Todd

could you tell me companies that make inserts? if possible in europe better since USA ones many times dont ship overseas

thanks

It's been some time since I updated it or checked the links, but here's a pretty comprehensive list of base manufacturers that I started a while back. Some of the descriptions may tell you if the specifically make inserts, otherwise you'll just have to click and browse.

http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?27962-Manufacturers-of-Scenic-Bases&p=355240#post355240

*edit-Aetherworks seems to have exactly what you're looking for.

http://store.aetherworks.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=176_177_186&products_id=2792

Discussed a bit in the link below.

http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?47532-Disengaging

We just noticed this while playing a game this weekend. Apparently, you can walk right through a model's engagement range now, as long as you didn't start your move within it? Is this really intentional, because it seems more like a mistake?

Malifolk(s)?

Check the links in this thread out. I found quite a few really nice swamp bases while putting the list together.

http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?27962-Manufacturers-of-Scenic-Bases&highlight=bases+manufacturers

I wouldn't exactly say they didn't make any sense, up until this thread I thought they were pretty clear.

Well, then you must have played companion how it made the most sense, and never bothered to read the actual words/sentences that make up the rule. This isn't so much about "getting" how the rule works. It's about the frustration of this...

“Companion (Model or Characteristic)

Before activating a model with Companion, nominate any number of the referenced model(s) or model(s) with the corresponding characteristic within 6” of one another. These models activate simultaneously…”

... in no way coming close to conveying all of this...

You have models with the Companion (X) Ability and models with the X Characteristic (or whatever is required by Companion).

To simultaneously activate two models with Companion, one of the pair must have Companion (X), and the other must have X. Companion can be chained out across multiple pairs as long as each link in the chain is a valid Companion pairing. You nominate all the models you wish to simultaneously activate using the chain as a group and announce they are simultaneously activating.

The models you nominate are all considered to have started their activations when the group is announced. In an order of your choosing you then complete the activations for each of those models.

That’s how Companion functions. The sample diagrams below show some of the common ways models can and can’t Companion and typical chaining do's and don'ts. You should be able to extrapolate larger chains from these samples.

For the graphic, models A and C have Companion (Dude) and the Dude Characteristic, model B has the Dude Characteristic, and model D has Companion (Dude), but not the Characteristic.

Sample 1: Basic Companion. A and C can simultaneously activate with B since A and C have the Companion Ability and B has the Dude Characteristic.

Sample 2: Basic Companion. All can simultaneously activate as sample 1 since A has Companion and C has the Dude Characteristic, likewise the same goes for C and B respectively.

Sample 3: All can simultaneously activate as A and B have the Characteristic D needs for its Companion Ability.

Sample 4: This sample answers the OP's question directly. A and B1 can activate simultaneously, but B2 cannot be included in the simultaneous activation because there is no model with Companion within 6” of it.

Sample 5: This expands on samples 1 and 2. All models can simultaneously activate because in each pairing one of the models has Companion (A in the A/B, C in the B/C, and D in the C/D) while the other has the Characteristic required.

Sample 6: In this sample there are two legal simultaneous activation groups, but only one can be nominated during this activation. A and B1 can simultaneously activate, likewise B2 and D can simultaneously activate, but there is no Companion linking the two chains into one continuous chain.

Sample 7: Since D has the Companion Ability, but not Dude, D2 cannot be included in the chain as there is nothing on the model for D1’s Ability to Companion with.

ANSWER REGARDING WOMANIZER AND COMPANION

In the case of Seamus' Womanizer Action, he creates an activation opportunity for a Belle after his activation ends. Before that Belle activates it can Companion with Sybelle as normal. If Sybelle is within 6" of other Belles those models can also use their Companion to activate as well. See sample 3 above. Womanized Belle would be A, Sybelle would be D, and the other Belles would each be a C.

EXAMPLE USING MULTIPLE COMPANION TRAITS

If you always just played it right you either got lucky, chose to play it the way it made the most sense despite the RAW, learned from others who did the same, or perhaps from the context of forum rulings. In a million years you'll never convince me that the wording of Companion as it appears in the rule book conveys anything remotely similar to what we all "know" it's supposed to. You did not read the sentences written there and understand it to mean what Keltheos posted above without some sort of filling in the blanks, or ignoring of the bits that don't make sense.

