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Tokaji

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Posts posted by Tokaji

  1. Hey all-

    I'm looking to make a horde of Card Soldiers (here's an image of what I had in mind: http://images.wikia.com/kingdomhearts/images/e/ed/Card_Soldiers_KHREC.png) as a project, but have never worked with plasticard before. I don't know what a proper thickness to work with would be - they need to be fairly easy to work with but still maintain a tabletop sturdiness. I've heard three different methods of forming/bending the plasticard: heatgun, boiling water, and flames, and have no idea which is best (though I suppose it changes for the thickness and all).

    Any advice would be fantastic!

    Thanks.

  2. Just to speak to those people who referenced the models. With Chiaki, you can stick her into the flame base part without gluing, it's very snug, for base coating and then separate for painting. For the Soul Porter, I didn't have any problems, but I did keep the lanterns off of the pole until I had them painted, and it made life much easier.

  3. I don't mean to bug anyone or ask questions that have been asked before, but I have yet to receive my new cards (I'm in the US, just to clarify). If they were sent out on the 11th (and I admit I'm making a few assumptions here: all shipped out at once, got shipped on time), shouldn't they all have arrived by now? Anyone else in this boat?

  4. Ah okay. Well, they don't really smell like anything in particular, but this is what I'm talking about:

    Notice how, particularly with the first one, the section of armour has sunk back against the legs. I'm not really fussed about it, but I just thought I'd mention it.

    I'm pretty sure it's supposed to do that, as that's the way mine and every other picture I've seen are. It's broken lamella from the armor that have fallen and are trying to find a place to sit on a moving skeleton.

  5. If you're taking crooligans you really need 2 at the bare minimum. Because of how they work they get multiplicatively better the more you have.

    Which is really rather unfortunate. I don't mind Crooligans with the right Strat or Scheme combo, and the models are fantastic, but I would probably run them with McM, as you said. Then cut the Machine and attach the Spirit to Molly. Then at least when the Crooligans die (lets face it, they're really best for running interference anyway), then you can summon much better stuff to replace them. On that same note, I'd probably put in two dogs instead of the Belle, but that's just my crazy sacrificial playstyle talking.

  6. That's all done using Realistic Water. The Porter's I made by "painting" thin sheets of it on plastic wrap for the waterfalls and then painting it, etc. Yan Lo's I made by putting plastic wrap and some rocks in the bottom of a very small tube and pouring in the water a quarter inch or so at a time. Took a full day or so for each layer to dry, but it worked out really well for explosive water effects.

  7. Hey all. I've been playing Malifaux for a little over two years now, but have never bothered to post my models up here. Didn't think my older ones were all that deserving of it, but I think my newer ones have come a lot farther. Comments and criticism welcome.

    Here's a Black Blood Shaman

    post-8159-13911926596805_thumb.jpg

    And Lilith

    post-8159-13911926598404_thumb.jpg

    Seamus

    post-8159-13911926600143_thumb.jpg

    post-8159-13911926596046_thumb.jpg

    post-8159-13911926597599_thumb.jpg

    post-8159-13911926599283_thumb.jpg

  8. Personally, when you're just starting out, unless you have a good chunk of income to devote to it, I would generally recommend picking a faction to start with, and then a master or two within it. This allows you to get some different play styles in, but it also affords the opportunity to expand and play around with said crews. Then, when you've accumulated enough money/one faction, you can expand into another.

    Of the options that you've listed, they're all pretty tough starter crews, as they have a lot of text, a lot of options, and the strategy learning curves are pretty steep. The exception is Rapsy, who's pretty simple, but takes a bit of expanding to be viable (the ice golem is kind of useless).

  9. There are a few topics that have already discussed these questions, but I'll give you a quick rundown.

    1) Yes, you can still reflip on a black joker initiative.

    2) Think about it like this: Melee range is measured from base to base, and bases are considered to be columns the circumference of the models base and the height of the model. So if an H2 model has a melee range of 2, then that is considered to be their 'reach.' Thus, if they come into melee range of a model behind terrain and can draw LOS, they can hit it, and vice versa.

    2a) Normally, not unless you can draw line of sight. Lilith is the only exception to this rule I can think of.

    2b) Yes it does, see above.

    2c) There is no cover in melee

    2d) You can never shoot out of melee.

  10. I already figured that Jacob would be much better with beckoners. However they aren't available as ten thunders models and that's what I want to try running him as. Thanks for the suggestions anyway.

    If you read Lynch's card carefully, he can always hire the Beckoners as they have brilliance.

    Anyway, moving back to the topic at hand. From what I can see yin will be an okay meatshield provided that she can stay out of the range of Black blood.

    Can anyone think of anything I should be worried about when it comes to playing yin?

    Edit: Turns out I was mistaken. In my book beckoners are called jezebels. At least I think thats what the jezebels are. As a side note, I still want to stay away from the beckoners for a bit.

    Not sure why they're called that, but okay. I would still recommend the Beckoners. They are nasty and add some much-needed ranged support. As for Yin, you have to watch out for spells and paired weapons. Either of those can take her down a lot faster.

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