Bruglyother

Honestly Mako, I think they should go in as the totems due to their size.  So Lizzie as Student, Jack as CCK, and Eric will still be a desperate merc.

I was thinking the other day about trying to modify your work to either work for or incorporate the puppetwars models as they are probably a huge contributor to my backlog.  I'm actually afraid to do so though as I don't want to see how badly they effect it.  I also don't really have the full motivation to put in that kind of work.  What can I say, I am a bum.

And who could pass up that price tag!

Greetings all,

A request has been made for me to meet with some people at The Game Gamut in Victor, NY for a demo of Malifaux.  We will be getting together Saturday, March 1st form 6-10 PM during which time I will be continually demoing the game to any interested parties.  So, if you have an interest, and live in the area, come check it out.

The Game Gamut

86 W Main St

Victor, NY  14564

585-398-7145

I had no problem drilling the Torakage I did .  Any of them.  But I have admitted time and again that I am a bit nuts when it comes to pinning.  I did pin my steam arachnid spider legs.

Sadly Even when I start with 7, I always seem to be down to 0 before the start of Turn 2.

The part that has been amusing us locally is this scenario:

Player 1, "I'm burning a soulstone."

Player 2, "What are you burning it for."

Player 1, "Because I want the Jelly bean."

One note:  For soulstones you will often see people using small glass stones, but I have discovered something even better.  Jelly Beans.

Peacekeeper.  It is several layers of cork, but I put work into blending the layers together by pulling bits of here and there.

As for the pin, the others pretty much covered it.  I tend to put a big pin through one foot and the whole base, and then a small pin in the other foot that just goes in a bit to keep the model from turning in any way.  I use heavier pins than most, as mine are steel rod rather than floral wire, but it is a preference thing.  I also pretty much pin anything metal, and at least the contact between the model and base for plastics.  The peacekeeper has at least 10 pins in him that I can remember.

I have used both super glue and PVA glue.  I do tend to run a pin through my bases though, so that might be adding strength.  Others may have other opinions.

Yes, the cork is usually a bit soft.  You will have to harden it.  Get it all glued together the way you want it on the base.  Once that is done, you will need to paint it with a 1:1 mix of water and PVA glue.  I will usually put on 2 coats, but sometimes I will use more for larger pieces.  Once that is done, prime and paint as normal.

An example of my work.

Damn you, stealing my base idea that you had no way of knowing I had. That first Waldegeist is based almost exactly how I have mine set up.

Great as usual.  Sometimes the simplest painting can give the best results.

On a side note, what the hell happened to the old emoticons.  I miss the Ratty sets.

I have to say I am one who falls squarely in the middle. I tried to think about which one I would give up if I was forced to to decide, and realized that if I gave up one, the other would go too.

I've played all sorts of games over the years. Tried Heroclix at one point figuring not having to paint might make it more fun. (Back then I was a gamer.) But I quickly got bored until I started re-painting the minis. I've also done classic Battletech, and spent a lot of time painting the miniatures, but quickly got bored there as no one locally really plays it. So yeah, I have to say I am squarely in the middle.

I am curious how you plan to handle avatars since they are now upgrades. Going to load them in as masters; counts for models, but not for stones? Or will you give them the upgrade cost as the stones?

Also:

Total: 225 models, 1194 soulstones across 19 masters in 7 factions. 53% painted

Little disappointed in myself. When I first loaded stuff up, I was at 92% painted. I told my self I should keep it above 70% to avoid the model backlog issue. I seem to have failed miserably at that goal. Plus, as my model count goes up, individual models have less impact on the percentage, so painting a model means less. Trying to keep myself on a buying hiatus until I get some work done. (Still failing as I just picked up 4 models last night.)

Wording is pretty clear that auras and pulses may not originate within 3 ".

Date had to change due to the lock in being canceled for February. So, the invasion of the Lock-in is being moved to March. Still hope to see many people there.

Greeting good gentles.  It is time for Millennium Games to have their monthly Lock-in event, and we are invading.  We plan to be up all night (or at least until we have had enough), playing Malifaux, Evil baby orphanage, maybe puppet wars, and other board games as interest strikes us.  This is not a set format event, just come on down to have some fun.

