zeil999

Okay, so my very first serious attempt ever at painting miniatures has finally arrived to completion. Man, was it a learning experience too. Research and getting used to the process of manipulating the paint to how I want it to look was very tedious to say the least. Also, quite a few "happy accidents". ^.^ Let me know what you guys think.

Hello all! Wanted to spread the word of a Malifaux Game Night happening in the Nashville, TN area. Beginners and Newcomers welcome and encouraged to come join in on the fun! Date: 7/23/12 Time: 6:30pm Where: Comix City Too! 1574C Gallatin Pike N Madison, TN 37115 615-868-3339 Hopefully we can make this a regular game night at Comix City Too! Hope to see you there!

I gotta say the Simple Green/Ultrasonic cleaner combo worked wonders! I was lucky that my dad actually owns an Ultrasonic cleaner. In all it took about 1.5 hours to get just about all paint completely striped. The best part of it all, almost no scrubbing! Just a little agitation of the model in the Simple Green got the pesky deep spots. The only scrubbing I had to do was when I was giving an acetone bath to get rid of the glue as well as the paint underneath. Happy camper right here. So, if you tend to strip models often, I highly suggest getting an ultrasonic cleaner. Works wonders. You could easily strip a ton of models for a half days work. (if you want to call it work as you don't do anything but wait.)

Yeah, I've heard of that happening. That's one of the reasons why I sculpt the master in FIMO and then make a mold and cast it in resin. Then the resin version goes on the plastic base. ^.^ Another reason I don't use the FIMO version and instead make resin casts and use those, is because FIMO is generally not rock solid. There's some potential for damage or breakage to occur if you're not careful.

Awesome! Good to know. In this particular situation I'm in, if the round base was a square, the base "insert" only over hangs on one side and is still above the level of the 30mm rim. Thank you, Ratty, for the quick reply. ^.^

Seeing as this is my first go at a miniature game, which inherently includes painting, sculpting and basing and what not. My question is, is it okay if a base protrudes past the designated 30mm/40mm/50mm plastic base? For instance, if I have a stone cliff that over hangs the edge of the 30mm plastic base that comes with the models. Is that okay? More specifically is it acceptable in official tourneys? Thanks in advanced. ^.^

Yeah. What they said. I've been experimenting with FIMO polymer clay and it seems to be great for making your masters if you plan on making duplicates. I have a few custom bases in the works for my Kirai crew that I'm looking forward to making resin versions. Making your bases yourself really allows you to get creative and really personalize your models. I almost prefer to do them myself to give them that personal touch.

Interesting thread. After doing a comparison between the Battlefoam Malifaux bag and the Sargent Portable Warfare bag, it seems that the Portable Warfare bag is the better bang for the buck. It seems there would be more square inchage (is that even a word? lol) with the Portable Warfare bag, which, cost with shipping for those of us in the US, is roughly the same as going with Battlefoam. Seems to me that I shouldn't have an issue getting the 5 crews that I've accumulated, avatars, decks, books, and possibly all Puppet Wars stuff to fit all in the Portable Warfare bag. I really like the fact that all the trays are pluck-and-pull style for ultimate flexibility. All that being said, I need a bag to store all my Malifaux stuff and I think I just got sold on Portable Warfare. Thanks for this thread. And thanks Ciaran. ^.^

Johan from the Outcasts came with his own base insert as well. Mainly because of the way he was sculpted it was necessary.

Hey! These are looking great! I like the style as it's progressed. The only thing that's been bugging me a bit is the "old cracked paint" look. It really isn't working for me as it's detracting from the artwork on the card itself and doesn't really seem to fit properly with the medium (i.e. ink printed cards). To my knowledge, I've never seen ink crack like that. Even on old vintage printings. It would seem that a "folded" wearing on it would work much better and span across past the art work and into the rest of the card too. Just my 2¢. ^.^ But like I said, I'm loving the direction in which they are going and I love how you solved the J, Q, K - 11, 12, 13 conversion and design where they can be read as either the letter or the number. Kudos on that part to no end. ^.^

Here's an attached pic that hopefully shows what I mean. Good luck!

If you look very closely to the base of the resin neck on the rear side pointing towards the center of the entire base, there's a tiny hole there where the nub on the bottom of Sonnia's coat goes into (providing you didn't already snip that nub thinking it doesn't belong there). It's not much but it might do if you're just trying to get it together. I ended up pinning mine. Don't know how I did it. Just got lucky I suppose.

Awesome Fetid! Definitely PM me if that becomes the case. I'm on the north side of Nashville. It'll be nice to play with someone who has some experience behind them.

Ha! Thanks for the welcomes and pleasure meeting everyone. ^.^

Hello, everyone! Granted this isn't my first post (might as well be), but I'm so excited to play more of Malifaux and Puppet Wars. This is my first miniature venture and am new to almost everything (yes, that includes assembly and painting), so I'm liable to ask many questions. Some I'm sure that could be considered stupid, but hey, I gotta ask it eventually. Better than looking like an ass later on. Also, if there are any other players in the Nashville area, please feel free to PM me so we can possibly meet up and get some games running. Cheers!!! ^.^

Has anyone on here ever used Golden Fluid Acrylics? I ended up buying some, but have yet to pop open the cap and squeeze a few off.