Sorry Omenbringer, I hope my tone doesn't come off as too confrontational. When I started this post, I perceived your comment as more of a jab at people "rules lawyering/overthinking it" then it probably was (now that I look back at it).

Cadfan is right though, this was an errata, not a clarification.

Well, since the RAW doesn't even make any sense, nobody arguing over their interpretation should really be upset to find out the way they thought it worked was/wasn't correct.

Just apologize and don't worry about.

After your opponent activates a model.

People say they are super strong, but I doubt they are that strong. You can find some pretty small side cutters that will work on music wire. It has less to do with size and more the hardness/shape of the cutting edges. I've got a pair that came in a plier/clipper set from Harbor Freight. Super cheap (5 piece set for about $5), but they're tiny and they work.

Where is it coming from? Read the first paragraph of your post. Now read the rest of your post. Now go back and read that first paragraph again. Does your situation really justify the tone/diction you chose to use?

Consider the posts others have made. Positive prior experiences with Wyrd. Prompt responses from Wyrd (since this thread was started even). Isn't it just as likely this is simply a technical problem (possibly even on your end) rather than a customer service problem?

I'm really sorry your card didn't come and you haven't heard back from Wyrd. Though that does suck, I still wouldn't agree with the tone you initially used even if you had waited to post your issue now that your order is here.

I think everyone who has worked in customer service knows that "the customer is always right" actually means "the customer always gets what they want." Especially the ones who complain the loudest, and you don't get much louder than your original post.

I agree with Tombanjo, brass rod is good enough for most situations. Also, it's quicker and easier to work with. I feel like I end up cleaning the cut ends up more often with the music wire, and its a harder material so... it's harder.

Don't risk ruining the GF9 clippers, get something more appropriate from the hardware store.

You mean this Awesome Paint Job, right? *wink*

http://www.awesomepaintjob.com/

http://www.youtube.com/user/awesomepaintjob/

I'd like to see Colette as well.

How the heck do you get a hold of anyone at Wyrd?! Seriously, their customer service is just crap - So far it's the worst I've experienced in the gaming world.

I've attempted to contact Wyrd via email 2 (or 3) times now regarding different topics and I have YET to have received a reply to ANY of them. The last one was particularly frustrating as I placed an order for some minis from the store but forgot to add Zoraida's stat card to my order. Rather than pay the 16.50 shipping to Canada again (16.50 to ship to Canada?! Seriously? Most boxes that size I get from the US are closer to 4-5$) I emailed Nathan @ Wyrd (email address provided in my order information) within 20minutes and asked him to add the card to my order prior to shipping... My order apparently shipped 2 days later and I have no idea if the card was added or not (I'm assuming no).

This is terrible service, like I said its the worst I've experienced from any gaming company (and I play a fair few games). To me, it's a good as any reason to NOT play a game when I've got so many choices of other systems that are equally as good. Say what you will about GW or PP but they at least put an effort in.

Anyone have any suggestions, I'd really NOT like to pay 16.50 shipping again for a 0.50 card nor do I feel the need to support Wyrd anymore by buying the Zoraida model AGAIN.

Maybe it's just me, but this seems less like Wyrd providing poor service, and more like them not providing as exceptional service as you'd like based on your special circumstances. You messed up, but you expect Wyrd to fix it otherwise their service is crap? I don't know what your other email issues are, but the example you gave is pretty weak. Also, if you opened with the same tone in your emails as your post, I wouldn't blame Wyrd if they were just ignoring you.

Bigger (as in footprint) isn't ideal for Malifaux, and taller isn't something you really get with that style of terrain (woods/swamps). You could make/purchase larger stepped hills. I've seen some interesting swamp boards with lots of stilt based shanties and walkways. Still, 4" is about as high as you really get.

Making terrain is not as cheap as it sounds. You can throw some stuff together with household items, but it won't look as nice or be as durable as those GF9 items.

