jmp_mydog

See?

Man, I coulda swore you said John, figured shortman was coming out.

Jeeze you whine alot...

Glenn you up for a game?

:elefant: That's right Ladies and Gentlemen see it here first! :elefant:

Welcome to the RIW Freak Show!

SEE THE WYRD MONKEY PAINT IN FRONT OF YOUR VERY OWN EYES!

It's amazing! Children, be not afraid. Ladies, bring a strong burly man to protect you! This freak of nature is a sight to behold!

Not only does he paint better than most or all of the local competition but, he does it faster too! He'll finish a "little man" in 30 minutes, with a smile on his face!

Prepare yourselves to be shocked and awed as you see things that can never be unseen...

:elefant: SO STEP RIGHT UP AND PREPARE TO BE AMAZED!!!:elefant:

Disclaime: Only adults and supervised children will be allowed to attend as the monkey has tendencies to become vulgar and throw bodily fluids onto the crowds.

After the show, there will be a public stoning of the monkey from all of us not able to paint as fast/good. Start looking for your throwing rocks now...

Can you feed the monkey?

You can also talk to your opponent about making the game a bit more interesting by trying different schemes

Now why would you EVER want to talk to the person you're playing a GAME against. That just seems like crazy talk to me.

But seriously, most people play game to have fun, if you're not having fun you should talk to your opponent about why and then change it.

I like this one.

I've looked into the foundation paints and heard a lot of good things about them, so I'll definitely pick up a few. I know what ghostwalker means about GW colours such as red, especially when you want to thin your basecoat down without having to layer the same colour just for the sake of coverage.

I too have been experimenting with the foundation paints. The nice thing I've found with them is you can thin them significantly and still get excellent coverage.

Interesting question.

There isn't anything in the rules that says a killed model is reduced to 0 wounds - just that reducing to 0 kills a model. So I think that by the letter of the rules, the model still has Wd remaining when it's killed, so could use Self Mutilate with those Wd.

That logic is a good way to not have anyone to play with.

First rule when playing any game DBAD

Hey guys I played my first real game last Sunday and really enjoyed it but I just wanted to clarify a couple of things that seemed contentious.

1. When I deploy Bete Noire as per her "Drawn to Death" ability does the killed living or undead model still generate a corpse counter?

2. Can I have a Punk Zombie use "Self-Mutilate" for his slow to die action?

Also, I was using Nicodem and it seemed pretty difficult to get my reanimator spell to go off. I didn't make the cast successfully until the last couple of turns to get a Punk and a crooked man on the table but it was already too late to stop my opponent from achieving the strategy. I was wondering if anyone had any general advice about bettering my odds of getting the cast I need because I really suffered without any substantial combat models on the table for the majority of the game and do you think it's a good idea to hire maybe one or two punks or crooked men from the get go instead of relying on cheap dogs to generate corpse counters?

1 and 2 were already answered. Your best bet to get reanimator off is to have some stones to add to your total with a crow in hand.

And the real question is whether or not you will be selling them once you make them. I am considering a rasputina army at some point soon.

Probably... if I can find a way to produce them that doesn't cost a fortune in time and materials.

I like the idea, but it seems like a lot of work.

THere is a company that makes clear resin bases:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/25mm-clear-acrylic-bases-laser-cut-/150453446684?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&hash=item2307b9681c

Of course if you enjoy the process, more power to ya!

It's a bit of a pain, but I think it will be worth it once I get all the kinks worked out.

The laser cut is a good idea, but these are 3-dimensional. Basically I took my rock base mold and am doing a clear version. It's amazing how much the rocks look like chunks of ice.

I've been experimenting with creating clear resin versions of some of my bases to use with a Rasputina crew. I think I found the right product now it's just a matter of trouble shooting some of the kinks in the process (namely mixing issues and setting time).

Has anyone had any experience with casting clear resin, if so any tips?

