harbinger

ok the bad news, good news, bad news...

Bad: the test was a total failure for what you are wanting to do.

that is after 16 hours drying time and the caulking was still too wet.

Good: I did learn what wanted to know though and know how I would do it if producing as a commercial product. Changing to a latex mixture and using a modified reverse screen printing method. Im calling this a proof of concept, it would definitely work and give a nice result.

Here is the negative I made out home brew molding rubber recipe I use when prototyping. Time and effort wasnt put in to it as this was just a real fast test to confirm what I already figured.

Bad: Final result... what your wanting to do is impractical from a DIY perspective. The time and expense will become prohibitive when compared to just buying a suitable product.

Ooooh. What kind of terrain?

massed produced versions of type that I did before by hand. See threads for idea

http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?36564-crapy-pics-of-terrain-lt-image-heavy-gt

http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?48484-practice-building-styles

First round will be western style and a latex textured mat. Next round will be a more Victorian styled city set.

Will be doing a cloud funding startup in few days. Just secured rights to a balsa farm for next 5 years, so I will be able to produce buildings way cheaper then whats currently out there in MDF.

sorry that have been slow to respond, my partner and me have been extremely busy preparing for terrain business launch.

as update... I prepared a cobble like surface to mold from and and mixed up some home brew molding rubber. Soon as my negative dries I will attempt an idea I have. Should have an answer before the night is out.

as side note... the paint roller idea sounds great in theory; practicality not so much. Does not leave good impressions, the caulk is going to stick to it despite any release agent used (if the caulk is wet enough to take a imprint it will be too sticky) and you will never get it lined up.

My brain storming is pretty much in line with you... I've got some ideas as to how to deal with all of the above, but I don't have a way to imprint the pattern to begin with. If I can find a practical way of doing that, only then with there be a point to trying to answer the issues raised above.

-DavicusPrime

actually you got me thinking about it now. Got an idea and in few minutes going head to store and grab some stuff to try fix the release issue. If get results I want.. Ill move to the next issue

**********************************************************

running test.. will report back tomorrow results

Ive actually tried similar to what you are thinking about.... was a disaster. Ive yet to find a release agent that will effectively work with caulking. There is also other inherent problems with it...

would have to do it in steps, as having a big enough "mold" would be impractical and lining it up is going to be a pain.

Assuming you got around the other two issues.... I have serious doubts the cobble stone pattern will hold up to rolling the map up. Yes it works with semi equal thickness of a normal terrain layer, but with the differences caused by the troughs between the stones, I see very high probability of cracks forming. And not the "it gives it character" type cracks.

Those were done by an 11 year old? That is a talented kid!

He pretty much did it all on his own. The only time I stepped in was to demonstrate the wet brushing for the upscale one, and to give example for distressing when comes to the dilapidated version.

Most likely it will be a commercial guide to go along with gaming/terrain biz Im about to start. On my way back home now from a overseas meeting with some manufactures.

Friend asked me to send him some pics I took of buildings his son did as a test for guide Im making for western scenery. Figured while at it might as well post them here. These was done by a 11 y/o with no prior experience so have mercy guys

standard upscale technique

layered technique

the budget technique.. foam and cereal box

standard technique

dilapidated planks

been looking for a challenge....

I really like the look of those Zuzzy mats. I'm reluctant to get one because they contain latex, which my wife is allergic to. Anyone know if it would be safe for her to play on one that's been painted and varnished?

Theres a lot of "ifs" to the answer. Would all depend on how her immune system reacts to the allergenic. Personally I would not take the risk unless its just an "annoying" response.

Strip them?

Is it always the way...

Been working on something similar for possible production for last couple days then come here and see this...

If want simple do it yourself, check out my last post in..

http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread...088#post606088

So the last one will take stuff like the slate ridge mauler and nekima?

yes it will. You will need to pluck a form around them to leave support for things like Nekima wings.

As others has said... the foam in the Mali case is harder then Id like it to been (rubs paint off.) But I love my case for the who "representing" factor.

First layer, all rows are slotted for "ht2"

Second layer, one row "ht2" rest "ht1"

Thrid layer, solid pluck foam 1.5inch cubes and 3 cubes deep

For US sources...I've found some various 'gear' type packs that look useful at A.C.Moore and Michael's in the jewelry or scrapbooking section. There are a few lines of bits and pieces out there that look steampunky and hold promise. Its also not a bad place to look to find various chains and other supplies

Dave

yeah have some them but I hoard them because they metal and price can add up. Id like get some plastic ones that can be little less discriminate on what I use them for.

