Anfalas Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 So I've got it into my head to build a gaming table for use with Warhammer 40K and Malifaux. I've got the theme all sorted and everything, but I'm not sure how to start. The theme I'm going for is an icy wasteland, but I'm leaning towards creating a mountainous field, like Caradhras (from the Lord of the Rings, if anyone remembers), so the board will be a bit heavy, I imagine. So I'd love to hear some suggestions! Basing tips, terrain ideas, advice on details, anything! Would a modular solution would be feasible for such a thing? Maybe a 1'x2' section for the mountain and 1'x1' sections around it. As for actually basing, how do you guys manage? A layer of MDF or plywood beneath the block of foam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterDisaster Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 For my Malifaux board I used some 18mm Birch Ply that I "Liberated" from a skip at work and cut it down into 4x 18'x18' sections so it would be less cumbersome to transport. I then covered the surface with a couple of layers of a product very similar to Febond Blue Grit (http://www.everbuild.co.uk/febondbluegrit) which is a plasterers primer used to give smooth surfaces a rough texture to apply plaster too. It gave a nice textured surface which can them be primed and painted to taste. The stuff sets like concrete and is incredibly resilient. As I was going with a desert theme I decided to use a pinky base boat and then drybrushed a bone colour masonry paint just to add an additional layer of protection. After this I thinned some earthy yellow oil paint with white spirits and used it as a wash to cover the surface and finally coated the whole lot in matt varnish to protect the board's surface and edges. In the end it came out rather nicely and the effect looks great where the Blue Grit gave an uneven texture, the only thing I'd do differently next time is reduce the thickness of the ply and maybe even go with MDF as my 18mm boards weigh quite a bit! I've not got my terrain for the board sorted yet but I'm sure I could get a picture up at some point for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anfalas Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Interesting. So you basically just used the birch ply as a solid base? Pictures would be fantastic, if you don't mind! I love seeing people's work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterDisaster Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Yeah that's exactly what I did, it was my first ever attempt at a gaming table so I wanted to keep it simple. It does create a completely flat surface but for a desert dust town/excavation site it kind of works out nicely. I'll get the board out tonight and take a picture or two for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyboy30672 Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 That sounds really extraordinary, actually. I'd love to see this, too! I have thought about getting into making terrain or a board for Malifaux, too, just because the old Spaghetti Western/steampunk feel really intrigues me about this game. Rather than another old ruined castle or dilapidated graveyard, I think it's a brilliant scenic depart from terrain building! And I'm all about stealing other people's ideas... Heh heh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anfalas Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Fantasic, thank you! Also; Can anyone educate me as to how to cut extruded foam cleanly without having to buy one of those tiny little hot wire cutters? >< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgraz Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Fantasic, thank you! Also; Can anyone educate me as to how to cut extruded foam cleanly without having to buy one of those tiny little hot wire cutters? >< You could conceivably do straight lines with one of those razor knives with the break away blades...because they extend long enough to cut through. However, it's virtually impossible to get a perfect 90 degree cut. You can do messy breaks like for cliffs and such easily enough, but a clean cut......hot cutter is the only real choice I'm aware of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anfalas Posted March 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 You could conceivably do straight lines with one of those razor knives with the break away blades...because they extend long enough to cut through. However, it's virtually impossible to get a perfect 90 degree cut. You can do messy breaks like for cliffs and such easily enough, but a clean cut......hot cutter is the only real choice I'm aware of. Ah, fair enough. I discovered a hot knife tool that could conceivably do the trick, so I might give that a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterDisaster Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Unfortunately guys I wasn't able to take a picture of my table oveer the weekend. It turns out the Mrs has decided to bury my boards and terrain in the attic so I'll get up there this evening to dig them out and take a pic or two to show you. Failing that I might have a picture from before I finished it. Either way I'll get something up ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddy4count Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 I used 1-inch isulation foam... two pieces glued together and then glued inside a frame of 1x2 pine. Then topped that off with glue and sand. I have pics at home, just need to post them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistercactus Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Cutting square: I glued insulation foam to mdf board, leaving an overhang. Then I used an extendible knife to trim the foam square with the edges of the mdf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 If you have a hot knife then getting straight edges isn't that difficult. One good trick is to use 2 steel carpentry squares clamped together. This will keep the hot wire (or knife blade if you sprung for the better knives) true along the entire line. As for basing material it is difficult to beat 18" (or 12" if you want smaller features or more versatility) floor tiles for modular boards. I have made quite a few utilizing that method along with my other quick tables method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterDisaster Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 So as promised here are a couple of pictures of the results on my gaming board, I only took pictures of one of the 4 sections but it should give you an idea of how it turned out - Apologies for picture quality! This is a closer view of the texture, it does look a little less yellow in real life but poor lighting and an iPhone don't mix! Bear in mind this was my first ever attempt but the method used seems pretty sound. I may go back and tone down the colours on the board to make them a little more earthy but it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I can post up some pictures of my "floor tile boards" that have more vertical detail and variety if desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anfalas Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 @MasterDisaster: Thanks for the pictures, it looks fantastic. @OmenBringer: Thanks for the tip. I've been tossing up between a wire cutter and a hot knife, but given the shallow depth that wire cutters seem to have I've been leaning more towards the knife as it seems a hell of a lot more versatile. As for basing, I think I'm going to go with 10mm plywood boards to give it that extra bit of strength. I'd love to see what your board looks like though! And uh, @Daddy4Count and @MisterCactus? I hope you realise that your answers were not for my question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 If you are going to go with a knife then I highly recommend either of these (the "Pro" or the "Crafters"); http://www.craftershotknife.com/Hot_Knives.html They are a bit pricey but absolutely amazing (plus they double as a home defense weapons!). As for pics of my stuff, well here you go; Each of the tiles is based on a 18" x 18" ceramic floor tile then dressed with 1/2"- 1" blue insulation foam. The texture is my home blend two coat system. I can repost the recipe in this thread if you want. The only thing I do differently now is work the tiles smooth side down (these were down smooth side up and can be hard on underlying surfaces). 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalikAtar Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I have a board that I built on 2x2 foam tiles used for workout spaces. You can get ones that will make a 4x4 floor section at places like ROSS for really cheap. Some of them are pretextured but you can use the Caulking method on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistercactus Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 @Anfalas: I'm TERRIBLY sorry I misread cutting cleanly for cutting square, since this is a common problem people have. You are SO right to make fun of a stranger for attempting to help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ataraxianj Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I enjoy using zuzzy matts, the only problem is that they take forever to ship. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entropolous Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 If you can find one the game board for the now defunct ex illis is phenomenal. 20 9x9 inch molded plastic tiles with a nice amount of detail. Because they are 9x9 you end up with a 4x4 grid with a centerpoint and centerline seams and flank deployment seams. After playing one one of these, I would highly recommend making 9x9 tiles if you are looking at making a modular board. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 I built a 3' square swamp board, using blue foam backed onto 18" x 18" MDF boarrds. This thread has WIP photos and build details as well as finished shots - http://wyrd-games.net/community/topic/95468-modular-swamp-board-finished/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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