We are asking $10 as entry.  The bulk of this will be used for Pizza around midnight, and donuts in the morning.  What is not used for these purposes will go towards a small raffle.

Gather time will be 6pm. End time will be whenever we have had enough.

So please, come join us.  Bring your crews.  Bring your puppets (especially if you have a usable set as none of us have one ready to go yet.)  Bring any other game that strikes your fancy.

Location:

Millennium Games

3047 West Henrietta Road

Rochester, New York 14623

(585) 427-2190

For me it has less to do with the size of the model and more to do with how organic it is.  Give me a nice robot, and I can paint it pretty fast (as I have been doing with my Hoffman crew lately.)  A humanoid takes longer because there are mor organic parts to deal with.  Even so, I think I fall in the "way too long" category.

I do spend way more time on my basing though.  Espescially lately.  They just seem to get more elaborate as they go along. 

Was going through the new file, bringing myself up to date, and discovered you are missing Santanna in the Guilg section.

Uh guys, I think the OP is looking for advice on how to better play Pandora.

And I loved the Narrative. Unfortunately, Pandora is outside my experience.

Thanks for reminding me Brian. No real digging required.

50% coverage before spread!

After spread.

Pre-spread

Post spread.

I know we did these types of pictures with a few other setups, but these are the ones I have handy. You can see we use a good mix of terrain, which gives a nice variety once spread out.

As for attaching, I would think a small pin in the base with the tumbleweed pushed down onto it with some glue should hold it fairly well. The durability issue would depend on how tight of a tumbleweed you want. If you want a loose packed one like you see in many old movies, you may have some issues making it durable. If you go for something more tight to give the tumbleweed effect, then the scrubby idea could work, or some glue hardened clump foliage.

Our group plays closer to the 50% end of the spectrum. We make sure to include large, and small pieces. We also make sure to use some 0 ht terrain (such as rough fields, rivers, ponds, etc.) If you do not have a good mix of terrain types, going for the lower to mid range is not so bad as it is often hard to pull off 50% is all you have is GW buildings to work with. But if that is the case, it is also a good idea to improve your collection.

Check out Bunraku. Quite fun and has that slightly surreal feel. I did enjoy the Warrior's Way. These are the ones that come to mind right now in my sleep addled state.

Don't forget about your 0 ht terrain. Bogs, rivers, ponds, farm fields, etc. These are often overlooked. They are a great way to increase your terrain density without forcing channels or adversely effecting ranged crews. Using 0 ht terrain, my local greoup often gets to the 50% coverage without having any issues. Even small pieces can work as scatter terrain. We have a couple of small (50 mil square) bases of rocky field. Does not block line of sight, but can severely disrupt a charge lane.

You could go with static for the main pieces, and have a bunch of smaller pieces being modular. Malifaux is not all about the big terrain. So, you could set up your basic buildings in static positions, but have obstructions and such for variety.

Ex: A turned over cart

A pile of rocks

A hanging cage

A bonfire

A fountain

A statue (broken or intact)

etc.....

This gives you a bit of both options, with a blending of the pros and cons.

Greetings. I hope everyone has had a good set of Holidays. I thought we should have an event to wrap them all up. So, Sunday, January 5th at Pair A Dice games, I will be holding the Holiday Challenge event. What is a Holiday challenge event you ask? Well, that is a mighty good question. The Holiday challenge event will be a giant, multiplayer, story encounter. This will not be a win/lose event, although there will be a way to track scores for bragging rights. There will also be a raffle during the day, with tickets being handed out for events during the game, as well as for any other reason I decide. There will also be treats. In fact, there might be something special about them.

So, come join us. $5 gets you in the event. Gathering time will be noon, with the actual game starting between 12:30 and 1 pm. Don't worry if you can't make it til later. There will be rules for entering late (or again if you get destroyed.)

Event breakdown:

Where - Pair-A-Dice Games LLC

274 N. Goodman Street

Rochester, New York 14607

(585) 442-8506

When - January 5th from noon til 6

Fee - $5

What - Massive Multiplayer Malifaux Story event

Feel free to contact me with questions.

Don't forget about Tara's -2 Wp aura, or Karina's "test or take damage" aura. Both key off of fast.