Awesome work mythicFox. I need track down a US supplier for those gears.

check out my last post in thread

http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?46039-Making-a-dance-floor-base&p=606088#post606088

might help you

ok have thought about it and decided to go with something I seen people talk about a few times. Will be news on it soon...

Either WIP photos or announcement Im swinging from the hanging tree once realize bite off something way to ambitious....

Ok, gotten the "western town" down; and now need to challenge myself with something new. Was going do a swamp board but meh.. too common.

So what would you guys like to see done? Throw some ideas and Ill see what catches my eye to run with.

*********************************************

Also been thinking, to motivate myself to actually get something done...

Anyone interested in maybe an unofficial terrain building contest? Nothing fancy, just something to motivate us builders that was born natural procrastinators and give the community some eye candy.

I would think that if Castrol works on metal and plastic, it should work well on resin as well.

could very well but resin is tricky. Test on bottom of the mini first cause not all resin mixtures the same. A cleaner that works on one mix will soften the next.

I see Mephiston mentioned youd have to order it, but if do simple green has been tested by enough us that you have zero worry of damage and works great.

This thread did not go in the direction I expected.

Actually I never intended the "" around things.. for some reason smartphones auto correct did it without me noticing. The accusations may be true.. but when your phone ratting you out, guess good time to upgrade to next model.

So, have a neighbor thats a single mom and we do "things" for each other from time to time. few nights ago she told me her daughter had a school project coming up and needed to build an civil war scene; since knew I tinkered around with scenery, she was hoping I could help a bit. Not a problem and over last couple nights project finished up.

So today I was cleaning up the scraps when happened look over at my hobby shelf, which the minis just sitting there looked plain and boring. Had hot wire and left over styrofoam in my hand... With out even realizing what was doing I had the following about 5 mins latter.

Yeah pics was crappy but this is just an inspirational thing. The actual one will be planned, painted and laid out better. It just struck me how easy it would be to toss together some displays for my minis at the house. Thinking about doing about 3-4 different backdrops to match different crews laid into the shelves.

Anyone else go to the trouble or am I thinking too much into it?

Had a moment to spare so Lilith agreed to model and give you an idea of sizing on the door.

first shot against a 1.5 inch door. Compared to mini height door would be about right, do to base her head comes up almost flush with top door, but when gaming you wont notice and will look fine.

Now you wanted go 2inch.. this next shot shows a doorway just a hair over 1.75inch. So gives you idea how door will look at 2inch. If your going for realistic at all, your measurement will look too big on a normal door. Now if your not going for semi realistic and going for a more "comic" look (which does match the art style of lot Mali minis..) go for it. Its your terrain, build it to make yourself happy and to hell with anyone elses opinion.

*******************************************************

We have tried few optional rules using doors. Things like opening or closing a door cost an ap (also tried a inch of movement as cost) and came to conclusion it bogs things down and not worth effort. Game flow > realism. We find its best to just pretend door not actually there. You will have to eye ball LOS if model inside building and standing at edge the door frame. Your going get all kinds arguments..." Im behind the wall and can reach out with my gun and still shoot but they cant shoot me..." Just put a stop to that before even begins. Common sense rule.. if you can get line sight to them.. they can get it back.

As far as base sizes... we found it easier to rule that even if size too large for door they can stoop, turn sideways, whatever to get in. Hey.. they been living with thier sizes they used to getting around. We played with penalties for them going in (realistic) but in end decided it just bogged things down and gave unfair advantages. You also dont want rule the mature neph cant follow the guild guardsman inside the door due to base size blah blahblah. Trust me it leads to problems.

Keep in mind, while adding deapth to combat sounds good; it slows things down and once again gives unfair advantages

I guess that was kinda what I'm looking for ... I want to "standardize" my terrain a bit so that human or shorter figures would fit through but larger wouldn't. Afterall you don't build your house so that the 12' monstrousity can come over for tea and cake.

So if I built the door 2" x 1 1/4" (sorry original post was incorrect) would this allow most figures to "pass through". I realize basing may change that.

Or do you just make an assumption that if there is a door that a human figure or shorter can easily pass through but larger figures can't, regardless of the actual size of the door.

everyone is going have own taste but your size is going be too large if is just a single door.