dahli.llama
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Posts posted by dahli.llama
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Hehe, I had never even considered LEGOS for Malifaux other than as terrain.
I've got a 1 gallon bucket of minifigs, so I may need to complete the guild crews now
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Received mine!
Thanks a bunch!
Also, sent out to mine as well!
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Any suggestions for what kind of oil to use?
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Same here. Bought a couple of W&N and the extra price was WELL worth it. Been using the same brush for about 18 months (about 30 miniatures painted, give or take) and the point is as sharp as when I bought it. In my experience, they are a good investment.
I also use that brush cleaner and I also use a conditioner. The good brushes are hair, after all.
Windsor & Newton Series 7 brushes are definitely worth it.
I used to struggle with the cheap $3 synthetics, but they's last one to two sessions before the tip was curled and they'd barely hold a point. With the S7, I've used the same #2 brush for the majority of this year and it was still perfect up until about a week ago. I use that Masters Brush cleaner after every session.
Now a question, like I said, my #2 was fine up until about a week ago. Now, though, I'm not able to get as good of a point with it, and it tends to splay a bit if I'm not constantly wetting it. Is there anything I can do to recover this one, or is it time for a replacement?
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I'm in for this!
Love the whole Secret Santa thing
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I hope that thing isn't all metal. I can't imagine how her arms would support that.
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It seems to me that a circus tent would really dominate most of the terrain on a 3'x3' board. Unless you were going for more of a carnival atmosphere with a lot of small tents holding individual attractions. In which case you'd need some form of "Funhouse"
As for the Circus, I think doing an entire table up as the interior of a Big Top tent with a full three ring circus setup in there would be fun. One could hold a wild animal cage; another, the acrobats and such, while the third would house the $$$$$$$$$$$$. There would be bleachers for the audience and all sorts of stuff to get in the way.
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Very cool!
I just started some work on my own sewer board. I love the pipes, and I may have to borrow the idea.
Also, how did you do the bands around the pipes?
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For what it's worth, I don't think this is entirely true, and if you're having THAT much trouble with your computer, I suggest doing a defragmentation, and probably an ad-ware/spy-ware wipe. My laptop is only a 2.5 Ghz machine with 2 GB of RAM, which is really not that impressive in today's terms. The laptop is almost 2 years old. I use the PDF CONSTANTLY during the day whenever I'm on the forums here. The only time I use the physical hard copy Rules Manual is when I'm actually at the LGS playing games. And even then, it wouldn't be that much slower for me to jump to the index in the Rules Manual (Pg 108, I've memorized it :thumb: ), and then quickly find the info that I'm looking for.
Maybe my experience is different from others, but I figure if a 2 year old laptop (which are typically slower than most desktops) can run the PDF fine, that I think the 'relatively powerful PC' type comments are a bit of an exaggeration.
It's usable, but it is still considerably slower loading each page compared to a standard flattened PDF.
That still doesn't address the fact that it is completely unusable on any kind of portable reader like a smartphone or e-reader. I have managed to create a low-res version that is about 1/6 the size and will work on my Nook, but it would still have been nice to have that option without resorting to using GIMP and saving each page to a doc manually.
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Can we please bring this back to the original topic, or just be done with the thread?
All the OP and the majority of posters want is a usable PDF file. Printable would be a nice bonus, but I can understand why that is not feasible.
Right now, in its current state, the PDF is only able to be opened on a relatively powerful PC. The file is huge, and the layers make it very clunky when reading. Even on my laptop it takes much longer to move between pages than on my desktop. On my Nook and my smartphone it is completely unusable.
I own both original books and the Rules Manual, along with crews from all factions except Neverborn, it's not like I'm trying to get away with something for nothing. I'd just like the product to be usable. As it is, the PDF would be akin to a book with a chain holding it to a single desk. It works, but isn't exactly convenient.
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For paints, I've been using GW paints mostly (their Foundation, washes and metalics are awesome) due to them being the most convenient to get for me. That said, i have a few bottles of Vallejo that I do like, and some Reaper Model Series paints. I can't really say any one brand is better than the others in general, and I tend to just get whatever is cheaper unless there's a specific color I need to replicate.
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I would really like to see a more manageable version of the PDF as well. I own a Nook color and I was very excited to be able to put a copy of the rules onto that for reference, but in the current format it is completely unreadable. It literally takes 4-5 minutes to load each page, and even then it doesn't always load them completely.