Here is a list of some of the most basic items you will need:

Tabletop Resin/Water Effects $10-20

Flock/Static Grass $5-10+ (You'll probably want the large containers that Woodland Scenics sells)

Bag of Playground Sand $4

Wood/PVA Glue $4-15 (Go ahead and get a large jug if you're making enough terrain for an entire table)

Polystyrene Insulation Foam Sheet $15-30 (Price varies by region and thickness)

Woodland Scenics Tree Kit $10-15

Air Drying Clay $4+ (I prefer Crayola Model Magic)

Bag of Pine Bark Nuggets $3 (great for making rocky terrain, just look at a piece some time).

Spackle/Joint Compound $5

MDF/Foamcore Sheet $5-10

Paint $? (Really depends on your palette and whether you use craft paints or mixed quarts from the hardware store, but will likely cost more than you expect).

Tools $? (Depends on what you already have, and what methods you decide to use. Kitchen knives are cheap, hot wire cutters/batteries are not. Do you have access to a jigsaw/bandsaw to cut MDF).

Time $?

If you've got some of the materials/tools already, along with either the skills or patience to use them, then go for it. The internet is full of helpful info on the subject. Do a lot of research before starting, you'll learn more that way than you will by reading the advice in this thread. No offense to anyone, but there's just way more to it than will fit in a post. I love making terrain, it's my favorite part of the hobby, and what get's me excited about playing. Recently, I've been looking into starting Infinity mostly because I really want to make the terrain that goes with it.

On the other hand, those gale force nine pieces are nice quality items. You've already sprung for the Zuzzy mat, rocks, stumps, and river, might as well keep going the ready made route. This way the quality/style will be consistent as well.

There are a few issues to think about. Will the swamps clash with the river you bought? This may not even bother you, but it would drive me crazy. If so, you may want to check out the GF9 "ponds" instead. They're pretty much the same thing, only blue (unfortunately you don't get the extra stump bases either).

You'll probably need to spend a little more than $80 since this is a malifaux table. However, this really depends on how much Zuzzy stuff you already purchased. I think that's where the bulk of your terrain should come from. Malifaux really plays better with lots of smaller pieces of terrain. the Zuzzy trees/stumps are perfect, and add the abundance of cover you need for a good game. They are a little on the dead/lifeless side. I would either pick up some GF9 or Woodland Scenics clump foliage/course turf to add some growth/moss to them. WS also make some tall grasses that look good.

Maybe:

$25- 1 box GF9 Ponds/Swamps

$50- 2 boxes GF9 Large Rockey Hill

$4- GF9 Summer 3 Color Clump Foliage Mix

$4- GF9 Green Static Grass

+More Zuzzy trees/stumps to fill out the board. Which did you already purchase, the large or small ones, and how many?

You could scratch build some shacks/shanties and bridges from corrugated card/popsickle sticks. I think these would fit the setting better than the GF9 huts (more December/snow board), and will help you add some elevation and more los blocking.

Good luck, and post some pictures when you've got everything together!

You could modify them all to be blogons and then mock up an Inspector Space Time crew

The question isn't "what can you use dalek models for", it's "when can you use dalek models for?"

Todd... there IS a comment on here about adding entirely new factioins based on a single ethnic group... you even quoted Omenbringer on page 2 talking about it. Hence my comment.

Also, if you want Ninja's with a wyrd twist, get the ten thunders brothers. That seems exactly what you're talking about.

OK, you're right (but, it's just omenbringer, and it was nearly a month ago).

I will get the ten thunders brothers, and I hope there's more where they came from!

It works the same way. You spend 1 AP, dance apart, then you have however many AP left to split among the models.

When you split, you decide which model gets what wounds and effects, etc.

Then, once that is done, both are still "activated" so you can immediately move, attack, etc with what points and zero actions you have left.

For example, if you split first thing on the turn with your fast action, you still have 2 AP to split among the two models. So one model can have 2 AP, or both can have one each.

Actually, AP and Wds are divided between the models "as evenly as possible", and effects are applied to all replacing models (RM pg.38).

Also, last I checked the jury is still out on assimilating Use Soul Stone (masters/henchmen are assumed to have it, but it's not written on their cards). I'm sure this will be covered in the forthcoming FAQ.

