Bexley

In a weird way, this might be sort of good news. It's long been known that LRB6.0 will be the "finalized" version of the rules. Jervis Johnson has dropped hints that because of this, 6.0 might see a print edition. There have also been rumors of GW releasing models for all the star players and positions that aren't yet covered, along with said printed rulebook. Last year, they finally began repackaging the team boxes to reflect the way the rosters are now constructed. Space Hulk went over really well for them- it might be they are planning a new BB box set. Which would explain why they are clamping down on IP infringements. Especially if they plan to release new figures, it makes sense to stamp out fan figs which "aren't BB (wink wink) figures" but clearly are.

Ugh. Aren't pirates over yet?

Lisete looks awesome, though. I just wish I could get a 54mm Caperucita from them that doesn't have a broken pistol. (In their defense, my replacement came all the way from Spain very quickly. However, as they just baggied it and stuck it in an envelope, the replacement was broken as well.)

Thing is guys, while it sucks and was handled badly, GW must protect their IP like any company or risk loosing the copy write. If you don't protect it and are seen to protect it then its all bad.

It could have been handled in a much friendlier way but this is what happens when you open the cage door for the lawyers...

My guess is there is a legal case pending somewhere and GW need to be able to stand up and say they are protecting their IP...

Even moreso for companies that do business internationally, as they have to universally protect their IP based on IP laws in all the countries they sell in. And some countries have some bizarre ones. If forget which one (I want ot say Germany) but a country in Europe has laws where allowing another company to use a registered trademark, even for non profit/fan purposes, is legally the same as abandoning the trademark.

And to say GW handled this badly is silly. They gave TBB a list of options in order to keep running. The biggest problem GW had was using Blood Bowl in the site name. TBB was only closing because the domain owner decided it was too much effort to get it changed.

HO is about 20mm.

I think Vike was only talking about the Dero rules being fan-made and unofficial.

Read that more carefully- "both" refers to the original base rules and Novgorod.

They are still in the process of updating the rules, for both the base game and Novgorod. Both will be included in the upcoming V2 rules, which will be made available for download as well as for sale in a print edition from FFG.

I is SMRT.

the dero faction is composed of 2 heroes (pilot and scout) and 1 trooper (drone), with the option to play 1 hero and 3 troopers. The pictures on the cards depict storm, assault, and grim golems from the at-43 game by rackham.

I suspect the whole is better than the sum of it's parts, though.

Still, for what it probably costs, I'd rather the quality be a bit better.

You know, terrain would be a lot easier if Nathan would just change the entire game to 1:87.1 scale. ;P

Modeler. By far. The last game I played (that wasn't demoing a game for others at GenCon, at least) was a game of Blood Bowl a few weeks after I got laid off (in January), as my opponent was moving back to Indiana and wanted to get in a game before leaving.

Just about never. Maybe sometimes on GW style bases. But I only use those for figs I intend to use, in a game where the base size is important, like 40K. My Blood Bowl team is based on the 30mm Wyrd rounded lip bases, since the size doesn't reall y make a difference in the game. For the Wyrd style, I cut .010" thick circle out of styrene, and make an "insert" of sorts. I set the plastic circle in an old scrap base , and I build up the base with Milliput or Apoxie. (Talc the base first, so the putty won't stick.) Then when it has cured, I pop it off the base. If I need the figure to be integrated into the base somehow, I'll make just a thin blank with the putty, to get the form and so it fits the inset of the base. Then I'll remove it from the scrap base, add the figure (or more putty, and then the figure, depending on what I'm going for) then prime them together.

52-54mm. Armor kits are 1/35, which is about 52mm, and a lot of companies make diorama figures for that scale. "Historical miniatures" as a category tend to be 54mm, though.

I know I'm in the minority, but I'm all for longer. Mutual suffering is a bonding experience!

Yeah- it occurred to me that with all the new traffic from Malifaux, IP could be many more rounds. Not that that's a bad thing. I think I am more an endurance painter than a sprinter.

I like "rolled edge" or "rounded lip" better than "premium" as a description. It's more precise, and it differentiates them from standard type slottabases,

You mean scale lurch.

The die takes way too long to roll- it's quicker to simply roll your own dice. Overall, the whole thing appears to be mostly flash and little actual helpful substance.

However, I really like the P3 paints too. 90% of mine are P3. They need to switch to droppers though! Hell, I'd even pay $1 more if they'd switch to dropper.

1/2 Oz. Boston Rounds

Dropper tips

Caps

Total price per twelve dropper bottles: $6.00, or $.50 each.

Rustoleum for gaming, Mr. Surfacer 1000 for display.

I agree that some of the minis are totally hit-and-miss; the good ones are absolutely awesome but the others are rather bland at best. As per their website, the mechanics seem simple enough but without the rulebook it's hard to tell for certain. Does anyone know if it's possible to play the game at all without it? I also gotta say that I love the character cards which sadly, is the only thing that I think Malifaux could have done better.

The starter rules come with the starter boxes, and are also available on the site. (www.animarpg.com).

There are three alignments (Light, Neutral, Dark) and six factions. I believe you can play with two figs per side (the starters come with two figures) but I've heard it's not very balanced unless you have at least three per side.

I can't tell for sure (I don't own a steamborg, so I don't know exactly how the legs attach) but it looks like you could glue them in place and through-pin them. Basically, you glue the leg on, then carefully drill right through the leg into the steamborg. Place a pin into the hole, and mark it where you need to cut. Take the pin out, and cut it. MAKE SURE TO CUT IT SO THAT IT WILL BE BELOW THE SURFACE OF THE MINI. If you leave it too long, you will have to grind or file it down afterward. Then glue it in place with epoxy. I recommend epoxy over super glue for the pin, as superglue can bond quickly in such a tight space, and it may bond before you get the pin all the way into the hole. Once the epoxy has cured, you apply some green stuff or Milliput to the small indentation, and smooth it out.

I use this method frequently, as it's really good for attaching small bits that have attachment points too thin to drill into without going straight through. It also solves the problem of aligning the holes, as they're both drilled at the same time in one pass.

Whoa! Mirelurk!

Not to make it sound like my final round loss was so devastating I couldn't pick up the brushes again.

I just hadn't had the time. This one was for the Cipher/Anima Wissenschaft Agent contest. The winner gets some store credit, and the winning fig becomes Cipher's studio master. In usual IP fashion, I put it off, then forgot, and remembered the day before. So, as per my usual MO, it was rushed. Overall, things could be a lot smoother.

Even so, I ended up winning.