As you can see from the photo, I set the bases down thinking they were set and the bottoms were just tacky enough to pull up the material I set them on.

I also offer a painting service: twilightemporium.net.Should have an opening on the painting table for the next month or so.

I like the dragon forge cobblestone base personally. They give a nice downtown theme and are plain enough to not detract from the mini.

While I like the Wyrd victorian bases, the ivy feels weird to me, I like vegitation to look like like if I add it to a base.

the reason for the blue trim was to tie the faction models together as a unit, give some sort of coherency across all the models. Im not too gone on how bright the blue is either, but im at a bit of a loss.

Do you guys know of a way to mute the blue? still leave it there, but with a much darker hue?

You might want to try something like an english navy blue or GW Necron Abyss Foundation paint. It will give you a deep muted blue that is closer to black and less distracting.

With the train board I have we play it as follows:

Players flip to see who places the engine on a track at the board edge. Each turn a new car is added to the track. Models touched by the train when it moves forward suffer an uncheatable 2/5/killed damage flip.

As a variation I've also tried having players flip for the train weak=1 car, moderate=2cars, severe=3cars. Once the full train is on the table a car length equals 5".

Both offer a bit of tension without being over powered. Models attempting to board the train make a Df->10 resist failure means a damage flip.

Thanks for uploading this in bit-by-bit. For someone who wants to build, but is intimidated by seeing just finished products, this is great to see it really in its in between phases. How do you get such good texture in the last pictures though?

Basically using textured wallpaper and a sand mixture secured with wood glue.

After that it's just a matter of drybrushing with several variations on warm and cool grays. After that's dried I use a water based wood stain and stipple everything. While it's still wet use a rag to blot up the stain and give a better texture.

There's a more detailed step-by-step on my site.

The technique is similar to faux finish painting you can don on your walls. You can also buy glazing medium to get a simialr effect. For most of my terrain I used house paint as a base and then use craft paint for detail work.

Twilight Emporium just posted an interview with Dave Freeman of Cipher Studios. He discusses the pending English release of Hell Dorado.

Link Here.

Bit more progress.

Depending on the venue I will do demos one of two ways.

1. Con or other event with lots of people coming through.

Give quick demos of the game mechanics, just use two models set up close to each other. This will quickly show the basics of the game and you can gage their interest. (I'll usually have two guys playing a game nearby, to entertain people waiting)

2. Local Store

Here I will usually set up two crews with standard deployment and shared treasure hunt. For a first time demo I leave out schemes and explain them after the game as well the other strategies. The biggest hurdle for first time players is getting their head around the basic mechanics, keeping it simple speeds up the process.

Tedious indeed. My craft stick shacks for A-con have nearly cost me my sanity(I made 24 of them). Honestly after this project I want to learn more tricks and really up my terrain making game.

I seen nice results carving sheets of balsa, but this tend to be a bit more costly than using the craft sticks. If you're making multiples of the same type of building, creating a mold of the walls and casting them out of dental plaster is the way to go. The mold silicon is a bit pricey but you can mass produce terrain fairly quickly with some practice.

A rotary cutter makes crafting shingles a breeze though. You can cut cereal boxes into small rectangles quickly. Attaching them is still slightly tedious though ...

Made a bit more progress on this board.

I've made my own zombies out of Flagelant bodies with ghoul arms, they look a lot more in proportion than the current zombies. You should be able to get lots of spare arms off any VC player that has ghouls you get tonnes in the box.

The empire militia also has some nice parts if you want to give them more of a citizen feel. Particularly the greatcoats.

I'm a big fan of foamcore covered with craft sticks. Tedious process but it results in great builidings.

Check out my site for some of the boards I've built for Malifaux. One of the coolest things about the game are the encounter locations. Having boards for each of them gives a true feel for playing in the world.

I'm glad I'm not the only one

same here. own them all.

Very nice. You gonna use this at the next tourney if its done?

Most likely, so long as it turns out ok.