Is there a reason why there is a reshuffle every turn?

Random order being randomized again doesn't make it better in my mind, unless you reshuffle the discard pile as well? now that would be important.

I don't have my RM here...hence the questions.

Ideally, you've used cards throughout the turn doing things. Reshuffling puts these cards back in the deck and "resets" probability.

I really wouldn't worry about Wyrd ruining the game with cultural stereotypes. I don't think anyone is asking for entire factions based on specific cultures/countries.

I can't speak for everyone else, but when I express a desire for something stereotypical like "ninjas" I don't just mean plain old history as we know it ninjas. I respect Wyrd enough to assume they would create something comparable that references our idea of a ninja, but at the same time interesting and unique to the world they've created. Take the opposing clan and its boss from Twisting Fates, very unique, but at the same time very eastern in feel/design.

This game is built on stereotypes, or at least the mish-mashing together of them. Personally, I'd like even more obvious cultural/historical references in the game, whether its fashion, race, or whatever. I like being reminded that these individuals come from earth, maybe not our earth, but earth none the less. Its these references to the world that we know that make the differences Wyrd throws in all the more interesting. Otherwise, you've just got another ambiguous steampunk fantasy world.

I think people have to realise that every model is worth its points value, just simply what you use it for and if you know how.

Every time I see this sentiment expressed on the forum I can't help but imagine the Malifaux Child sitting all by himself crying.

Less balance/game size/Warmachine used to be better (it was) discussion, and more Misaki/Kung-Fu/Ninja awesomeness discussion please.

They would definately be one 50mm base.

I would also like to see a Kung Fu acupuncturist like Wong Fei-Hung from The Once Upon a Time in China trilogy. And the Shinigami Ryuk and Rem from the Deathnote franchise.

Haven't seen those, but I've heard good things. There's a character named Tesshu in Tenchu: Wrath of Heaven that kills with acupuncture needles. Village doctor by day, assassin by night. His stealth kill cut scenes are ridiculous (you can probably find them on youtube). You are basically shown an x-ray of the enemies insides as Tesshu breaks, snaps, rearranges, or inserts needles into them.

Yes.

What?

No.

I think I recall the post(s) Kadeton is referring to. Are these the ones?

When you are attacked, you Resolve Damage. Damage Resolution is the whole process from being hit to you models Wound Total being changed. In the Damage Resolution Phase you

• Work out how much Dg the Weapon has caused. including triggers and other bonuses.
  
• You take that value and modify it with Armour and Spirit etc. This gives you the final Dg total.
  
• You then change Dg to Wds.
  
• It's at this point you prevent Wds by spending soulstones.
  
• Any Wds remaining are applied to the model.
  

At the end of the Damage Resolution Phase any Wounds Taken is the amount of Damage a attack has caused. Even if this total is 0 Damage, the attack counts as damaging as it has went through the Damage Resolution Phase.

If a Black Joker is flipped for damage, "No Damage" is Caused and therefore Damage Resolution never happens and effects that work on Damaging therefore do nothing.

When you lower damage with Prevention, IE. by spending a Soulstone, if there are no Wounds left after Prevention you also count as having caused "No Damage" and the Damage Resolution is interupted and effects that work on Damaging do nothing.

Yep, I can't see how my post could be read another way. On Damage/Damaging comes into effect at the end of damage resolution. So blight counters would be put on the model much to late to effect that damage resolution.

---------- Post added at 10:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 PM ----------

I think the best way to think of things is to totally separate Damage and Dg in your mind.

• Damage is the result of a completed Damage Resolution.
  
• Dg is a value that is used in the early stages of Damage Resolution.
  

They're specific to attack resolution, but I see a possible relation. Basically, if it's Dg, Wd, then Damage, is it also Wd, then Damage when the attack/Dg portion is skipped? If Wds become damage and Freikorps armor ignores damage, does it ignore things like Industrial Nightmare?

Is that what you're getting at?

http://puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=9

I saw these and thought of this thread. They would make good counts-as Stitched Togethers (the buzzsaw one might need some converting).

Hope this helps!