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I keep a constantly rotating stock of models for painting to fit my mood. I am currently working on a Space Wolf army for 40k, I have Guild and Resurrectionist crews that are in progress, a Sorylian fleet and now a Menoth army that I'm starting on.
That and my desk also houses my gaming PC, so if I'm not in the mood to paint, I'll fire up WoW for a bit.
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Blog:
Username: Dahli.Llama
Website: Meandering the Dune Sea
Description: Painting, Battle Reports, Warhammer 40k, Malifaux, Space Wolves, Eldar, Tau, Guild, Outcasts, Resurectionists
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Living in North Dakota, my evenings during the winter are definitely hobby oriented.
I play World of Warcraft occasionally, but lately most of my evenings after the kids are in bed have been dedicated to painting Malifaux stuff or working on my new Space Wolves army. It all depends on my mood and trying to avoid getting burnt out on a project.
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A handheld dremel tool makes pinning go a lot faster.
I pin almost all my joints these days. The difference is remarkable.
Be careful with a dremel, though. It's too easy to drill trough something or slip and scar some other part.
I only started pinning things about 6 month ago. Before I had a lot of trouble with superglue. Many things needed multiple applications before things finally stuck. Pinning made a HUGE difference. Things are so much easier now and the joints are so much stronger.
Just be careful and go slowly. Get the smallest bit you can find. I use a #60 bit that is perfect because it's just a tiny bit larger than a standard small paperclip. So I can get pins easily and cheaply. Mark the location to pin with an X using a hobby knife so you don't slip and drill in the wrong place.
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Here are some pictures of the WWG Village Works building that I put together. It was scaled up to 150% of standard, and it honestly is a bit too big in my opinion.
Looking at the 100% scaled buildings, a single floor is about the height of a standard model, and the doors are about 10mm too short.
I'm thinking that a scale of about 125% is in order.
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By upscaling you mean: making smaller buildings? I can confirm that the buildings are a bit big as they are, but to be honest, this is nit-picking.
I actually meant, making bigger buildings. Or at least bigger textures on the walls.
I printed off two copies of one of the wall sections with doors to test. One was printed at the normal scale and the other was printed at 150%.
The door on the 100% wall is about 3mm shorter than my gun-Viktoria model if measured from her feet. If measuring from her base, then the door is about 10mm too short.
The door on the 150% wall is about 10mm taller than Viktoria if measured from the bottom of her base.
So it looks like the Thoumont's building should be scaled up 125% to really fit the characters.
Everything I've read suggests that the WorldWorks stuff is done in a 1 inch = 6 feet scale. And since Malifaux models are at about a 1.5 inch = 6 feet scale it made sense to go up 150%. I tried that with one of their Village Works buildings and it looks pretty good.
I don't plan on making a single large building with this either. I want to make a cohesive looking town with multiple buildings and this looks to be a good way to do it.
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Inspired by all this, I just picked up the Thoumonts TLX set from WorldWorks. I'm not sure if I'll use the TerraLinx stuff, of if I'll just build individual buildings. One thing I need to check is the scale. I'm pretty sure the buildings will need to be scaled up to work with the Malifaux models.
Regardless, I've go my supplies ready and I have a week off from work for the holidays. Hopefully I'll be able to spend some time and get some nice stuff put together.
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Wonderful stuff Sholto. You're a constant inspiration.
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Thanks for the clarifications.
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I'm planning on expanding my Resser group next, so I'm thinking that Kirai will be my next master. Though Colette is a very tempting proposition.
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I just posted part 1 of a very high level introduction to Malifaux over on my blog. It's really just an overview for some friends and family that have never played the game and have been asking me about it a bit. I didn't really want to go into a lot of detail about the mechanics of the game, at least not in the first part.
If you'd care to read it and provide any comments you can do so here: http://rkik.wordpress.com/2010/12/02/what-is-malifaux-part-1/
Hobby Table Crews
in Malifaux Discussion
Posted
Ummm....
Sonia Criid
2 Witchlings
Samael
Lawyer
3 Mindless Zombies
3 Punk Zombies
Nicodemus
Mortimer
2 Death Marshals
Executioner
Guild Watcher
Ryle
3 Ice Gamin
Rasputina
Collette
2 Performers and Manequins
Misaki
Plus a bunch of Necrons and Space Wolves.
Obviously I need to paint more