Gabbi

Hi,
 for various reasons I have never moved to Third Edition. Since I'm happy with M2E and I can get them for cheap, I was thinking about getting Shifting Loyalties and the Campaign Deck.
I would have a couple questions about this:
1) I would get the book to play Campaign mode mostly. Is it any good? How it compares with other campaign oriented games? (i.e. Necromunda, Mordheim, Frostgrave, Warcry, etc...). It is worth getting it for the campaign mostly?
2) I will be set with just the book and Campaign Deck, or will I need the Generalist Upgrade Deck, too?
Thanks!

Gwyneth Maddox found!

I'm interested, if it's M2E Anna Lovelace.
I'm afraid I'm not interested in the version from Reva Core Box.
What would you like to get?
Thank you.

Looking for:
Gwyneth Maddox
Anna Lovelace
Ferdinand Vogel (not interested in this as much as in previous two)
preferably with M2E cards, preferably new on sprue, but will consider any condition.

I can part with:
Malifaux Child in clear pink
Graveyard Spirit in pink fluo
Rasputina in clear blue
all still on sprue
or I can send money via PayPal

I am in ITALY, so I will prefer to trade within Europe, but will consider any location.
 

I'd like to be able to enter the number of models painted, as I assemble and paint my models when I need them. For example, I have one Beckoner, two Depleted, one Tot painted, the rest is still on sprue
Minor improvement, and no way a necessary one, but would be nice to have this option.

Thank you

I've recently completed the Guild half of the starter set, too.

Despite Guild is one of the factions I'm less interested into, I truly love the sinister vibe of this crew.
Also, the two orderlies look like Lorenz and Lindemann from Rammstein! =)

Finished models.
Some regret in color choice: the hospital colors are great to tie them to Starter Set content, but they could look odd if I'll ever use them in a crew...

Not dayglow Lynch, but I have painted a few clear minis with some parts left in plastic color.
The one I'm most proud of is the "water weird" you can see here:
https://gabbigames.wordpress.com/2015/03/24/reaper-bones-acqua-e-pietra/

I've simply painted the stone area as normal, and washed then gently highlighted the clear-blue plastic of the creature.
Since the model is from Reaper Bones line, I haven't sprayed it (the materian can react weirdly to sprayed stuff), but in case of hard plastic like your dayglo Lynch, I would probably spray clear sealant first to have a better surface for washes to stick to.

Thanks for replies!

Hi, I need just a confirm.

Two models are engaged with a terrain elementproviding hard cover between them, like in the following pic:

Dr. Grimwell (model on the left) has range 2" melee attack action.
When the model attack the opponent, it doesn't suffer any  due to intervening terrain, as hard cover provides protection just vs ranged attacks, am I correct?

I've started working on the Bloodwretches.

Still w.i.p.

Thanks for replies! I usually leave out s&s while teaching game to someone new, but this friend is quite used to minis especially Warmahordes, so I think he's also used to a gameplay focused on controlling the board, to some extent. Anyway, I'll leave s&s out as suggested. If after a couple of turns I see he's already grasped the core mechanics, I'll offer to start over with s&s. Thanks again for advice!

This night or -more probably- tomorrow's I'm going do show the game to a friend. I plan to use the crews from starter box, as my 2nd full crew isn't table ready atm.
Since the friend I'll show the game to has quite someexperience with miniature games, I think it would be ok to show him full game, with s&s and everything, but I'm concerned the crews from starter box aren't sufficient to face a full game. So I'm thinking to add at least one model each (something straightforward like deperate mercs or convict gunslingers, maybe both?). Also, for this demo game I could show him s&s generation, but afterward go for s&s chosen with this game in mind, so s&s that are: 1) doable with the crews used, and 2) not too complicated for a player trying the game 1st time. 
Any suggestion would be appreciated, both in picking s&s and in adding a model that doesn't have synergies with a crew but not with the other.

Thanks.  

You're right. Fixed

On 8/14/2016 at 7:19 AM, Viagrus said:

As far as terrain is concerned there's always paper craft.

I second this. While at close inspection it is obviously inferior to resin and plastic terrain, once on the table it looks great.

All the terrain in the following pic, except the trees, the gallows in the upper-right corner, and the big tree-tower in the low-left corner, is paper terrain. A few element came printed and cut, the majority is home printed from PDFs.

More pics: https://gabbigames.wordpress.com/2015/12/27/malifaux-neverborn-vs-outcasts-50ss/

Also, if you're on tight money, you can buy one PDF and print it multiple times. Some of them offer also variations in textures and detail via layers (for example Dave Graffam ones) so you can print several without having two looking exactly the same. There also some free ones, try looking on WargameVault for start.

Today I've finally assembled the Guild half of my starter set.
...it's just me, or the beefy Orderly do reminds of Till Lindemann (especially while performing live Mein Teil ) ?

I've just comp'leted another model (that everyone says me it's a great tool to have).

Very quick paintjob, as usual, I have aimed just to a nice tabletop quality.
Unable to decide on painting what’s on her hands as skin or as a towel, I chose a color similar to the skin tone, but lighter. So it could be both…
Once finished, I alternated matte and gloss coat, to give contrast between skin and skinless parts. I think it looks nice.
More pics: https://gabbigames.wordpress.com/2016/08/12/neverborn-doppelganger/
Comments will be welcome

I've learned to love my Depleted. Just be aware that shooting-focused crews (i.e. Von Shill) are able to blow them on your face on the very first turn if you leave them in the open

Also, even if a bit out of theme, I usually keep a Tot at hand to go for Schemes.

On 3/2/2016 at 11:45 AM, -Loki- said:

P3 make the best yellows and oranges I've used - great pigments.

Good to know, will give 'em a try.

On 3/29/2016 at 10:58 PM, Iron Syndicate said:

When it comes to thinning paints, is thinning with water enough, should I get some proper paint thinner and use that? And how do you know what ratios to use when thinning?

Water is fine. Someone suggests using distilled water. Personally, I've never felt the need, but this can change depending on the quality of the water in your area.
Also, when you'll have painted a few more models and feel more confident with your technique, you can look for a Matte Medium. It is sold by Vallejo in their typical pots, but it can also be purchased in arts stores in bigger bottles for a better value. Basically, it's the clear medium in which the color pigment is suspended. Mixed with colors, it makes them more translucent without making them more fluid (like water would do). It's useful to paint subtle lights on the minis, reducing the "step" between shadow and illuminated zones.

Love every one of your models here, the dark Tot above all.
Also, love how you paint eyes evil

Uhm... as said before, I'm not a very organized painter, and I mix paints on the whim of a moment

Anyway, I have still on the table these pots: Vallejo 70905 "Blue Grey Pale", Vallejo 70989 "Sky Grey", Reaper MSP 09061 "Linen White", plus a couple of pure whites (Army Painter and GW). I'm pretty sure I've used almost all of the above, but looking at the model I would say I've mainly used Vallejo Sky Grey, as its hue is quite characteristic, probably washed with the darker Blue Grey. Sorry for not being able to help more ^^;

Thanks!

Completed another couple of models:

As usual, C&C would be appreciated
More pics on my blog: https://gabbigames.wordpress.com/2016/03/31/neverborn-angel-eyes-e-scion-of-black-blood/