expect and the turquoise helped pop the shadows so it looked a little more "hefty". I'll try to find a pic to show you if I can.

This is awesome, thanks so much!

So does anyone know of an US-based wargame terrain companies? I've seen a lot of posts on here for some excellent companies and sites but they're all out of the UK it seems. I'm fine with paying extra shipping charges for quality products when I have to but it is hard to believe that they're isn't anything stateside that has something to offer. And given that like most gamers money doesn't exactly grow on trees in my house, trying to save it is a top priority.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I'll be running a demo session this Thursday 1/17 at Pandemonium Books and Games for anyone interested. I'm meeting someone there who requested a demo and there's plenty of room for others. For those not familiar with the store, I'll be downstairs where all the games tables are set up. Should have my Henchman t-shirt on but if not, I'll be the guy setting up the Malifaux models. :-)

Pandemonium Books and Games (downstairs)

Cambridge MA

Thurs 1/17, 4:30PM-7:30PM

Just finished my first Vassal game with Fubar, 20 SS test game Pandora(me) vs Perdita(fubar). Lost pretty handily!

First impressions of Vassal are great! Once you get the hang of it, it's wicked easy to use and play with. Looking forward to many games with folks going forward.